exactly...dyno sheets prove it

 

bang for the buck, there is no substitute for even the simplest forced induction kit vs. all those bolt-ons... As stated, ricer math does not work. Also, it's how a certain combination of the right parts, how they work together, and the tune that will dictate the final hp gain. That coupled with the fact that you're already dealing with an effecient motor, and the gains are much smaller. I would rather leave the motor bone stock. Save for a vortech or TT kit, and get a competent tuner.

 

agree completely with drag mode. save upp allll that money except maybe for high flow cats or test pipes. all that money your gonna spend will come upto the price of a SC. bolt ons will work much better, if you still want them, after a FI setup.

 

hey what add on adds the most power? and which brand is the best for that add on?

 

1 Vote for "Best Thread of the Year"!

 

You can't just add up all the power listed for the mods. They are overrated from the manufacturers for advertising perposes for one thing, and when you do multiple mods, you just can't add up the numbers and say that is the power you gained because you will gain far less than what simple math would suggest. That is just the way it works.

 

Dude, I want to be the guy running the highflow cats and the test pipes on my car... Couple that with the 5hp/3 tq grounding wires and my ride will be the shiznit...

Sorry, that's as nice as I could be after reading that post... then again he only has 11 posts, maybe he really doesn't know.

Try this...

Headers: +15 hp / 18 tq $600 Cams: +13 hp / 15 tq $1000Grounding Kit: +5 hp / 3 tq $100 Test Pipes: +16 hp / 20 tq $289 High Flow Cats: +9 hp / 12 tq $455 Pully's: +15-18 hp / 20 tq $324 Exhaust: +14/18 hp / 18 tq $1000 Intake (Cold Air): 14 hp / 12 tq $250

 

Once again....It is very hard to squeeze much more out of the VQ without FI, as it is tuned really well from the factory!

I would have to say my "Best bang for the Buck" mods would definately be:

Wheels / Tires
Springs / Sway Bars

Now I can get the power the car does have.....to the pavement!

 

technosquare reflash...injen cai + fiberglass spitt'n injen exhaust + dc headers are my goals...seams like I should be at 315 at the crank...with that..my main concern is torque...how to improve low end torque seems like every mod robs lowend and gains high.

 

yes I agree

 

i just had some mods done over the weekend...let me just say, the numbers from the manufacturers are wayyyyy over inflated...i first dynoed my car with the kinetix plenum, z tube, and pop charger at 235wrhp..later that same day i installed kinetix HF Cats, jic y-pipe, fujitsubo exhaust and dynoed at 242...wtf...this should be proof that these so called mods are a total waste of $$$...the exhaust alone should have given me 8rwhp...i still need to get my ur pulley installed...i'm looking forward to gaining 1 additional hp...yippe...
FI is the way to go...as Dollar99 would put it, those are all "mickey mouse mods"...in fact, i was so disapappointed that i decided not to share my dyno graphs...

 

sorry to hear that.... but thanks for letting us would-be modders in on the info. i've also been following people's mods and have not been seriously impressed with the numbers. looks like your paying a large premium for something that doesn't gain u too much. thanks for sharing... and nice rims

 

don't forget the 10hp you gain from the roll call on the side of your car!

 

thanks randy...hahha...btw, the dyno was done with my 20"..maybe my numbers would of increased by 2hp if i had a set of 18" or 17"..hahhaa

 

With those mods you will void your warantee.
After everything I've read and seen I think the best mod would be a plenum or a spacer combined with an exhaust mod. 8-10 hp peak, much less drop off near redline and no loss with a slight gain in the low end and also helps a/f ratio. Most people only focus on peak hp numbers but if you look at the entire graph I believe this mod is the best bang for the buck.