0w 30 Mobil1 Oil
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 9,524
Likes: 3
From: So. Cali - Rowland Hts
0w 30 Mobil1 Oil
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lub...bil1_0W-30.asp
just letting you guys know such a thing exist =).. was doing a oil change and a couple buddies of mine were talking about it (using 5w-30)..
anyways the 0w-30 sounds pretty good.. especially for us cali guys.. hmm now i need is the mobil1 oil filter..
just letting you guys know such a thing exist =).. was doing a oil change and a couple buddies of mine were talking about it (using 5w-30)..
anyways the 0w-30 sounds pretty good.. especially for us cali guys.. hmm now i need is the mobil1 oil filter..
I always tell myself i'm gonna look it up...but yeh...i'm a noob. Can someone explain the viscosities of the oil to me? IE: What's the advantage of using 0w-30 over 0w-40? How about 0w-30 vs. 5w-30 vs. 10w-30?
Also...have you guys seen the type of oil M3's use? 10W-60
I heard BMW custom ordered this type for oil from castrol just for the m3.
Also...have you guys seen the type of oil M3's use? 10W-60
I heard BMW custom ordered this type for oil from castrol just for the m3.
Originally Posted by flightz71
I always tell myself i'm gonna look it up...but yeh...i'm a noob. Can someone explain the viscosities of the oil to me? IE: What's the advantage of using 0w-30 over 0w-40? How about 0w-30 vs. 5w-30 vs. 10w-30?
Also...have you guys seen the type of oil M3's use? 10W-60
I heard BMW custom ordered this type for oil from castrol just for the m3.
Also...have you guys seen the type of oil M3's use? 10W-60
I heard BMW custom ordered this type for oil from castrol just for the m3.
Originally Posted by Panman1978
0W-40 just flows better when it's cold. It acts like a 0W when the temp is below 40 degrees. When it heats up, it acts as 40W for better protection.
Same thing goes for 5W-30 and 10W-30.
0W gives less protection then the more viscous weights. I myself stick to 5W-30 M1. Some track cars run single weight 50W since they don't encounter frequent cold starts. However, heavier weights can rob some performance and fuel economy. The heavier it is, the "thicker" the oil. This means the crank/internals have more resistance with the oil.
Same thing goes for 5W-30 and 10W-30.
0W gives less protection then the more viscous weights. I myself stick to 5W-30 M1. Some track cars run single weight 50W since they don't encounter frequent cold starts. However, heavier weights can rob some performance and fuel economy. The heavier it is, the "thicker" the oil. This means the crank/internals have more resistance with the oil.
-some jealousy...
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I agree with Panman, I would NOT use the 0W-30 oil if I lived in a Hot Climate area.....that oil is to provide the 0W viscosity for Cold Weather start-ups. If you live in an area that gets hot, you will want the 5W weight to provide the viscosity needed to prevent wear & tear at start-up.......for those of us in the southern US, use the 5W-30 weight oil as spec'd.
To answer the question up above.
The difference between 0W-30 and 0W-40 is that the 0W-40 has a higher heat rating.....meaning it can handle higher temps.
In the south, I would definitely use 0W-40.
Just an FYI, the 0W part refers to the thickness of the oil. The thinner the oil, the better it is in my opinion. It's much better for performance and cold starts.
The difference between 0W-30 and 0W-40 is that the 0W-40 has a higher heat rating.....meaning it can handle higher temps.
In the south, I would definitely use 0W-40.
Just an FYI, the 0W part refers to the thickness of the oil. The thinner the oil, the better it is in my opinion. It's much better for performance and cold starts.
I'd be very careful in recommending that a car that is to be operated in a warm climate use the 0W oil.
Below is an excerpt from "How Stuff Works" that explains the numbering convention very well.
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
As a Chemical Engineer, I will tell you that you do not want to have a 0W viscosity in your motor when starting in hot weather.....it WILL aid in reducing the life of your motor. Porsche uses a coating (Nikasil) in their motor's cylinders that allows for the use of the 0W. There are different expansivity coefficients that come into play between the close tolerances of the rings and the cylinder walls, where the coating works with the oil to keep compression high but not wear. Our Infiniti motors are different and have spec's for 5W for a reason......I wouldn't recommend starting our motors with 0W. However, you are entitled to think and do whatever you want.
Below is an excerpt from "How Stuff Works" that explains the numbering convention very well.
Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature.
As a Chemical Engineer, I will tell you that you do not want to have a 0W viscosity in your motor when starting in hot weather.....it WILL aid in reducing the life of your motor. Porsche uses a coating (Nikasil) in their motor's cylinders that allows for the use of the 0W. There are different expansivity coefficients that come into play between the close tolerances of the rings and the cylinder walls, where the coating works with the oil to keep compression high but not wear. Our Infiniti motors are different and have spec's for 5W for a reason......I wouldn't recommend starting our motors with 0W. However, you are entitled to think and do whatever you want.
I'm not entirely sure why people want to find a different oil that will supposely be better than what's factory recommended. Did Infiniti engineers perhaps think the g35 would only be in cool weather temps?
Also, if hot weather is the concern, 10w-30 would be a better bet if anything imo. Some supra people swear by 15w-50 in hot weather and moddied conditions which is probably more understandable seeing how those cars are putting out twice as much power as factory...on a stock or bolt on G35? Stick to what's recommended. Just my 2 cents.
Also, if hot weather is the concern, 10w-30 would be a better bet if anything imo. Some supra people swear by 15w-50 in hot weather and moddied conditions which is probably more understandable seeing how those cars are putting out twice as much power as factory...on a stock or bolt on G35? Stick to what's recommended. Just my 2 cents.


