Wow, yooses is all very knowledgeable! I guess:

1) J-Matic only for tranny
2) BiTron is ok to use, but it's expensive
3) Rear diff (embarassing to have mixed it up with LSD), should use Nissan stuff too
4) Guess no one's used Lube Control Fuel Power yet - dare I be the first?

 

1) yes, if 5AT.
2) Don't know, but Redline Fuel System Cleaner is safe to use. Nothing in it is corrosive to fuel lines, seals, etc. It doesn't fall into the category of what Infiniti recommends against. Visit www.redlineoil.com for technical info.
3) Not necessarily. Lots of choices out there. Just make sure it's GL-5, 80W-90, or a synthetic 75W-90.
4) Sounds like snake oil to me. Just change your oil regularly and you should be fine.

 

I been a solid AMSOIL user since 2001. I never had any problems with it. I used it on my 2001 Prelude which i raced on a track in hot 90+ degree days with no issues. I also been using it on my 03 ever since 1000 miles and it has 24k now with no issues.

For my 05 i switch oil at 641 miles to AMSOIL and i will never wanna go back to anything else.

As far as tranny fluid goes. I can say one thing... i used Amsoil tranny fluid on the prelude and its good stuff. I know a lof of others who used it as well. I know the shifts are smoother and tranny in winter was smoother as well.
I"m hoping that nissan can come out with specs for the oil. Only reason being is that i doubt they would create their own batch of oil just for our cars/ current nissan line up. Unless they asked mobil or someone else to design it for them. I'm thinking its equal to the current stuff thats on the market.

 

mobil1 5W30 for my engine, Redline for my 6MT and differentil

 

Why would you want to use thicker oil on a new car. you can get away with using 5w30 for a while. Especially with current synthetic motor oils, they can withstand high temps without breaking down and are capable of going over 7,000 miles.

i would only use 10w if my car is going over 60k miles and in a freaking desert. Even then you better of switching the thermostat which is much better.

 

I use Mobil1 10W30 on my car, I don't need the low temp characteristics here in since it never gets below 60 degress, and rarely gets below 70. I don't have any problems with oil consumption either, I suspect that maybe the low viscosity oils may have something to do with this. In the manual is says 10W30 is ok for for above freezing climate.

 

5w30 is thiner and lighter so it gets in between tight spaces better. I dont see a need to use 10w cause there is no need.
Its not even from the tempeture stand point. Just in general newer engines could use 5w without any issues. Some newer cars even tell you to use 0w30 cause engine is designed around those type of oils.
PLus the thicker the oil the more engine strugles through it. ***I'm not saying its a lot of struggle. but in general 5w or even 0w oils can increas your MPG distance.

 

Any thoughts on Torco?
I may be leaving Amsoil and be going that route since my sponcer carries them.

 

I've heard it's great stuff too, but I'd be afraid to use it during warranty period because it's not API certified. They say it passes API spec, but they refuse to pay to have it certified. I don't know why. Not sure how Nissan would ever know if you used Amsoil vs. Redline or Royal Purple in a diffy or motor that failed under warranty, but with two other great API certified products on the market, why take the chance?

 

can you guys really tell the difference between oils? no matter what I put in my car it always feels the same, gets the same mileage and sounds the same. A lot of guys seem partial to Amsoil, but if you're going to change at 4K to 5K anyways is there a real benefit to it? Sure it can't hurt but does it help?

 

I say just break-in for 1000-1500 miles and then switch to castrol start-up 10w-30 for another 1000-1500 miles. Repeat with the castrol start-up one more time if you decided to go only 1000 miles on the other oil changes. Hopefully after 3000 miles the motor will be fully broken in and then you can switch to castrol syntec 0w-30. Castrol syntec 0w-30 is still the only over the counter 30 weight that is porsche approved. If this oil will hold up in a porsche, it will do fine in your g35. Also dont forget to change mtf every 15,000 miles using nissan mtf.

 

I can personally tell how the engine runs smoother and better when you just switch oil from dirty to new. I think a lot of guys out there can back me up on that.

As far as waiting to 1000 miles to break in the engine is completly not worth it. PLUS why on earth would you use 10w30. that is the most strangest things i ever heard.

Your engine break in period is probably crusial in the first 10-100 miles. Thats when all the new parts are rubbing against eachother and wearing down.. grinding down and trying work with one another. SO you going to help it by using 10w30 why. You should use whats intended and then switch out the oil as soon as you can and get rid of all the metal shavings if there are any from the engine by draining the oil. Same thing goes for your tranny.

When my tranny had a failure at 2k miles (1 month after i got the car) they found quiet a few metal shavings. SO that goes to show you that they been there from day 1 when i started driving.

 

Why 10W30? Well for climates around here in CA or in FL, year-round summer, it's best to use 10W30.

 

where do you hear this from? A car is designed to run on 5w30 even in hot weather. If your cooling system is working as it should, then you dont need to run such thicker oil.

 

I've seen the dealer put in 10w-30 as standard practice in the summer in so-cal. I've seen this from about 5 different dealers so its not unusual.