So my timing chain tensioner can be compressed with my bare hand pretty easily, does this mean i need a new one? What if i re use it? Will it be ok?

Also what if i don't use gasket sealer and just bolt the tensioner and water pump covers back in place? Lol

https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...iy-needed.html

cleric670
https://g35driver.com/forums/general...ioner-how.html

coffeysm
https://g35driver.com/forums/general...ck-adjust.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ing-chain.html

chain rattle
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-cou...n-replace.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...ming-belt.html

I can only point you to this stuff.
There are chain guides to inspect as well...but it looks like the noise may well be the tensiors(s) and the WP gets replaced while you are in there.

I would get a Nissan mechanic through yourmechanic.com to take a look at it for you.
You need a G35 engine guy to give you solid advice and who knows what they are looking at.

A GEM
https://www.my4dsc.com/how-to-replac...-timing-chain/

Keep us posted

Sorta wished you had tried a ceramic block sealer before tearing stuff apart. Moroso sells an extremely good one that if used per instructions will seal up leaks just short of holes in the block/heads. It isn't cheap about $20-$25 for a pint bottle. Years ago, my daughter blew up her Toyota, once I got it home found that the plastic radiator had split from compression gas. Put in a brass/copper radiator for a $100, bottle of the ceramic following the instructions and she drove the car another 4 years, then traded it in.

Dropped a bolt for the water pump into the timing chain case.. fell by where you turn the crankshaft... lol would it be ok to just leave that bolt? also my timing chain tensioner piston seems to be long and doesn't seem to fully compress as it is still quite long even after compressed with an alley holding it which is causing me to not be able to re install the timing chain tensioner

Was your tensioner extended all the way when you took the black over off and did it sit against the guide rail? You'd probably have to use a vice to compress it and then stick a pin or something in the hole.

Uh, you're going to probably need to get that bolt out of there (that's up to you though) and you need to use RTV to seal the covers back up. Try sticking one of those long skinny magnets in there and see if you can fish out the bolt.

In that video above where he talks about hearing a pop or something that's exactly what happened to me and it didn't take much force at all. So, just be careful when you do the job. You can end up destroying your motor.

When i took it off i did it without a flashlight so i couldn't see so well.. lmao i unbolted the bottom bolt on the tensioner first and as soon as the bolt came out of the hole the tensioner shifted, got pushed to the left, i almost couldn't get it out lol

Idk what happened to my water pump but the part where the timing chain turns the blades got all loose and wobbly, i believe water seeped through the propeller part somehow which was causing my leak..

Probably the bearings and what not like I said, which was also the source of your noise. Make sure you lube the oil o-ring with oil and coolant o-ring with coolant. If it fixes your problem and no more leak than pat yourself on the back for saving hundreds of dollars yourself. Also, be glad you didn't trash the car over a HG like you thought originally!

Yea, you need to compress the tensioner with a bench vise or something, but it shouldn't be that easy to compress by hand. I'd just go buy a new one from the dealer if possibly, I think they were less than 100 bucks if I remember right.

Be glad you caught it too that seems like it was pretty damn compromised! Mine wasn't leaking and was still sturdy it's just the bearings were so worn they were grindy and loud.

You can compress the tensioner easily by hand, there's a little hole in the front of it that you insert a small screwdriver or allen key or something to keep the plunger retracted so you can unbolt the thing.

So i fixed it, no more leaking, turned on the car too with the bolt still somewhere in the timing cover by the crank lmao... sounds fine now but i gotta flush the oil since the oil looks all dark and murky and it only has close to 1000 miles on this oil change

Ok, so all seems fine, except when i rev to like 3k rpm when it drops back down it drops to 500rpm and seems like it wants to stall but it doesn't, could that be from the 2 belts in front of the timing and water cover being just a bit slack? Or is it just from still having a bit of water/coolant in the engine? Gonna do another oil change after 100 miles

Slack belts will generally squeal.
Maybe half an inch deflection with your thumb for the main one and a bit less for the AC belt.

I'd drive it and get the torque phone app with a BAFX BT obd2 dongle.
It could be just a new problem...pcv/vac lines..maybe?
I think the G35 idle is ~750 rpm?

Thanks for sharing everybody..I learned a lot myself!!


I have the upper oil pan gasket to replace this Christmas "vacation."
I am not looking forward to it at all.

Lol car runs fine but last night it stalled on me multiple times, like it has trouble idling, only when idling though

Do the idle air recalibration, Section EC page 79 in the FSM.