Ok I posted this in the technical forum but havent gotten many responses.

I wanted to get a sub for the G and was thinking around the lines of a JL 10w3 v2 with an alpine amp.

I want to keep the stock highs and I dont want my G to be G-etto Blaster. I just want something to Take over when the stock Bass cuts out after turning it up.

My concerns are rattles outside and inside the car I dont want any or minimal if possibe.

Also for all of you that have tried this set up where did you tap into the signal from the deck?

Any help is appreciated, thanx guys!

 

GFORCE,
I haven't personally done any upgrades to the system yet but maybe I will in the future so I could only tell you what I've read about the BOSE amp. According to most it is located in the trunk and although I don't know which I believe most people have tapped the signal from that point.

The article I saw about this was actually on freshalloy.com so I would check there for wiring diagrams. I have been installing and tuning systems in my cars for years so I consider myself more than competant in the subject. First thing I must say is that any time you add aftermarket Bass to stock system this can create an unbalancing effect caused by too much power in the Lower frequencies.

This can actually make things sound worse. One JL or Boston Accoustics Pro series ten should be fine but you should make sure you keep the bass volume turned down. I would also recommend buying an AMP with a good sub cross-over. This will make sure that you can match frequency envelope of the other speakers so you don't have too much bass at a particular frequency. Also make sure the rear deck speakers have baffles as the bass reflex wave can actually distort or destroy them over time.

Everyone has preferences but in my experience Alpine AMPs have always sucked and are not a good choice as a sub amp. I would look along the lines of a Soundstream, Precision Power, or Pheonix Gold series AMP. Also, why a JL W3? I no need for a high voltage sub designed for low impedence bridging.

I think a standard single 10" w4 would work great, cost less and still give you the output you want. Another idea when you do the install to prevent excessive vibrations and noise try these tips:

1: DYNOMAT! Dynomat the whole trunk, especially the trunk lid. Dynomat is a sound deadening material found at almost every stereo shop.

2: Use MDF or HDF wood on the box. These are higher density woods and less subject to air leaks, moisture damage and dampen the bass to prevent irregular frequency response.

3. It sounds silly but add some Dynomat to the back of the License plate frame holder, and see if you can find some way to mount the plate with screws at the bottom as well as the top. It sounds funny but that stupid piece of tin on the back is usually the biggest culprit of that nasty "ghetto rattle". [img]/w3timages/icons/smile.gif[/img]

Hope that helps and let me know if you have anymore questions. Peace. [img]/w3timages/icons/cool.gif[/img]

-Jason
Laser Red '03 6MT

 

Yeah I hear ya I was never a huge fan Of Alpine power supplies either but Figured since I wasn't going all out it wouldn't be that big of a deal. I didn't think of the signal quality though thats a good point. I used to have 3 PPI amps in my last 2 acrs and I loved them so I guess I'd probably go with PPI again. Dynomat used to be my other friend too but in my last car (Prelude) no amount of Dynomat would do the trick.

And as for the license plate I laughed when I took them off to sell the car cause I still had some folded up cigarett packs stuffed behind there to stop it from rattling.

I do figure that the G is a bit more solid then the Lude thought At least it sure seems that way.

I was kinda hoping that someone on this forum had just added a Sub and an amp so I could get an Idea of how things turned out for them. I dont want to go crazy with the audio ssytem like I used to but I wouldn't mind a little bit of bass to fill in the gap. I will have the install done Professionally and I'd tell them to dynomat too. One question though, is there any way to dynomat the trunk Lid without it looking like crap? Something tells me it wouldn't look that pretty. Thanx for the help though!