Yeah if there's glitter in the pan the engine is toast. Usually a spun bearing. I would definitely get a second opinion though.

Ok im gonna have someone come check it out today and hopefully this is mystery solved! I do have one question though. So I have a stock engine with super low miles but it's from an automatic transmission g35, if I take the low milage cylinder block and put it in the 6spd, would that fix the issue? ( if it's confirmed to be a spun bearing) also if that was what I'd need to do to fix it what parts would I need to use from the 6spd to make it so the computer won't trip out on me. I know I've asked about it before but I can't remember exactly what the answer I got was lol. I think someone said I would need to use the 6spd oil pump/timing chain case and timing chain parts/cylinder head/ and to re-ring the pistons because i might as well if I need to rebuild it like that. Please lmk if I missed something (:

Yeah the short block (main rotating part minus the heads and timing and intake) is the same except for the oil pump and the baffle in the pan. Make sure everything gets inspected thoroughly if you go that route though. If there is metal in the oil then it's been worked through EVERY part of the motor so it would need to be thoroughly cleaned, new bearings, disassemble and clean the cam actuators, etc. Anything that the oil touched would be contaminated.

So wait, would that mean I'd need to take apart the cylinder head to clean it? It kinda sounded like you were saying I need to take the cylinder block apart to clean as well. I feel confident enough to clean and reinstall the camshaft area and timing chain stuffs but if I had to take the cylinder head apart things could get dicey :( is there any way to clean it without taking it apart? If I have to take it off the engine to do so that's fine with me also. And the baffle is the microphone looking thing in the oil pan right? What's different about the 2?

Would it be a better option to have the 2 extra cam sensor holes machined into the cylinder heads I have from the automatic? That one never had any kind of contamination in the oil

is there any way to find out why the starter is cranking so slow? i would hate to tear the engine down to swap the blocks only to have the same issue and no working cars

I think having a professional mechanic diagnose your car for 50 bucks will save u a lot of time and trouble.

A spun bearing would not necessarily prevent the engine from starting. It would sound like it wants to start and then die, or it will start and if you run it for a few minutes it will finally seize the motor. The grounds are very important. Make sure ALL the grounds throughout the engine compartment are clean and free of corrosion. How long does it crank before the battery dies? Sometimes a weak battery will not provide the proper cranking amps to rotate the engine fast enough to start it even if it is a fully charged battery. You may want to take the battery and have it load tested at a battery shop. Inspect the heavy battery cables for any damage along their entire length and at the terminal connections. Broken cable strands will prevent full ampere flow to the starter and ground. You have not mentioned any codes present, indicating a mechanical issue. Check timing chain and timing chain tensioner(sort of a long shot, but anything is possible)

theres no codes. just the CEL. so that means that something internally is messed up and preventing the engine from starting?

Ok you didn't say anything about a CEL before, if it's on then there is definitely a code being stored.

every scanner i hook up gives no codes tho? is this one of those codes that only a consult-II system can see? that would mean i dont have a choice but to tow it to the dealership then?

where is the "E" terminal on the alternator?

im looking at the FSM right now and it looks like this bonding jumper you're talking about is supposed to connect to the alternator also? the schematic makes it look like one of the wires of the bonding jumper is supposed to connect to terminal "E". I have no idea where that is tho and the FSM literally doesnt show its location

Was the CEL on when the engine was running? If you can't start it, how do you know the CEL is on? Turning the key to key on-engine off lights all the warning lights on the dash. Following this thread from the beginning, I am willing to bet it's a crank and/or cam sensor. Carefully check the crank sensor connector and wire harness. Being under the vehicle it is prone to damage and corrosion. Was any work done to the vehicle just before it stopped running? Were there any performance or rough idle issues prior to this?

@ashleytea666 Have you checked your fuel pressure? I'm having a similar problem... gonna make a post soon. Have you tried letting your fuel pump prime before turning the ignition?

Edit: Nevermind... I saw you checked fuel pressure.