06 6spd slow crank no start
I'm not 100% sure about this car, usually it will have a y-tap somewhere and hit the alternator but I think on the G35 it actually lands on one of the fuse holders in the fusible link.
Larger gauge wire always hits the starter, that's the higher current device.
Or are you talking about what order to land them on the device, doesn't matter since you should be doing that kind of work with the battery fully disconnected.
Or are you talking about what order to land them on the device, doesn't matter since you should be doing that kind of work with the battery fully disconnected.
Ok have you added 1 gallon of fresh fuel, the fuel gauge is notorious for failing and showing that you have gas when it's actually empty.
Also check for spark, pull the plug, put it back in the coil pack, hold the end of the coil pack with a leather gloved hand and place the ground strap of the spark plug about 1/4" away from the intake manifold and watch for spark while someone else cranks the motor.
If you have spark then next test for fuel pressure, order the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports and install it between the fuel rail and the passenger side fuel damper. You can order it with a fuel gauge which makes it easy to read if you have pressure, you can also order a fuel schrader valve to use a traditional fuel pressure tester (or to relieve pressure in the future since there is no fuel port).
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
If you have spark, and you have fuel, then we'll start on the next series of troubleshooting steps.
Also check for spark, pull the plug, put it back in the coil pack, hold the end of the coil pack with a leather gloved hand and place the ground strap of the spark plug about 1/4" away from the intake manifold and watch for spark while someone else cranks the motor.
If you have spark then next test for fuel pressure, order the sandwich adapter from Z1 Motorsports and install it between the fuel rail and the passenger side fuel damper. You can order it with a fuel gauge which makes it easy to read if you have pressure, you can also order a fuel schrader valve to use a traditional fuel pressure tester (or to relieve pressure in the future since there is no fuel port).
https://www.z1motorsports.com/z1-pro...rt-p-9160.html
If you have spark, and you have fuel, then we'll start on the next series of troubleshooting steps.
honestly anything is possible lol.... i have 0% clue as to why it doesnt start other than ruling out the few things ive checked. would i need to take the transmission off to find that out?
Call ahead to the service center, it will probably be a 1 hour diagnostic which usually runs $125. Don't have them perform the repair, just diagnose the problem.
Since you're only cranking at 125rpm I would still disconnect the drive belts, pull the spark plugs, and have someone familliar with the amount of resistance a motor should have turn the crank pulley by hand just to see if they think it's a spun bearing. I just pulled the fuel pump relay on mine and cranked it and the rpm's sit almost exactly at 200, however mine has the OEM starter that was rebuilt by a shop in town.
You can also try cranking it with the stuff disconnected and it should spin MUCH faster, if it doesn't then something is probably wrong, drain the oil into a VERY clean container and run a clean magnet through the bottom to see if it picks up any metal shavings. Let it sit overnight covered so it doesn't pick up any extra debris and pour it all off into a second container SLOWLY while you watch for "glitter" in the oil, most of it will settle to the bottom and if it's a spun bearing I can almost guarantee it will have a lot of glitter.
When was the last time the vehicle was driven and what exactly happened that immobilized it? Lots of details will help.
Since you're only cranking at 125rpm I would still disconnect the drive belts, pull the spark plugs, and have someone familliar with the amount of resistance a motor should have turn the crank pulley by hand just to see if they think it's a spun bearing. I just pulled the fuel pump relay on mine and cranked it and the rpm's sit almost exactly at 200, however mine has the OEM starter that was rebuilt by a shop in town.
You can also try cranking it with the stuff disconnected and it should spin MUCH faster, if it doesn't then something is probably wrong, drain the oil into a VERY clean container and run a clean magnet through the bottom to see if it picks up any metal shavings. Let it sit overnight covered so it doesn't pick up any extra debris and pour it all off into a second container SLOWLY while you watch for "glitter" in the oil, most of it will settle to the bottom and if it's a spun bearing I can almost guarantee it will have a lot of glitter.
When was the last time the vehicle was driven and what exactly happened that immobilized it? Lots of details will help.
Also, are the spark plugs wet after a few attempts at cranking? If the injectors are opening then they should be pretty soaked, if the plugs are dry then the injectors are NOT opening which makes me think it's a cam/crank sensor issue or no fuel pressure.
How did you test for fuel pressure? Do you already have the Z1 sandwich adapter?
How did you test for fuel pressure? Do you already have the Z1 sandwich adapter?
when you say crank while everything is disconnected you mean the drive belts and spark plugs right? and honestly i bought the car not running because i thought i could use this engine i have from an automatic g35( didnt do my research first like an idiot) also the spark plugs do get wet, i pulled the lower oil pan off the other day and i do believe it looked kinda glittery





when I connect a scanner and crank it the RPM's only get to maybe 120 at the highest