What is considered the best way to preserve the performance and longetivity of a cluth? I live in LA so most of my driving is in stop and go traffic. Is it best to shift to neutral between each 5 foot move forward or just hold the clutch down?

Also what worries me is to move the car slowly over a short distance it's difficult to fully release the clutch. So usually can only get the clutch about halfway out before it's time to stop again.

And whats the take on downshifting? I always figured $40 brake pads is easier to replace than a $500-$700 clutch (replacement clutch on my '95 Trans Am was $700 and yes I shopped around like crazy).

I guess rev matched downshifting would give the best of both worlds? Thats a skill I have yet to even attempt let alone master.

Anyway just looking for the advice of some of you clutch experts out there.

 

On your first point, it's probably easier on the hydraulics, release fork, TO bearing, etc. if you just hold it down instead of clutching, de-clutching, clutching, de-clutching, etc. although I doubt there's significant enough difference to worry about it.

As for slipping the clutch on slight movements, also not something you can do much about, although I usually like to try to let the clutch all the way out whenever possible. Sometimes in traffic I'll just wait until everybody can move to engage the clutch. I don't tend to creep.

As for downshifting, you are spot on that brake pads are much cheaper than clutches. Besides the added clutch wear, downshifting to slow the car is not a great idea anyway, as it can really unsettle the car's balance, causing oversteer or at worst, a spin. Heel and toe rev-matching during downshifts helps you avoid the clutch wear and lurching, but the purpose of it is really to allow smooth downshifts to help power the car out of the next corner. It's not intended to help you slow the car down with the engine.

Now, that aside, using engine braking can be useful in some situations, like descending a steep, slippery hill. But just make sure to rev-match if you're downshifting into that scenario, or climb the grade in the gear you intend to use on the way down.

 

Rule #1 for clutch longevity is to keep the slipping of it to a minium. For a long time, I was fussing at my wife that holding the engine at 1500-2000+ rpm to pull away from a stop was VERY abusive to the clutch. A fairly rapid release from Idle, or just off idle is the easiest on it. This is my 4th stick car that I drive in Ft Lauderdale/Miami Traffic and I have yet to wear one out.

Even with my 3rd Gen RX-7, torqueless wonder off idle, I did not have to rev the **** out of to get moving. Just takes practice. A few hard slips can seriously kill the clutches life. If you are racing and holding at 3000+ RPM and slipping to get a good launch, be aware you may get a good launch, but it definately is the most abusive thing you can do to a clutch. In stop and go traffic, if the car in front of me moves 5 feet, I don't move. I patiently wait till there's a bigger gap so I slip once and not twice or more for the same distance. That's pretty much the key to clutch longevity.

 

Yeah, I try not to creep either. Actually just had my front end re-painted to get rid of rock chips. Still debating if I want to go with the clear bra but I have to wait a month for the paint to set anyway. In the meantime I've been keeping a good distance from the car in front of me at all times.

Anyway, thanks for the advice guys!

 

One caveat: holding down the clutch wears out the throw-out bearing, so you really shouldn't hold it down for a long time if not necessary.
Also, while it is true that brakes are cheaper than clutches, I think you'll be surprised if you're expecting to only pay $40 for brake pads on a G35 (esp if you have Brembos, like me)