As per the factory manual, I used an 8mm bolt to push the water pump out.

I was able to get the pump out, but not after breaking off the bolt.

There is a small shoulder on the bolt, I have attempted to grab it with a vice grips, without success.

What is the best course of action to remove this without introducing metal shavings into my oil supply?




Thank you in advance.

 

Use 2" wide blue painters tape and make a little wall, sticky side up, to catch metal shavings that you drill. Use a bolt extractor (easy out) and remove the bolt.

Probably what happened is you used the wrong grade of bolt, I'm guessing if you look at the headstamping it's either unstamped or it's something soft like grade 307A. Don't use anything softer than metric grade 5.8 with a ratchet for things like that or you'll probably twist the heads off. Personally I like to use a nut driver as long as there is room (pretty tight on the G35 so I use a ratchet but just grip it up at the socket so I don't have leverage).

The hardest part will be getting room to use the bolt extractor since you probably have the radiator in the car, without the radiator there SHOULD be room to get a short regular drill in there a right angle drill will easily fit, just be sure to use that painters tape and tape the F out of the area so nothing can drop down into the hole in case you snap the extractor bit.

If there's not enough room for a drill and you don't have a right angle one you can use a tee handle for a tap and chuck it up to the bolt extractor, then use a block of wood and pry against the upper radiator support to put pressure on the bolt extractor while you spin it by hand. It's incredibly awkward and easier with two people but definitely works. It's using that drill bit with a tee handle that's the brutal part, your forearms will be sore for days but the metal of the bolt was soft enough that it sheared the head off so it's probably just low grade steel.

I strongly recommend NOT using a center punch to make a divot/pilot in the bolt, good way to screw up your block, there's not a lot of metal in that area.

That bolt isn't in there very hard, I bet you can pull it easily with the bolt extractor with a very shallow hole from the drill bit. Try to make the drill fit even if you have to go buy a right angle drill from Home Depot or whatever, just make sure it's got a CLUTCH ON IT or you will almost definitely be snapping off the bit or the extractor. If it doesn't have a clutch I strongly recommend just draining it's battery down to the point where it's got very little torque to prevent breaking your drill bit/extractor bit.

Good luck, you'll get it out, it's not HARD it just takes time.

 

This is much like my audi 3.0 upper belt tensioner bolt that sheared off at the block.
It is a semi-common problem with the 3.0.

If a tap/extractor does not work (and you manage to shear the tap into the near center bolt because your tap touches the block as well as the sheared screw), you can use "many new" and "very small disposable" titanium drill bits to hog out around the sheared bolt. As Cleric has said, there is little room for this.

But if you are careful, you can pluck the sheared bolt out.

Then you must use drill bits to progressively drill 1mm at a time to tap and screw an insert-sert sleeve into the block.
Rig the drill up by hanging it up to something so the arc is consistent on each progressively 1mm drill, then thread/ tap and put EZ-LOK sleeve in with extra red thread locker.

The drill bits can be marked for depth with black electrical tape, as you have or can search your original bolt length..else you will have to find that depth though progressive drillings and attempted wigglings of the sheared bolt.

Work slowly and lubricate very often with great patience.

You can do this.

 

I took the entire front clip off including radiator support to have straight access to it. I was in the process of replacing the radiator anyway. I am working on it and hoping this works....thank you.

 

There is another trick of tacking-welding a nut onto the sheared bolt.
but I don't know what is involved.

That would be the next approach I would look into, before hogging-drilling everything out around the sheared bolt.

I just didn't know anyone with those skills.

 

That would be REALLY tough to do in that situation where it's basically sitting flush already. Plus it's a tiny bolt to begin with, Your chances of melting out the side into the block are pretty high.

 

yup..nut would have to be a smaller one than the original, so tack does not touch anything but the shaft, and centered precisely, but thought I would mention it.

 

I spent weeks getting my sheared tensioner bolt out..then progressively drilling and threading for a lok-sert.
I had folks telling me that I would have to throw away the block.

As Cleric said, If you are careful and drill the tap centered, and not too deep to have it touch the block, you will be ok.

I had a shop shear my tap in the sheared bolt...then call to tell me to tow my vehicle out..so it was a different situation.

 

Lol I've TIG welded an engine block back together when one threw a rod out of the side of the engine and made a big hole. Unless the bore of the cylinder is damaged there is a LOT that you can fix yourself. Just gotta get creative sometimes.

I made valve covers, like literally MADE two valve cover out of sheet metal one time, because my buddy was flat broke, and someone stole his valve covers off his Dodge Dart one weekend.

I welded a broken crankshaft back together on an old volkswagen, literally broken in two pieces when it fell off his workbench and cracked in half between the main and rod bearing, I ground a nice bevel onto the broken ends, put it back in the engine and torqued the mains to keep it completely straight, packed fire blanket around to keep the splatter to a minimum then literally filled the beveled groove in with a MIG DC welder, rotate the crank, MIG a little more, rotate back, MIG, rinse/repeat. Cast iron crank, that engine is in my neighbors car and literally still runs to this day...

My dad overheated and blew up the SBC 350 in his old work truck and ruined the block, I had another block sitting outside that was basically just a flower planter, bores were rusted AF but the economy was crap so no one was doing bathroom/kitchen remodels so he didn't have ANY money to spend on an engine. I bottle honed that block to death I thought, it was BAD I went through almost two full cans of WD40 and did the dirtiest backyard rebuild you've ever seen in your life from pieces I had from his old motor. His heads were badly warped and I flattened them out by hand with his belt sander and the lowest grit belt he had was like 200 since it was all for woodworking. That thing ran like a champion for the next year but drank 2 quarts every thousand miles, business got better (massively better actually) and he ended up selling the truck.

 

that is amazing cleric670. where did you learn how to do these things ? is it a full time job for you ?

 

I'm an IBEW wireman, during my apprenticeship my teacher very candidly said "First and foremost you're a mechanic, occasionally you get to play with electricity". He wasn't wrong, most of my job involves metal fab either cutting, welding, grinding, drilling, bending, etc. Power and hand tools of every kind. Tube steel, plate steel, conduit, rod, strut, whatever.

Additionally I've been working on cars since I was about 13, so 30 years of wrenching, 20 years as a wireman.

Mostly I was surrounded by a lot of great people who taught me SO MANY tricks and tips. The most important skill that I try to impress on my apprentices (beyond work ethic and integrity) is learning how to fix things when they break. Anything can break, the masters of the craft are those who can fix it.

I'm also very good at understanding how things work, why they work, what things complement other things, mechanically and electrically I just "get it". My dad used to say I was "the master of the mechanical stuff". Broken appliances, fixed. Broken machinery, fixed. Ever since I was a little kid I've been taking apart broken stuff and fixing it, I grew up at the lower end of the middle class so if something broke my parents didn't or couldn't buy a new one, I used to fix all my younger brothers toys when I was little. Take it apart, figure out how it works, fix what can be fixed, put it back together.

Plus I really enjoy offering suggestions to other folks about what troubleshooting steps I would take. It's the best when people come back and say they were able to fix it

Most of the people I grew up with were on the poorer end of the spectrum, my dad had a bathroom and kitchen remodel business and he was ALWAYS helping people out in his spare time (he was a workaholic) so he would collect used appliances and "donate" them to people who couldn't afford to replace a refrigerator, washer, dryer, dishwasher. Usually these used appliances had problems so I would fix them the best I was able to get them 100% functional again before they got donated. Dishwasher heating element melted a hole in the side of the plastic enclosure? Bend it back straight and fill the hole with Permatex Ultra Grey. Dryer isn't pumping hot air? Replace the malfunctioning temp high or low limit switch. So on and so forth, machines are usually pretty basic in function once you figure out what the various pieces are. Unless it catches on fire you can usually fix it. Sometimes it catches on fire and it's still fixable.

This all translated into automotive as well, I can't even count how many crazy repairs I've done on cars over the years just to get them working again for folks who can't afford to buy the parts or pay a shop for repairs. One of the craziest was an old Toyota Camry my old neighbor lady had. She was super old on a fixed income, husband had died a few years prior and she had NO MONEY WHATSOEVER. Transmission went out on her car, first gear clutch pack was totally shot except for a couple disks that I swapped with other gears (took the worst ones and put them all in 1st gear) I drilled 4 holes THROUGH THE CLUTCH PACK SET and bolted the entire thing together solid then put it back in the car. It was basically a two speed with overdrive and started in 2nd gear. But it ran until the day she died, didn't cost anything except for about 8 hours of my time.

Her house was also the one and only time I've ever line-side tapped an electrical meter enclosure (basically stealing power because it isn't going through the meter). Her house had horrible insulation, 2x4 walls, and single pane windows with only vermiculite insulation in the attic and her heating bill in the winter was insane. She was literally paying more to heat her 900 sq.ft house than I did to heat my 3500 sq.ft house... I line tapped the meter and ran some 6AWG SO cable to an old 60amp sub panel I had pulled from a commercial remodel job I was on then tied it to her electric wall heaters and swamp cooler so she didn't have to pay for power on them anymore. I didn't tell her what I was doing, I just told her I had picked up a "more efficient electrical panel" at work that would save her money on her power bill.

I still don't feel bad for doing that even though it's basically THE cardinal sin for electricians.

 

Amazing. do you have a 4-post or 2-post lift at home to do a lot of car work ? or do you use jack stands

 

I actually have two friends that both have those portable low profile 2 post, I have the same anchor pattern in my shop so if I have something that might NEED a 2 post I just borrow one of theirs (then it stays in the shop until they need it back which could be months). Typically it's only stuff like exhaust work where I'm bending pipe and fitting it under a car where I use them. Occasionally for a heavier transmission.

Usually I just use 6 ton jackstands for cars and 12 ton for trucks (they adjust higher) though because most tasks only take a couple hours, plus it's actually easier for a lot of stuff because you don't have to try to balance things on tall jacks or tables (or lift a transmission onto a taller tranny jack by yourself), stuff balances pretty good on a service jack. Those cheapo plastic Shittsburgh creepers from Harbor Freight are absolutely amazing btw, I've used a LOT of so-called-high-end creepers and they're less ergonomic than those low profile plastic ones. Sure they might LAST longer but the Shittsburgh ones are only like $40 and you can absolutely abuse them before they bend a wheel over.

I typically don't have much help when working on cars, mostly a solo adventure because I don't want someone else to screw something up, then I have to fix it.

Most things aren't done under a car anyways.

 

I was an electronics tech the degreed engineer.

But...the best time I had was when I worked with an electrician to put in 5 feed panels on my 4 unit rental.
We ripped out all the 60 amp panels.

We ran two sets of copper feed lines to the front if the house and up two separate weather heads....pulled the lines through the conduits with my pickup truck doing the pulling.

Ripped out all the BS Aluminum feed lines running along the outside of the house and drove 5 grounding rods.

He said I got the wrong gig.
I would still be working now.

This guy was a second of three generations electricians.
He had a old Milwaukee right angle drill that belonged to his father...it was all silver and no plastic...only thing replace was the switch..which was replaced with a toggle switch.
it was a thing of beauty.

 

What do I even do in my situation. I can get the bolt stuck in my threads out but the other half fell down into my timing cover. I know I’m going to have to take it off but I know nothing about timing. What do I have to do timing wise.