There's nothing wrong with rims and tires, but they won't get you the same gains unless you are willing to step down to 17s maybe. The difference between my 19" Maya RT5s on Toyo T1S and my 17" FNO1Rs on Toyo RA1s is only about .3 seconds in the quarter mile.

And a panel filter won't get you anywhere near .5 seconds.

 

If you don't tell them, you could probably get away with it, and FI would surely void the warranty... My local servive manager told me this; he said he still would honor trim, electrical, suspension, etc. but the drivetrain would not be covered anymore; he said he has been through this before and Infiniti is frowning upon the claims some people are making after FI installations.

I would be willing to loose the warranty to install the FI due to all the gains, I just cant see investing a couple of thousand dollars in the ring & pinion set for such small gains...

I was asked for my opinion, that was my opinion.

Here it is again; IMHO it is not a good way to spend your money, save that and apply it to a good FI system!

 

Those of you who think that you can spend $5k-$10K or more on your cars - to make them go fast, are wasting your money by NOT putting gears in your cars. The basic fundamental need of transferring the power being generated effectively to the ground cannot be done efficiently under stock configurations. If I had it my way - and was building a 1/4 mile only car - I would have 4.6's or higher in the car - if they were made to begin with.

The reason you build the bottom end - is to get past it - the reason you build the top end - is so that something actually happens when you get there - the reason you put gears in a car is to that all of it works at the right time and the power gets to the pavement.

Argue against gears - but it's a stupid argument. In the G - the only argument is the lost cruise control - WOW lots of cruise potential in a 1/4 mile!!!

And don't tell me that you want to use your car for family trips and long cruises - after you put in FI or $6K worth of performance mods. Get real!

Further - if you think swapping out your factory forged wheels and tires (for replacements that are 20% lighter (5 lbs - maybe), and then go ahead and put on tires that are bigger and heavier as well - completely negating the weight issue to begin with) is going to give you a 1/2 sec. or somewhat near it - your on drugs boys! Put 15's on the car with 40 series tires - then you have a chance - but good luck on your speedo.

If you think FI will get you past the bottom end - and give you all the top end you want - your right - and then blow the car up much faster than anything. I have NEVER, in 20 years of building cars, found anyone with an FI car who did not have regular problems with their cars. It's the price you pay for those mods. Things start breaking very quickly.

BTW - I'm not bashing FI - I believe in it strongly - but think about this:

A job 99% completed - is still 99% uncompleted. If it isn't finished - it's like it hasn't been done at all. Finish the job - GEARS!

Anyways - that's my $5 worth!

 

Don't forget all - it's only fairly expensive if your AT - not too bad for MT, and much better gains and effectiveness, and more affordable, than $6K in wheels and tires...

 

Why do you guys keep saying that it's more expensive for AT? Am I missing something? I had the same stock LSD (except that it was a 3.2) that the MTs do. Where does the extra cost come from?

Maybe there's cost involved with a non-LSD, but '03 and '04 Coupes were available with LSDs.

 

First - AT have 3.3 gears - MT's have 3.5 gears

Second - the offset on the ring and pinion is different in the MT and AT differentials - THEY ARE NOT THE SAME DIFF's....

Third - The gears are designed for the MT offset - not the AT offset - so you have to buy an MT differential to use the gears in the first place.

Fourth - Third just doubled the cost of the parts.

Fifth - Read #6 post link below and hear it all in more detail

 

Hmmm... so a stock AT LSD can't be rebuilt into a 3.9 using the 350Evo gears. Interesting.

I don't think that it quite doubles the cost of parts. I picked up a 6mt pumpkin off of a Z for $500. But it is good to know.

 

Bull; you don't need the gears if your making the power, maybe you could use them if your not... My grandfather & dad built cars, and passed that down to me at a young age, I built my first small block chevy before my first briggs & stratton... I would not change the gears after installing FI, they are WAY low enough. And like I said earlier, one of the cars I had was an 82 Supra with alot of Cartech boost that I drove for years and passed down to my little brother for his graduation, he drive the car untill it died at 240,000 miles, drove it all over the country, running AC too!

I'm taking from experience, go waste your thousands, I think the poster should go FI, im talking from ALOT of expirience... Sounds stupid to think the gear ratio helps getting power to the ground, DUH! It only changes the ratio, it does not help traction, that comes from other rear end mods and they are not really neccessary unless you plan on truly racing the car... Most of your performance is appreciated between 40-150MPH, 0-60 is boring and this is the wrong car to attempt that in. (again IMO)

It's not a stupid argument, it's not an argument at all, these are facts proven by years of being involved with Japanese & American cars and bikes.

The perfect performance mods for a street G35 IMO;
A good FI system with much intercooling.
A good plenum or spacing for it.
A strong cluch for MT.
A good driver.
Maybe some rear end work to help traction. (no ratio change)
Lightwieght wheels & good tires.
A good aero kit.

All the rest is just extra and will make little difference overall.

I bet you don't even know the firing order of a small block chevy, the worlds most popular mass produced, most modded engine for 50 years. I knew it by heart at 12 years old and that was way back in the 70s... FYI - it's 18436572

Watch out who you call 'on drugs' cause it seems your the one trippin'

 

Yes - you can go to a junk yard and for $500-$650 pickup a 6MT pumpkin - but if you want new for new - you'll spend more.

All of my posts have stated this pretty well.

 

I bet the car is gutted pretty bad, I'm not taking anything out or off of the car... You would have to shave a good bit of weight to do this without FI.

 

I picked it up from someone who had swapped to a Nismo and it had 3000 miles on it. There was no junkyard involved.

Forgive me for not having read all of your posts, hopefully they weren't all quite as pretentious as this. Did you happen to include a time slip in any of those posts?

 

Not gutted at all..in fact - spare tire is still in the trunk...it's just done right.

 

Cool...still in the price range and virtually new...good show!

 

OK, it's obtainable, but most people that truly race the car, shed weight... I still don't get how anyone would want to strip this great street car... I guess some people really care about 0-60, this is still not the car to do that with IMO.

 

Cool down Chevy boy! I do know the firing order - and yes your correct.

I'm not saying the FI is NOT the way to go. I've built many FI cars - fully believe in it - and they have also been very reliable - if done right and well.

For me...I was a Ford man - 15426378 - I got that too. Then I went the route of the Z car - 81 Turbo - 83 Turbo - 94 TT and vintage blown stangs and camero's...same background man. Never built any of them without at lest 4.11's (Z's got 4.10's).

Everyone has their way of doing it...it's all opinion - some science - lots of experience - and mostly JUST FUN!

Move on...and back On-topic...