Having your friends help you has it's pros and cons. The pros are I was able to get the transmission back in, but it took some work. We couldn't get it just stabbed into the new pilot bushing, so I finally had two guys hols it as straights as possible and then ran long bolts through and slowly pulled it forward into the bearing. That seemed to work, and I got all the bolts in the transmission bell housing in. I will torque them to correct specs today. However. my friends are not so good with keeping track of bolts and managed to lose the two small bolts that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission. I called the dealer and they don't have any in stock and it will take a few days, so I was hoping I could go down to Lowes and pick up some replacements. However, I do not know the size of the bolt. Does anyone know?

Part number of the bolt is 08156-8301E, but that didn't reveal a size. I am guessing this is a M10x1.5 but I also don't know what length, maybe 40mm?

If someone knows, that would be great. I just don't want to wait a week for a bolt when I could match something local and get this things down off the lift and actually drive it

Thanks for any help.

03 G35 Coupe M6

 

Straighten out a paperclip and measure the depth of the hole with the slave cylinder held in place with your hand, then bend the paperclip over. Now you know how deep the hole is, get a bolt just slightly shorter.

As for thread pitch, pull one of the bolts off the engine somewhere else (like the intake manifold or something) and find one that's the same thread pitch for that hole.

Now take that bolt and the paperclip and go shopping.

A grade M4.8 would be fine, M8.8 would be better.

 

That's funny you said that, so far no luck on the bolt that matches.

Good idea on the paperclip, I will go do that.

I figured there is not that much stress on the slave, so most grades should suffice for now.

 

Yeah if I had to just guess and pull a number out of my butt I'd say there's about 100-150 lbs of shear load spread across the two fasteners. So basically any grade could probably work.

There's usually two thread pitch when it comes to metric bolts, just like SAE, a coarse and a fine thread bolt.

I'd guess it's probably either M6x1.0 or M8x1.25, those are your fine thread pitches.

If you can find the thread pitch but cannot find a bolt long enough you could always use some allthread (long running thread) and cut it down to length then just run a flat washer, lock washer, nut onto it to secure.

Home Depot and Lowes usually carries all that stuff in stock, typically a good selection of metric fasteners and I usually go there rather than an auto parts house which won't have hardly any bolts in stock.

 

I'm getting the feeling they are a little weird for a parts store. I tried M8x1.25 and 1.0, I think these are M8x1.5, but my local stores don't carry that pitch. I should try M6 next.

headed to junk yard to hope to find something tomorrow.

 

They are an M8x1.25 x 35mm.

 

Thanks!! headed to store right now then! Maybe an Ace hardware might have something. Appreciate it!

 

I wanted to thank Hoserg35, the M8x1.50 35mm was the exact size I needed. No one had it around, but Amazon had it in 10.9 hardness. Really appreciate it. I tried about a dozen different sizes, so this was great.

So now I've got my slave installed, readjusted my new slave steel braided line, covered it in heat shielding for extra care,

Now I can tighten the transmission to spec with my Torque wrench and finally get the driveshaft and exhaust installed. Hopefully (fingers crossed) it will be finished today. It's not too bad temp wise so I should be able to sneak out of work and get a lot done.

Thanks again, this forum has been very helpful.

 

You are very welcome. Glad it all worked out for you. Keep us posted on your progress, sounds like things are coming along nicely.

 

Ah, I was so excited.
Got the slave on and bled no problem. Pumped about 70 times all good. Put in the transmissions and exhaust. Filled up all the fluids. Took it for a drive....and....sadly, it's still leaking from the back of the block. I'm guessing even with all my careful installation the seal folded over or something, because it's bad, really bad, just pouring out.

I almost can't believe it, I was so careful.

At least almost everything else seems fine.

 

Take off the tranny, put the exhaust back on, watch where the oil is pouring out from. Might be something completely different.

 

Yeah.....I'll start in a few hours. I just can't imagine what went wrong or what else it leaking. I checked the sensors as well since I was there, and they were dry.

I'm hoping it's something like a loose bolt or the oil pain is not tight enough, but if I see a blown RMS I am going to be scratching my head. I will have to presume I folded it over somehow and didn't notice.

Well, at least I have all the bolts so I should be able to drop trans, clutch, flywheel pretty quickly, just a few hours and see what has happened.

 

It takes me about 40 minutes to pull a G/Z tranny now. Once you've done it a couple times it's REALLY fast.

 

Agreed. I pulled this one out fairly quickly, not as quickly as you, but probably 2 hours.

And....it looks like two possible things. The RMS does look like it was slightly "not right", I saw seepage coming through the bottom part of the seal. But, there is this plug that was above it that was also seeping oil. I think we all thought it was coolant, but it's not, it leads into the engine valley. I took that off, new copper washer, added some rtv for extra insurance, and closed that up.

I pried out the RMS and oh so carefully put a new one in. I don't know if it's quite right, so I think I am going to try to bolt up the flywheel and the starter and start the car without the tranmission while on the lift to see if it will hold. I think all I have to do is hold the clutch pedal down so it will start.

Otherwise the whole mess has to come off again in order to get a new seal in correctly. Bleh.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if it was coming from even higher, like the valve covers or a blown out cam sensor o ring or something along those lines.