0w 30 Mobil1 Oil
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Cleveland, OH
The "W" in 0W-, 5W-, 10W-, etc. stands for "Winter" as opposed to SAE 30 (30 Weight) oil or the like. The lower the number BEFORE the "W" means the lower temperature rating the oil can stay fluid enough to lubricate. Someone in a post aboved mentioned the oil being so light as to leak. That's because this oil is made to be used in extremely cold weather (below 0F). Not hotter climates!
The second number (e.g. -30 or -40) is the viscosity range that the oil has to withstand hotter temperatures. Most oil sold nowadays is 5W-30 or 10W-30 as opposed to 10W-40 which used to be sold much more several years ago. The reason why you don't see as much -40 oil today is because the number of additives necessary to give oil that range would eventually burn away giving less protection in the long run.
If you live in a hot climate (were the coldest temps are around 20-30F) you'll be perfectly fine wtih 10W-30. 5W is ok, but 0W could actually give you too little viscosity to protect. If you live where the coldest temp is about 0F, then 5W-30 is ideal. I would only use 0W-30 if I lived were the temperatures are expected to be below 0 consistently in the winter months AND only use that grade of oil during those months and switch to 5W-30 for the rest of the year.
The second number (e.g. -30 or -40) is the viscosity range that the oil has to withstand hotter temperatures. Most oil sold nowadays is 5W-30 or 10W-30 as opposed to 10W-40 which used to be sold much more several years ago. The reason why you don't see as much -40 oil today is because the number of additives necessary to give oil that range would eventually burn away giving less protection in the long run.
If you live in a hot climate (were the coldest temps are around 20-30F) you'll be perfectly fine wtih 10W-30. 5W is ok, but 0W could actually give you too little viscosity to protect. If you live where the coldest temp is about 0F, then 5W-30 is ideal. I would only use 0W-30 if I lived were the temperatures are expected to be below 0 consistently in the winter months AND only use that grade of oil during those months and switch to 5W-30 for the rest of the year.
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From: 21°18'54.33" N, 158°05'55.47" W
5w30 is perfect.
not too sweet, not too rancid, but juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust right!
An old trick I was suggested to do was add heavier oil weight to my gas on my two-stroke GP racebike. It gave the bike some increased torque, not much...but an increase. I used to find myself sliding the back tire exiting some turns on our track. I'm not saying add oil to your gas, but would a heavier weight oil affect the VQ in such a way?
not too sweet, not too rancid, but juuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuust right!
An old trick I was suggested to do was add heavier oil weight to my gas on my two-stroke GP racebike. It gave the bike some increased torque, not much...but an increase. I used to find myself sliding the back tire exiting some turns on our track. I'm not saying add oil to your gas, but would a heavier weight oil affect the VQ in such a way?
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Vegas
Originally Posted by Memphis
I'd be very careful in recommending that a car that is to be operated in a warm climate use the 0W oil.
Below is an excerpt from "How Stuff Works" that explains the numbering convention very well.
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
As a Chemical Engineer, I will tell you that you do not want to have a 0W viscosity in your motor when starting in hot weather.....it WILL aid in reducing the life of your motor. Porsche uses a coating (Nikasil) in their motor's cylinders that allows for the use of the 0W. There are different expansivity coefficients that come into play between the close tolerances of the rings and the cylinder walls, where the coating works with the oil to keep compression high but not wear. Our Infiniti motors are different and have spec's for 5W for a reason......I wouldn't recommend starting our motors with 0W. However, you are entitled to think and do whatever you want.
Below is an excerpt from "How Stuff Works" that explains the numbering convention very well.
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
As a Chemical Engineer, I will tell you that you do not want to have a 0W viscosity in your motor when starting in hot weather.....it WILL aid in reducing the life of your motor. Porsche uses a coating (Nikasil) in their motor's cylinders that allows for the use of the 0W. There are different expansivity coefficients that come into play between the close tolerances of the rings and the cylinder walls, where the coating works with the oil to keep compression high but not wear. Our Infiniti motors are different and have spec's for 5W for a reason......I wouldn't recommend starting our motors with 0W. However, you are entitled to think and do whatever you want.
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be careful of the advice you get on this board.....people swore up and down that the pop charger and ztube was the best intake solution....then after there was mass power loss among the believers....then same people started throwing in disclaimers. I have 0-40 mobil 1 right now ...me engine seems to like it....I'll try 5-50 next oil change just to be on the safe side....
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Cambridge, Ont. Canada
I'm inclined to do the same thing. 0W30 is probably a great oil in the cooler climates, but in hot climates, the 0 weight oil just won't protect your engine during warmup.
To me there's no reason to deviate from the manufacturer's suggestions.
C.
To me there's no reason to deviate from the manufacturer's suggestions.
C.
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So what's the tradeoff to having a low number before the W and a higher number after?
IE: Why would someone want the less viscosous "0W" oil as opposed to "10W" oil (the person lives in cold climate)
Also, why wouldn't someone want the highest possible number after the W (10W-60 instead of 10W-30) if it protects better at higher heats?
IE: Why would someone want the less viscosous "0W" oil as opposed to "10W" oil (the person lives in cold climate)
Also, why wouldn't someone want the highest possible number after the W (10W-60 instead of 10W-30) if it protects better at higher heats?
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Originally Posted by flightz71
So what's the tradeoff to having a low number before the W and a higher number after?
IE: Why would someone want the less viscosous "0W" oil as opposed to "10W" oil (the person lives in cold climate)
Also, why wouldn't someone want the highest possible number after the W (10W-60 instead of 10W-30) if it protects better at higher heats?
IE: Why would someone want the less viscosous "0W" oil as opposed to "10W" oil (the person lives in cold climate)
Also, why wouldn't someone want the highest possible number after the W (10W-60 instead of 10W-30) if it protects better at higher heats?
You want the lower number in cold climates to protect when you start the engine. If it's really cold and your oil is too viscous it's not going to lubricate well on start and you will damage the engine. The reason people don't necessarly go for the highest number for the hot weight is that the higher it is, the thicker the oil is. This will hinder your performance some since the pistons have more resistance to moving due to the thick oil. What you want is to get the oil that is most efficent for the weather that you live in.
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