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HELP! 03 G35 Coupe Starts and Turns off immediately
Hey Guys, I have a 2003 Infiniti G35 Coupe. The car was running Great, no issue. I removed the battery for around 2 hours because I had to go get a replacement one. After installing the new battery, The car starts and then just turns off. Even when I press the gas pedal, it bogs down and turns off. I taught maybe the key lost the program somehow or was stuck in the anti theft mode, so I had AAA come and check. They reprogramed the key and ecu and its the same issue.
I then came across a post where someone said to disconnect the throttle body sensor connector and MAF Sensor connector and try to start the car. I remove the throttle body sensor connector first and the car started and ran for a few seconds then bogged down and shut off. I then unplugged the MAF sensor connector alone and reconnected the Throttle body sensor connector and it did the same thing, ran for a few seconds then turned off.
But when I disconnected both the throttle body connector and MAF connector the car started and throttled perfect. So now I'm not sure what the issue really is. Would really appreciate you guys help.
I attempted to try that, but the video that I found on youtube, shows the car must be running. But once I connect the Throttle Body and MAF sensors. The Car Turns off.
Hey Guys, I did the ECU Reset, Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
But Still no luck. The car still just starts up and turns off in like 2 seconds. https://uprev.com/documentation/Rese...-Functions.pdf
Hey Guys, I did the ECU Reset, Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning, and Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
But Still no luck. The car still just starts up and turns off in like 2 seconds. https://uprev.com/documentation/Rese...-Functions.pdf
Hmm, I think a bad MAF sensor will give u the same symptoms as what u are describing. Possible that mighe be your issue.
In a previous post he mentioned that unplugging both the throttle body and the MAF the car ran perfectly, in limp mode obviously. But it's not a fueling issue or anything like that.
Now that you've done the throttle closed position relearn try unplugging JUST the MAF to see if it will run (in limp mode).
That should help narrow down what the issue is, I would also pull and inspect/clean the MAF. It might be all crudded up especially if it has an oiled filter or if the filter was ever cleaned/reoiled by someone who isn't proficient at using the correct amount of oil.
Or maybe it's in backwards or something The stock MAF housing can only mount in one direction but the sensor itself can be installed backwards, air should flow into the little wire at the front.
In a previous post he mentioned that unplugging both the throttle body and the MAF the car ran perfectly, in limp mode obviously. But it's not a fueling issue or anything like that.
Now that you've done the throttle closed position relearn try unplugging JUST the MAF to see if it will run (in limp mode).
That should help narrow down what the issue is, I would also pull and inspect/clean the MAF. It might be all crudded up especially if it has an oiled filter or if the filter was ever cleaned/reoiled by someone who isn't proficient at using the correct amount of oil.
Or maybe it's in backwards or something The stock MAF housing can only mount in one direction but the sensor itself can be installed backwards, air should flow into the little wire at the front.
Tried that also, I even switched the MAF after the Relearn and still have the same issue. I also check the MAF sensor if its installed in the right position and thats also correct. I checked every fuse and relay in the car, also checked the hidden fuse box behind the battery and all is fine. The only other thing I'm thinking of doing next is replacing the Throttle Body.
Ok Guys, Just posting an Update, SMH! So I got a Mobile Mechanic with a Autel Scanner to check the car. First off, When he connected the scanner, he was getting no communication with my ECM. But he was still able to manually enter my vin and do the Gas Pedal/Throttle body Relearn and Confirmed the Throttle body was Good. We did get the correct throttle response to the Gas Pedal, and the car did start and run with the Throttle Body Connected, and the MAF disconnected, but it just revs up and down. But when he tried to connect to the MAF Sensor it said no communication with ECM. He told that there was no communication between the OBD scanner plug and the ECM so he told be to remove the ECM and get it checked at a local shop that repairs and Test ECMs. Took it to them and all results came back ok, They made full communication with the ECM. So I reinstalled it in the car, now my Security Light is on, which means the Key program was lost. So I got the mechanic to come back to see if he could reprogram the key, but because his scanner was not making any communication, He could not. So now the security is on and we can't reprogram the key. I checked all fuses and Relays and they are all good. I came across 1 Post that said it could possible be the IPDM located behind the Battery, so I removed it and check all fuses and removed all relays and checked for burn marks, but everything looks good. So now I'm wondering if I need to just replace the complete IPDM. Would a Bad IPDM block the communication between the Scanner and ECM? Can you guys let me know your taughts and recommendation because I really don't want to have it towed to the dealership just yet because we all know what that bill will be.
Day 2 Update, Just installed Replacement IPDM and still no Communication with ECM. I even connected my Cheap Actron and it saids No Link. So now I'm just going to try replacing the ECU Next. If that doesn't work I'm going to try to do a Continuity test from the OBD 2 Connector to the ECM Connector. This seems to be a regular issue with the G35 and 350z. I watch so many videos and read so many posts on many different websites and I could not find not 1 single person that Solved the issue. So hopefully it is in fact the ECM even though I had a shop test it and they told me it was good. And the reason I'm still replacing it is a dead ECM has the same symptoms which are No Communication and once the key is in the ignition on ACC the Fans will come on and stay running. If anyone have any other ideas would really appreciate it.
Here is the one-line for the OBD2 connector. The connector itself is that harness M8, layout is at the bottom of the picture, very pins 4 and 5 have continuity to ground, pins 8 and 16 should have 12v with the ignition on. Verify the circuit to the ECM by disconnecting the ECM and checking continuity between pin 7 on the OBD2 connector to pin 85 on the ECM harness, purple wire.
If all the pins check out and you still cannot communicate with the ECM then it's almost definitely a bad ECM.
I would put the original IPDM back in though since it WAS working (sort of) with that IPDM.
The stock MAF housing can only mount in one direction but the sensor itself can be installed backwards, air should flow into the little wire at the front.
