Hello all,

I'm going to be taking out my G35 manual transmission to get to the rear main seal leak. I figured while I am taking it out, I might take it over to a transmission shop for a rebuild, 3rd gear grinds a bit so I thought it couldn't hurt. I will be doing other things as well, like heat shielding the hoses and different fluid to help, but I realized....I don't know any trans shops that works on infinitis. Does anyone have a recommendation? I'm located in Dallas/Forth worth, but if I have to take it elsewhere in the state or surrounding area, I will.

Any recommendations?

 

I wouldn't bother rebuilding an earlier model CD000, CD003, CD005, CD006, or CD008, just take it down to the recycler and get rid of it.

You can either buy a used CD009 or CD00A (A is the newest version), or get price quotes at your local Nissan to buy a brand new CD000A. Used they're usually like $500, new is right about $2k.

 

OK, here's where I could use some education, if you don't mind.

1 - a Used CD009 sounds like that is right up my alley. Is it actually plug and play to the existing setup? Not just physically, but does any computer part or wiring or programmer need to be done?

2- I didn't realize that everything before CD009 was "junk". I presume there is an embossment on the side that tells me which one it is?

for example, is this:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/28478878027...cAAOSwIqpiaZ2r

A CD00 or something?

What year does the CD009 appear in G35's? Or does it not appear until the G37?

 

All the 6MT transmissions were interchangeable, there is no computer controlling anything, they have a PNP and reverse/backup switch on the transmission, that's it. You can keep your existing switches, one is on the right side, one on the left.

The reason the older revisions were garbage is because they had fewer synchronizer cones, the CD00A is the latest revision but it's essentially the exact same as a CD009.

Check out Z1 Motorsports chart for the exact details, ignore all the JK or EA transmission stuff, that's all for the VQ35HR/VQ37VHR.

https://cdn.z1motorsports.com/upload...ck%20Guide.pdf

I can't remember all the details about how to identify a CD009, you'll probably just have to google that one.

Looked up a quick youtube video on it and this guy explains it perfectly (and quickly!)

 

Very nice.

Do you also recommend the steel braided slave cylinder line? I figure it can't hurt and they are not expensive, but maybe it's a placebo. I also figure I will wrap the lines to protect from heat. I already see places elsewhere in the car where heat wrap wouldn't hurt.

 

I have one just because it's far more common to get a braided line.

Something else to think about, your early model coupe has a very small restrictor in the clutch line. They revised it in 2005 I think and deleted it.

When you release the clutch pedal it actually takes a small fraction of time for the fluid pressure to drop off due to the restrictor, it's behind the driver/left wheel shroud on the firewall side. Just follow the hose back and you'll see it, I strongly recommend removing it, put it in a bench vice and drill it out.

Or you could replace the entire line from the master to slave cylinder with a 1 piece. Personally I wouldn't go that route because there's nothing wrong with the hard line once you get that orifice/restrictor opened up.