Hey yall, it seems my OEM remote entry receiver/system has fully bugged out (and I checked easy stuff like fuses, etc..), so I sprung for a cheap keyless entry "kit" to see if I could slap it in and at least get one door to unlock via remote with an aftermarket kit. Has anyone wired up one of these cheap kits before? I found some mentions of running wires into the door to trigger the lock/unlock functions, but I couldn't find any other details.

I consulted the FSM and soon realized the lock/unlock commands from the window switch are sent over serial which must explain the workaround of wiring directly to the switch. My amateur self also tried directly supplying power to the wire from the BCM to the actuator itself in hopes of getting the dang actuator to move at least (50/51 on image below). This quickly resulted in a hot wire, I guess the internal switch of the BCM isn't just floating like I had hoped, whoops (it doesn't have appeared to blown any fuses or broken anything luckily)

Is running wires all the way to the switch in the door required for a cheap kit like this to work? I'm guessing I'd have to open up the door switch and tap into some of the connections in there? Any help appreciated

Kit:

 

Intelligent key system or just the regular fob (iKey is push to start ignition).

 

Cleric - I just have the regular key fob system, no intelligent key fob or push start.

 

Did you figure out your wiring scenario and how to eliminate the hot wire? I'm trying to install the cheap parts express door lock actuators on my son's 2009 G37X Sedan and there are 5-6 wires going to the plug on the actuator itself. I'm trying to figure out which two wires to tie into and so far it seems that three are needed in order to respond to the lock (black and Pink) and unlock (black and green) and generate a positive or negative current. Then ends up with cross wiring and we all know what happens when we cross the streams... Wire gets hot! I don't want the car burning down or catching on fire, so I'm hoping someone can help me decipher the wiring for the driver side door? Why does the factory actuator need 6 wires going into it? Will a combination of just two wires give me a positive and negative 12V signal to trigger the actuators? My plan was to get the right two wires via diagnosis at the plug and then trace them back in the door and cut and tie into them there to run to the actuator.

The overall scenario on the car is that none of cars four doors will lock or unlock via key fob or door lock switch. The fuel door and trunk will work, but that is it. We've owned the car for over a year now and the locks haven't worked since we bought it. It seems odd that all four door lock actuators would be bad, but maybe they all died one at a time before we purchased it or maybe there is another issue. Anyone have any ideas?


Wiring woes - G37 Door Lock Actuator replacement

 

Well for my situation, I found two options:
1) (the option I did) - I took apart the driver side door switch assembly. I figured out how the mechanical switch for the door lock works, which locks/unlocks by grounding one of two circuits. I soldered 2 wires into the door switch assembly, allowing me to ground either of these two small circuits via the aftermarket keyless entry box. The problem being, I had to mount the keyless entry box in the door, because I wasn't going to go through the hassle of sending wires through the door jam - looked like a big PITA. Because of this, I have no trunk or flasher functionality on my switch. The PROBLEM with this setup is, for some reason if I unlock via the keyfob, then the car was previously locked with the key or some other way, the alarm will go off. Super annoying.

2) I believe this is the better option, but not 100% it would work. Buying a cheap door switch assembly online, and wire this assembly up to send the serial commands to the BCM to unlock/lock. I think this would work better and allow mounting inside

For your issues: my best guess is the keyfob won't work because the fobs on these cars have issues (at least on my generation G). And maybe your door switch won't lock/unlock if the mechanical switch is gunked up something. I'd open the assembly of the door switch, clean out the contacts, and regrease. If that doesn't work, then you're in the world of wiring troubleshooting per Field Service Manual, a multimeter, and possibly a long weekend. Maybe an issue with the BCM relays/wiring.