350 evo short final drive and nismo LSD
#31
10-26-2005, 01:04 AM
Originally Posted by htownboy
OK, it's obtainable, but most people that truly race the car, shed weight... I still don't get how anyone would want to strip this great street car... I guess some people really care about 0-60, this is still not the car to do that with IMO.
#32
10-26-2005, 01:07 AM
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
Cool down Chevy boy! I do know the firing order - and yes your correct.
I'm not saying the FI is NOT the way to go. I've built many FI cars - fully believe in it - and they have also been very reliable - if done right and well.
For me...I was a Ford man - 15426378 - I got that too. Then I went the route of the Z car - 81 Turbo - 83 Turbo - 94 TT and vintage blown stangs and camero's...same background man. Never built any of them without at lest 4.11's (Z's got 4.10's).
Everyone has their way of doing it...it's all opinion - some science - lots of experience - and mostly JUST FUN!
Move on...and back On-topic...
I'm not saying the FI is NOT the way to go. I've built many FI cars - fully believe in it - and they have also been very reliable - if done right and well.
For me...I was a Ford man - 15426378 - I got that too. Then I went the route of the Z car - 81 Turbo - 83 Turbo - 94 TT and vintage blown stangs and camero's...same background man. Never built any of them without at lest 4.11's (Z's got 4.10's).
Everyone has their way of doing it...it's all opinion - some science - lots of experience - and mostly JUST FUN!
Move on...and back On-topic...
The 3.9 ratio will certainly get you down the road\strip faster and would be a great deal around $500 for those who want the reduction, but $1700 seems very high to me. I would not do it to my G tho cause' its already pushing 3000RPMs at 80MPH.
#33
10-26-2005, 01:14 AM
Originally Posted by htownboy
Agreed - and yes, been down as low as 4.56 at times... It's a truce and I do appreciate your input, I guess I feel too strongly about people wasting money, but sometimes there's a reason to spend it so it's not a waste.
The 3.9 ratio will certainly get you down the road\strip faster and I would be a great deal around $500 for those who want the reduction, but $1700 seems very high to me. I would not do it to my G tho cause' its already pushing 3000RPMs at 80MPH.
The 3.9 ratio will certainly get you down the road\strip faster and I would be a great deal around $500 for those who want the reduction, but $1700 seems very high to me. I would not do it to my G tho cause' its already pushing 3000RPMs at 80MPH.
I think the price sucks - considering an good set of gears for most American cars run about $250. Lucky for me - price isn't an object - my object is to build it as fast as I can - non FI - and still get about 18MPG. I'd say being in the 12's and getting 18 MPG - I've been pretty successfully - especially when it all has cost me less than $5K.
Compare that with FI costs and bang for the buck.....not too bad.
#34
10-26-2005, 05:12 AM
Originally Posted by roneski
There's nothing wrong with rims and tires, but they won't get you the same gains unless you are willing to step down to 17s maybe. The difference between my 19" Maya RT5s on Toyo T1S and my 17" FNO1Rs on Toyo RA1s is only about .3 seconds in the quarter mile.
And a panel filter won't get you anywhere near .5 seconds.
And a panel filter won't get you anywhere near .5 seconds.
and about tires? comparing apples to oranges, I track my car rather than drag race it. over all, with DOT R tires I've shaved about 1.5 seconds off my average lap time.
#35
10-26-2005, 05:18 AM
Originally Posted by ISMSOLUTIONS
Further - if you think swapping out your factory forged wheels and tires (for replacements that are 20% lighter (5 lbs - maybe), and then go ahead and put on tires that are bigger and heavier as well - completely negating the weight issue to begin with) is going to give you a 1/2 sec. or somewhat near it - your on drugs boys! Put 15's on the car with 40 series tires - then you have a chance - but good luck on your speedo.
#36
10-26-2005, 06:46 AM
#37
10-26-2005, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 636Racer
that's why I wrote "probably"
and about tires? comparing apples to oranges, I track my car rather than drag race it. over all, with DOT R tires I've shaved about 1.5 seconds off my average lap time.
and about tires? comparing apples to oranges, I track my car rather than drag race it. over all, with DOT R tires I've shaved about 1.5 seconds off my average lap time.
#38
10-26-2005, 10:54 AM
Originally Posted by 636Racer
You missed that one totally. I was regarding road racing.
As far road racing - I don't disagree at all. In fact, it is more of a reason to have a Nismo or OS Giken Diff as well. For 1/4 mile and daily driving - you have to OEM VLSD - as the others are not really streetable.
#39
10-26-2005, 10:54 AM
#40
10-26-2005, 10:56 AM
ISMSolutions - Of course I've got another question on this. Do you drive on the highway? If so, what are you're cruising RPMs looking like.
I'm trying to calculate them. Stock, in 6th I'm doing 2700RPM at 70MPH and 3100RPM at 80MPH. A couple of hundred RPM can be added easily if I'm not really light on the throttle. With a redline of 7000RPM, a 10% reduction should equate to a 700RPM increase in any gear at any given speed. Is this about right? If so then 6th changes from:
2700RPM @70MPH -----> 3400RPM @70MPH
3100RPM @80MPH -----> 3800RPM @ 80MPH
It's early, so I may not be calculating properly. Is that about right, and is highway cruising above 70MPH a little wearing over long distances? I'm sure 90MPH stints during long trips would suddenly become too frenzied. I don't do much highway time and don't plan any trips over a few hours, but it could happen out of necessity at some point. But maybe that's why Enterprise is in business.
I'm trying to calculate them. Stock, in 6th I'm doing 2700RPM at 70MPH and 3100RPM at 80MPH. A couple of hundred RPM can be added easily if I'm not really light on the throttle. With a redline of 7000RPM, a 10% reduction should equate to a 700RPM increase in any gear at any given speed. Is this about right? If so then 6th changes from:
2700RPM @70MPH -----> 3400RPM @70MPH
3100RPM @80MPH -----> 3800RPM @ 80MPH
It's early, so I may not be calculating properly. Is that about right, and is highway cruising above 70MPH a little wearing over long distances? I'm sure 90MPH stints during long trips would suddenly become too frenzied. I don't do much highway time and don't plan any trips over a few hours, but it could happen out of necessity at some point. But maybe that's why Enterprise is in business.
#41
10-26-2005, 11:53 AM
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
ISMSolutions - Of course I've got another question on this. Do you drive on the highway? If so, what are you're cruising RPMs looking like.
I'm trying to calculate them. Stock, in 6th I'm doing 2700RPM at 70MPH and 3100RPM at 80MPH. A couple of hundred RPM can be added easily if I'm not really light on the throttle. With a redline of 7000RPM, a 10% reduction should equate to a 700RPM increase in any gear at any given speed. Is this about right? If so then 6th changes from:
2700RPM @70MPH -----> 3400RPM @70MPH
3100RPM @80MPH -----> 3800RPM @ 80MPH
It's early, so I may not be calculating properly. Is that about right, and is highway cruising above 70MPH a little wearing over long distances? I'm sure 90MPH stints during long trips would suddenly become too frenzied. I don't do much highway time and don't plan any trips over a few hours, but it could happen out of necessity at some point. But maybe that's why Enterprise is in business.
I'm trying to calculate them. Stock, in 6th I'm doing 2700RPM at 70MPH and 3100RPM at 80MPH. A couple of hundred RPM can be added easily if I'm not really light on the throttle. With a redline of 7000RPM, a 10% reduction should equate to a 700RPM increase in any gear at any given speed. Is this about right? If so then 6th changes from:
2700RPM @70MPH -----> 3400RPM @70MPH
3100RPM @80MPH -----> 3800RPM @ 80MPH
It's early, so I may not be calculating properly. Is that about right, and is highway cruising above 70MPH a little wearing over long distances? I'm sure 90MPH stints during long trips would suddenly become too frenzied. I don't do much highway time and don't plan any trips over a few hours, but it could happen out of necessity at some point. But maybe that's why Enterprise is in business.
If your MT - I would expect a 300-400 RPM change as well...could be less.
#42
10-26-2005, 11:59 AM
So the 700RPM increase I calculated is a bit high compared to your real-world observations? I understand you're AT and I'm MT, but the same ratio should result in pretty similar RPMs regardless, correct?
I could live with a 300-400RPM increase pretty easily.
I could live with a 300-400RPM increase pretty easily.
Last edited by GT-Ron; 10-26-2005 at 12:03 PM.
#43
10-26-2005, 12:02 PM
Originally Posted by GT-Ron
So the 700RPM increase I calculated is a bit high compared to your real-world observations? I understand you're AT and I'm MT, but the same ratio should result in pretty similar RPMs regardless, correct?
I could live with a 300-400RPM increase pretty easily.
I could live with a 300-400RPM increase pretty easily.
#44
10-26-2005, 03:09 PM
After doing a little driving on the highway at lunch, it seems like it would be the equivalent of losing 6th gear (as far as highway cruising speeds). 5th runs a little higher RPM than the swap would give in 6th, but it doesn't look too far off.
I might wait until the Mystery Manifold Mod ( ) is released and give myself more time to think about this swap. It'll give me more time to observe where my RPMs currently are during my normal driving and where they would end up after the swap.
I might wait until the Mystery Manifold Mod (
) is released and give myself more time to think about this swap. It'll give me more time to observe where my RPMs currently are during my normal driving and where they would end up after the swap.
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