ive already checked fuel,compression, spark and all of them seem to be fine. it sounds like its struggling hard to crank even a little bit. the starter is brand new and the cable from the battery is good.

 

Charge the battery just to rule it out. Pull a spark plug after cranking and see if it's wet.

I'm betting your tach doesn't move when cranking though which indicates a failed crank sensor, replace with a Genuine Nissan or Hitachi sensor.

 

Battery is is charged, and spark plugs are dry. You're right about the tach. not moving though. Um if the crank sensor is bad would I be able to see the RPM's while cranking on a scanner even if I can't on the tach.?

 

Even with a bad crank sensor, the engine should crank normally.

If it struggles to crank, your problem lies somewhere in the starter circuit. Maybe relay? Maybe starter? Hopefully not a seized engine.

 

Charge the battery fully and see if the problem persists.

 

Dude.... The battery is fully charged.. Why does everyone keep saying charge the battery like I'm not gonna make sure it's above 12.5 volts before I use it?

 

VOLTAGE is not how you tell if a battery is charged.

If the battery will not accept any more AMPERAGE from a charger and still cranks sluggishly it's usually a failing starter on these cars. However a spun bearing will feel the same as a bad starter, if you can't turn the engine by hand with the drive belts disconnected and spark plugs out then the motor needs rebuilt.

Usually it's a battery or starter issue though.

 

I can turn the engine by hand but i have to push it pretty hard. What's a spun bearing? I have a bad feeling that it might need to be rebuilt...that being said the cylinder block is the main part that's causing my problem right?

 

Just to verify that's with about a 24" breaker bar on the crank pulley yes? If it's with a short ratchet then it's probably normal.

Did it stay EXACTLY the same when you swapped starters? If so I would first clean the entire electrical system (both ends of both cables, apply electrical anti-oxidation grease to both ends of both cables, also clean the engine bonding jumper from the timing cover to below the coolant reservoir). If it doesn't fix anything then I would try a jump start from another vehicle, if THAT makes a difference then replace the battery, might have a failed cell that won't hold amperage.

If the electrical cleaning with a jump start doesn't make any difference remove and bench test the starter for proper operation, if might be faulty especially if it wasn't rebuilt from a reputable shop (unless you purchased it new from Nissan, that I would trust but still bench test).

Once you've eliminated the battery, ALL the cables, and the starter that basically just leaves the engine itself as the culprit. Have someone who knows what a spun bearing feels like take a pull on the engine and see what they think.

What's the oil level at right now?

 

Pretty much.. I mean it sounded a tiny bit better with the new starter but not much. When you say clean connections do you mean literally every one? Or all the ones for the starting circuit? Oils like just below full

 

Engine bonding jumper?

 

Just the ones needed for the starter which are the primary positive battery cable, there are multiple points of attachment for it though, the battery post to fusible link, then where the cable bolts onto the fusible link, then the other end of the cable that bolts directly to the starter. Ground wire at the battery, then where it attaches to the chassis right next to the battery. Then where it jumpers from the chassis below the coolant reservoir, then where that jumper attaches to the passenger side of the timing chain cover.

Don't worry about the starting controls circuit (small wire going to the solenoid) it's engaging the starter and doing it's job. Hopefully you find something maybe with the fusible link that's got corrosion or a loose connection that's causing the problem.

 

Yeah the engine bonding jumper is the wire that goes from the passenger side of the timing chain cover to a 2-hole lug bolted to the chassis that's directly below the coolant reservoir. If you remove the single 10mm bolt from the coolant reservoir and lift it straight up (leave the hose attached, there is enough slack) then you can access that 2-hole lug.

 

I'll go give that a shot.. Thanks for all the help. Ill let you know if it works

 

does the positive cable go from the battery post , directly to the starter and then branch off to the alternator?