Clutch Squeaking quick fix???
I'm not sure about how specificly the G35's clutch assembly is.. but usually there's a return spring with a bushing in it, rather than a linear return spring(like in older vehicles).
These bushings are typically made of some inferior material such as plastic, and they tend to wear out.. particularly after some dirt gets in there. When the bushings get semi-worn, they will creak when you push your clutch in, because the worn bushing is rubbing/grinding in an unsmooth fashion against the metal support that holds it in place instead of smoothly contacting the surface of it.
One solution is to either remove the return-spring all-together(It's actually not needed, because the clutch has a spring inside the assembly which returns the clutch pedal up 95% of the way, while the spring is responsible for the last 5 or 10% of the clutch throw travel. But the last 10% is just to lift it up more. The clutch is actualy fully disengaged once it reaches this point). Another solution is to replace it with the OEM bushing/spring... and another common solution would be to replace it with an acceptable linear spring that you buy at a hardware store.
The whole reason that most cars use a bushing rather than a linear spring is to give the pedal a non-linear feel. If you've ever noticed, your clutch pedal is harder to push down in the first 30% of the throw... and easier to push down once you get past that. That's a result of the bushing. If you replace it with a linear spring, it will require a uniform amount of pressure throughout the entire clutch throw rather than a varying effort at different points. If you remove the spring all-together, it will be a uniform amount of effort as well, and the pedal will be a little easier to push down.
Once again, I haven't tried this specificly on a G35, but I have done it on other Nissans that I've owned in the past as well as on a Toyota.
These bushings are typically made of some inferior material such as plastic, and they tend to wear out.. particularly after some dirt gets in there. When the bushings get semi-worn, they will creak when you push your clutch in, because the worn bushing is rubbing/grinding in an unsmooth fashion against the metal support that holds it in place instead of smoothly contacting the surface of it.
One solution is to either remove the return-spring all-together(It's actually not needed, because the clutch has a spring inside the assembly which returns the clutch pedal up 95% of the way, while the spring is responsible for the last 5 or 10% of the clutch throw travel. But the last 10% is just to lift it up more. The clutch is actualy fully disengaged once it reaches this point). Another solution is to replace it with the OEM bushing/spring... and another common solution would be to replace it with an acceptable linear spring that you buy at a hardware store.
The whole reason that most cars use a bushing rather than a linear spring is to give the pedal a non-linear feel. If you've ever noticed, your clutch pedal is harder to push down in the first 30% of the throw... and easier to push down once you get past that. That's a result of the bushing. If you replace it with a linear spring, it will require a uniform amount of pressure throughout the entire clutch throw rather than a varying effort at different points. If you remove the spring all-together, it will be a uniform amount of effort as well, and the pedal will be a little easier to push down.
Once again, I haven't tried this specificly on a G35, but I have done it on other Nissans that I've owned in the past as well as on a Toyota.
If you're motivated enough to fix it yourself.. it's very easy to do.
Usually you can find the clutch return spring and bushing on the drivers side of the firewall. It should be somewhere near where the clutch cable comes out on the engine-side of the firewall, and there will probably be a cover or casing around it. If you remove the cover/casing, it should expose the spring/bushing.
Be careful when you take the spring out, because they tend to be loaded with a good amount of pressure. I recommend wrapping it in a rag before prying it off, so that it won't go anywhere when it pops off(such as into your eye). Putting the new spring on is a lot easier than removing the original one.
If you can't get the old spring off or the new one on... try having someone hold the clutch pedal down inside the cabin as you work on it.
I'd go out and take a look under my and let you know what the clutch return assembly actually looks like, but my car is all locked up, covered and stashed away for the winter.
Usually you can find the clutch return spring and bushing on the drivers side of the firewall. It should be somewhere near where the clutch cable comes out on the engine-side of the firewall, and there will probably be a cover or casing around it. If you remove the cover/casing, it should expose the spring/bushing.
Be careful when you take the spring out, because they tend to be loaded with a good amount of pressure. I recommend wrapping it in a rag before prying it off, so that it won't go anywhere when it pops off(such as into your eye). Putting the new spring on is a lot easier than removing the original one.
If you can't get the old spring off or the new one on... try having someone hold the clutch pedal down inside the cabin as you work on it.
I'd go out and take a look under my and let you know what the clutch return assembly actually looks like, but my car is all locked up, covered and stashed away for the winter.
Last edited by partyman66; Dec 22, 2005 at 09:40 PM.
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