Damnnnnn, I just unplugged the battery for 3hrs (i've got about 700miles on her) and took her out for a spin. NOTICEABLE IMPROVEMENT!!!

1) There is NO more harsh shifting when left in D. I used to get it bad in 1st (as per that TSB), not anymore (atleast until it re-learns)

2) manumatic mode is INSANT. Better than the M3 I drove. When i first picked it up it was sluggish and i figured that was naturally. HELL NO!!! shifts instantaneously

3) could be just my imagination, but it felt really peppy. also, i gave it a run (yea, bad me ) and i swear it shifted like 400rpm higher than it used to

4) i heard the tires break lose on the 2-3 shift fun fun fun *grins evily*

All i've got to say to you A/T owners is DO IT!!!! At the very least you should find shift improvement, in and out of manumatic mode

www.ironpumping.com
^^Bodybuilding Made Simple

 

SWEET I WAS PLANNING ON DOING IT.. what got resetted though when you took out your battery besides the stereo?


-Blk/Blk G35c

 

clock stopped, had to re-program radio stations. that's it

oh yea, andd current millege got re-set to 0

www.ironpumping.com
^^Bodybuilding Made Simple

 

what about your adress book in the Nav. willl that get reset becaus i have like 30 adresses in there and it would be a bitch to re type alll of them.

 

i forgot to check my nav

i would imagine so because it's stored in memory.....but if it makes you feel any better, the difference between the old sluggish one and the 'new' one is insane. I can't stop grinning. Usually i hated manumatic mode- i would tell it to shift at 2k rpm, and it would shift at 2 1/2k rpm, total drag. (and regular 'D' driving was also kinda harsh and sluggish). Now, BAM! it's instant, exactly like a sports car should be

www.ironpumping.com
^^Bodybuilding Made Simple

 

what did u exactly do??? jus unhook the battery? and how long did u leave it unhooked? details...

BaDbOy - "bLaCk BeAuTy"
http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...page_id=321439

 

1) lower windows (both windows must be down fully or else you're gona be fvcked )

2) take off battery cover

3) find a 10mm wrench and unscrew the locking nut that's holding the clamp to the (-) terminal. don't tkae it off, just unscrew it enough such that you can lift the clamp off

4) leave sitting for 3hrs. (people have said 12 to fully clear to memory, but i left it for exactly 3hrs. and everything was reset prefectly)

5) slide clamp back on terminal, make certain it's all the way down on it, then screw locking nut back in (and since you should have only given it a few turns, it should be easy to screw back). tighten it

you're good to go

www.ironpumping.com
^^Bodybuilding Made Simple

 

Everything in my Nav was maintained.

I didn't have the positive result you had. My AT actually *ground* a gear during the first 15 minutes, and shifts were harsher. Throttle response seemed much better though. However, this all went away by my 3rd day of driving, and now it seems no different than before.

Maybe I'll reset it again tonight and take it to the track tomorrow. Right now my best manumatic time is 0.15 seconds better than my best "D" time, which goes against accepted convention (AT is usually faster than MM if you're just flooring it in a straight line). I don't have a time logged on a reset ECU, but temperatures and humidity are supposed to be similar this weekend to when I did my other times. I'm going to be pissed if it grinds again though.

-Jack
Obsidian/graphite '03 Coupe premium nav

 

So what track times are you getting with the MM Jack?

 

Navi retains everything except on the mileage chart it zero's (****) the average mpg's.
Other than radio presets and odometer reset, nothing else is affected.

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

mmm, why would the nav retain information? (unless it's stored elsewheres, hmmm)

www.ironpumping.com
^^Bodybuilding Made Simple

 

I guess when you program the info in, it's stored on disc. Has to be that way, you wouldn't want to lose all that data just by changing or disconn. the batt.

<font color=green>GSM</font color=green>

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

So what track times are you getting with the MM Jack?

<hr></blockquote>

I only do around 14.6 MM, 14.7 AT, but the context is that I never launch above idle. I do this (1) for consistency, so I have more reliable information about what effect the changes to my car and shift points are having, and (2) so I don't prematurely destroy the transmission on my luxury automobile. It also spares my tires a bit (I don't do burnouts for the same reasons, but also because it's not supposed to help street tires much). I've heard second-hand that people who launch an AT very aggresively do around 14.2 stock. Someone has claimed to get under 14 using drag radials (was that you, atlantic99?). Everyone else in a stock AT should be somewhere between that and my times, unless you're doing something wrong (or surprisingly right).

-Jack
Obsidian/graphite '03 Coupe premium nav

 

impossible- to my knowledge it isn't a dvd/rw

www.ironpumping.com
^^Bodybuilding Made Simple

 

You think if I add that Stillen Air Intake thingy that claims to add 11hp would have me running in the 13's ?