Clutch Adjustment Cause Wear?
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From: WESTCHESTER
Clutch Adjustment Cause Wear?
I would like to now if adjusting the clutch on the G35 will cause premature wear. A read allot of threads, but they all vary in responce. Does anyone now for sure weather or not it causes wear problems. Thanks for your help
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I think there is risk because that clutch pedal needs to be depressed all the way
to the floor to completely disengage during the 1-2 shift. If you alter the
engagement point to be closer to the floor you may not be completely
disengaging... I could be wrong, but just speculating.
to the floor to completely disengage during the 1-2 shift. If you alter the
engagement point to be closer to the floor you may not be completely
disengaging... I could be wrong, but just speculating.
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I just changed my clutch position earlier tonight and I love the new feel.
I also am not sure though if I'm causing any problems with it. It seems to fully disengage when I depress it all the way to the floor, so I think it's ok but just not sure.
Anyone else?
I also am not sure though if I'm causing any problems with it. It seems to fully disengage when I depress it all the way to the floor, so I think it's ok but just not sure.
Anyone else?
A member once made this point during one of these discussions, and it really made sense to me:
While adjusting the clutch engagement point might cause premature wear, the trade-off is enjoying the drive a lot more. It's a wear item and you will replace it eventually anyway.
I'd like to add, my current commuter POS '03 Chevy Cavalier (used while I worked on my '55 Chevy project) has the same high clutch engagement point. It has 5K miles of city driving on it, and the clutch seems close to needing replacement. The high engagement point promotes some slipping of the clutch, IMO. It's simply doesn't feel natural to have such a high engagement point... ...unless your driving an old tractor.
FWIW, 4 out of 6 of my cars have had manual transmissions, and none of the others ever needed a clutch replacement. Those ranged from 20K-78K miles, so forget about thinking that it's the technique that has caused the excessive wear on this POS Cavalier. I do fine driving stick... ...except when a clutch pedal doesn't engage until the last 2 inches of travel.
My point is that the high engagement point might encourage excessive wear also AND it proves a sucky experience. I'll adjust my G's engagement point ASAP after delivery and enjoy the drive. The clutch can be replaced, but your driving experience with the car is etched into your memory forever.
While adjusting the clutch engagement point might cause premature wear, the trade-off is enjoying the drive a lot more. It's a wear item and you will replace it eventually anyway.
I'd like to add, my current commuter POS '03 Chevy Cavalier (used while I worked on my '55 Chevy project) has the same high clutch engagement point. It has 5K miles of city driving on it, and the clutch seems close to needing replacement. The high engagement point promotes some slipping of the clutch, IMO. It's simply doesn't feel natural to have such a high engagement point... ...unless your driving an old tractor.
FWIW, 4 out of 6 of my cars have had manual transmissions, and none of the others ever needed a clutch replacement. Those ranged from 20K-78K miles, so forget about thinking that it's the technique that has caused the excessive wear on this POS Cavalier. I do fine driving stick... ...except when a clutch pedal doesn't engage until the last 2 inches of travel.
My point is that the high engagement point might encourage excessive wear also AND it proves a sucky experience. I'll adjust my G's engagement point ASAP after delivery and enjoy the drive. The clutch can be replaced, but your driving experience with the car is etched into your memory forever.
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From: Arkansas
One thing... definitely make sure that you can let the clutch pedal up just a little bit off the floor before it starts to engage. Not like the stock travel so it goes about halfway up... but at least a little bit. Then make sure you are holding the pedal all the way to the floor while at a stop light!! Or just put it in neutral if your leg gets tired. I notice that my leg tends to relax a bit and then you start to "slip" the clutch, where it will definitely start to cause wear. Other than that I have never noticed any problems.
I had 4 Nissan 240SX's before my G. They all had the same clutch adjustment type system. I adjusted all of them so the clutch would engage the tranny closer to the floor. I got more than 150k miles out of every single one without wearing out the clutch. The first 3 240's I bought with ~100k miles on them and adjusted the clutch immediately. The last one I bought with ~70k miles on it and adjusted it immediately. I drove it for over 70k miles with the clutch adjusted and it never went out. It had a total of 145k miles on it when I got rid of it, all on the original clutch, half of which were after being adjusted.
To conclude... I would say that if it does cause any extra wear, then the amount is very small, and has little impact on the life expectancy of the clutch. But also... the people that were adjusting like 6-8 turns sure seem like that would overdo it and possibly cause the clutch to never fully release the tranny even when the pedal is all the way down. It only took about 1.5 turns on my G to put the engage point about 1 inch off the floor, which is right when I like it. maybe their clutches were out of adjustment to begin with though... who knows.
I had 4 Nissan 240SX's before my G. They all had the same clutch adjustment type system. I adjusted all of them so the clutch would engage the tranny closer to the floor. I got more than 150k miles out of every single one without wearing out the clutch. The first 3 240's I bought with ~100k miles on them and adjusted the clutch immediately. The last one I bought with ~70k miles on it and adjusted it immediately. I drove it for over 70k miles with the clutch adjusted and it never went out. It had a total of 145k miles on it when I got rid of it, all on the original clutch, half of which were after being adjusted.
To conclude... I would say that if it does cause any extra wear, then the amount is very small, and has little impact on the life expectancy of the clutch. But also... the people that were adjusting like 6-8 turns sure seem like that would overdo it and possibly cause the clutch to never fully release the tranny even when the pedal is all the way down. It only took about 1.5 turns on my G to put the engage point about 1 inch off the floor, which is right when I like it. maybe their clutches were out of adjustment to begin with though... who knows.
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>pedal all the way to the floor while at a stop light!!
You should put the car in N anyway so that you prolong the life of your
throwout bearing.
You should put the car in N anyway so that you prolong the life of your
throwout bearing.
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This is a really good thread. I shunned the idea at first thinking it was destructive tinkering, but I consider it now. I agree that the engagement point is high. I will see if I can deal with it or not. If no, I will likely make the change.
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Honda civic has a high engagement point too. It was even worse than the G.
I drove my brother's civic around for a day and I jolted the car around at
every light.
I'm pretty much used to the G's high engagement point now. Sometimes I
still jolt the car because I let out the clutch too fast, but otherwise, I've
adapted to driving it smoothly.
I drove my brother's civic around for a day and I jolted the car around at
every light.
I'm pretty much used to the G's high engagement point now. Sometimes I
still jolt the car because I let out the clutch too fast, but otherwise, I've
adapted to driving it smoothly.
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Shorten the Clutch travel, don't Elongate it
moving the clutch down to have it engage off the floor isn't what you want to do. Right now the stock G engages about half way through the clutch travel. What you want is a clutch stop to stop your foot from going passed engagement any farther than you need to. Making it so you need to push the clutch to the floor makes no sense. That makes it take longer to shift and requires more effort from you.
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Originally Posted by Superman
moving the clutch down to have it engage off the floor isn't what you want to do. Right now the stock G engages about half way through the clutch travel. What you want is a clutch stop to stop your foot from going passed engagement any farther than you need to. Making it so you need to push the clutch to the floor makes no sense. That makes it take longer to shift and requires more effort from you.
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Originally Posted by Superman
moving the clutch down to have it engage off the floor isn't what you want to do. Right now the stock G engages about half way through the clutch travel. What you want is a clutch stop to stop your foot from going passed engagement any farther than you need to. Making it so you need to push the clutch to the floor makes no sense. That makes it take longer to shift and requires more effort from you.
The clutch pedal needs to be all the way to the floor for the clutch to
DISENGAGE.
The clutch pedal needs to travel at least half way up off the floor for the
clutch to ENGAGE.
Adjusting the nut behind the pedal will adjust the ENGAGEMENT point,
not the DISENGAGEMENT point.
Do NOT install a clutch stop on your G35. Leave that for the E36 M3 guys.
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Originally Posted by JoeyG35
What are you talking about??
The clutch pedal needs to be all the way to the floor for the clutch to
DISENGAGE.
The clutch pedal needs to travel at least half way up off the floor for the
clutch to ENGAGE.
Adjusting the nut behind the pedal will adjust the ENGAGEMENT point,
not the DISENGAGEMENT point.
Do NOT install a clutch stop on your G35. Leave that for the E36 M3 guys.
The clutch pedal needs to be all the way to the floor for the clutch to
DISENGAGE.
The clutch pedal needs to travel at least half way up off the floor for the
clutch to ENGAGE.
Adjusting the nut behind the pedal will adjust the ENGAGEMENT point,
not the DISENGAGEMENT point.
Do NOT install a clutch stop on your G35. Leave that for the E36 M3 guys.
So it's a nut behind the pedal? I don't have a G yet but curious.
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From: Near Philly, PA
Originally Posted by JoeyG35
What are you talking about??
The clutch pedal needs to be all the way to the floor for the clutch to
DISENGAGE.
The clutch pedal needs to travel at least half way up off the floor for the
clutch to ENGAGE.
Adjusting the nut behind the pedal will adjust the ENGAGEMENT point,
not the DISENGAGEMENT point.
Do NOT install a clutch stop on your G35. Leave that for the E36 M3 guys.
The clutch pedal needs to be all the way to the floor for the clutch to
DISENGAGE.
The clutch pedal needs to travel at least half way up off the floor for the
clutch to ENGAGE.
Adjusting the nut behind the pedal will adjust the ENGAGEMENT point,
not the DISENGAGEMENT point.
Do NOT install a clutch stop on your G35. Leave that for the E36 M3 guys.
Wait a sec...help me understand...why would the engagement point be different from the disengagement point? I don't have to put the clutch to the floor in my G to disengage it, and never had to with my 300ZX either, and was still on the original clutch at 78K miles when I sold the car.