No point buying a daily driver since by the time you spend the money you spent with buying the car, you could've bought yourself like 1000 gallons of gas

 

a set of headers worked for me

 

A Z-Tube and a high flow air-filter will get you about an additional 2 MPG(The stock intake pipe is very poorly designed in terms of efficiency). I have a K&N drop-in on my car, along with a Z-Tube a Motordyne 3/8" spacer. The spacer didn't do anything to help my economy, but the Z-tube/K&N filter did.
I'm actually switching to an Amsoil EA Nanofiber filter this spring though, because since running the K&N, I've noticed that my oil is unusually filthy when I do oil changes. K&N's are known for being poor at capturing and retaining dirt... plus the Amsoil is a non-oiled filter which means there's no worries about screwing up the MAF sensor with the filter oil when cleaning it.

Use the proper octane fuel for your car. Using too low of an octane will cause your car to trip a knock sensor, and the timing will be retarded a few degrees to account for the knock and make it go away... resulting in noticeably decreased power and fuel economy. Using fuel with an octane rating that is unnecessarily high(such as using race gas in a N/A vehicle with stock pistons and heads) will be of no benefit to your vehicle.

Keep your tires properly inflated and wheels properly alligned, and try to shift at lower RPM's. Our engines get optimal fuel eficiency at about 1700 RPM's when cruising at steady speed, so if you're just cruising straight.. try to put it in a gear that will spin the engine at somewhere around that RPM. It's not much fun to keep the RPM's low, but if you really want better economy.. try to keep it below 3000 most of the time.

Do not drive down the highway with your windows rolled down, because this creates additional aerodynamic drag and decreases fuel economy as well as making your engine work harder.

Using your Air-Conditioner slightly decreases your fuel economy(Your A/C also comes on when you turn on your front window defogger too.. but you can shut it off manually by pressing the A/C button immediately after turning on your front window defogger, as long as you don't have your ventilation system on recirculate). If it's mid summer and you're driving down the highway in heat.. it's more fuel efficient to drive with your windows closed and A/C on than with the windows down and A/C off.

Another gas-savings tip.... Use Cruise Control whenever you can. For some reason, our cars get better fuel economy when cruising at a set speed than you can get by manipulating the gas pedal manually with your foot. I did some tests on this for a while and our cruise control is very good at giving the car the minimal amount of gas required to maintain a set speed... much better than a person can do by manually pushing the pedal down. I tested this quite a bit on back-roads driving(non-highway).

Shifting your car into neutral and coasting will not save you much gas at all, if any. The way modern Fuel Injected cars are programmed is that when you let off the gas pedal, your fuel consumption is reduced to that of idling.. regardless of whether you're in gear or not. So if you go down a big hill and downshift into 3rd gear at 60 MPH, then let off the gas pedal completely.. causing your car to rev to around 5000 RPM's, you're really using the same amount of gas as you would be if you just put it in neutral and let it idle at 800 RPM's. The only difference is that you will coast farther in neutral than you would by keeping your car in gear(especially if you're taching it up very high like that.. to 5K RPM's).

Don't carry excessive weight in your car. Some people like to carry a 50 pound toolbox in the trunk of their car, plus a whole bunch of other junk.. which can add up to about 100 or so pounds of additional mass that you have to tow around. Even driving around with a full gas tank all the time, will very slightly cause your car to get decreased fuel economy.. since a gallon of gas weighs just over 6 pounds.. so, driving around with a full tank all the time, you're carrying about 125 pounds of additional weight in gasoline. You could even remove your spare tire and jack from the vehicle if you wanted but you will be SOL if you get a flat.

Now... you must realize that these are just suggestions on how you can increase your fuel economy. Some of them will make your driving experience less pleasureable, so take what you want from these suggestions. If you do all of these all the time, you probably won't enjoy your car too much.

 

damn soo long yet so insightfull thanks

 

LOL, just got one and the mileage is great: 50.1 miles per Imperial gallon (hwy).

Other than that, all you can do is drive carefully, windows up, a/c on.
Mods aren't going to affect you mileage that much.

But like has been said many times b4..."if you want economy, you're in the wrong ride....."....

C.

 

LOL

THAT WAS FUNNY

u guys crack me up.

 

55 mph

highway ofcourse

 

Sounds good, but no... shifting too early, your engine will be working harder to get your car up to speed, thus using more gas. Best mpg from most cars is from shifting in the 3k range. Usually somewhere around 3200 rpms.

And despite what many people would like to believe, modifications like intake, MREV, headers, exhaust, etc... that improve the airflow of the car will not save you gas. The whole point of these modifications is to make power. But to make power you have to burn more fuel. To make your engine burn more fuel, you give it more air...
Your ECU will automatically compensate to the additional air by adding more gas to keep the air/ fuel ratio the same as before. But depending on the mod, your ECU will compensate by going richer than before the mod too. The only mod to truly save gas is to tune your car. Get an SAFC Select, reflash, UTEC, or something, and get it professionally tuned.

 

make your own gas. haha

 

Much of this statement is blatantly wrong(nothing personal against you, but it just is wrong), and here is an explanation of why:

The G35 gets better fuel economy when you shift low. It's a fact that I and many other people can corroborate. Shifting at 2500 RPM's is not too low for this engine because it has enough torque to shift at that point or earlier under nonaggressive driving situations.. which would be the obvious driving situation for fuel economy maximization. If we were talking about a low torque engine such as a 1.8 liter Honda VTEC engine, then this might be true... but we are talking about a 3.5 liter V6 with 270 LB of Torque. Anyone with OEM Navigation in their car can easily see the benefits of shifting at lower RPM's in this car by using the real-time fuel economy feature and evaluating their fuel economy at different shift points over a few miles of testing on a flat road. Bogging the engine decreases fuel economy, but shifting below 3200 RPM's is by no-means bogging this engine.


An engine creates a vacuum when it runs. If you add restriction to the exhaust or to the intake, you are causing the engine to work harder to suck in air and push out exhaust that is created from combustion and required to balance out the vacuum on the intake side vs the exhaust side of the engine(displacing the air/fuel out the exhaust system that was sucked in and burned). The reason our cars benefit from an intake is that the stock intake is very poor in design because Infiniti engineers were looking for an intake that would keep the car quieter both in terms of induction noise and also in exhaust note at higher RPM's. It adds an excessive restriction because of the resonator in the G-Tube(as I like to call it) and the fact that the design of the G tube is a less linear intake path than a Z-Tube and many other aftermarket intakes. When you remove the restriction from the intake the concern isn't solely that you are getting less air into the engine... but it does mean that the air that is going in is going in with less impedence and without sapping the engine of power(momentum) by creating negative pressure on the natural momentum of the pistons(which tend to suck air in in their normal motion). Why do you think cars get worse fuel economy when the air filter is badly clogged with dirt?.... it's because it adds intake restrction and nobody will argue against the fact that a very dirty or clogged air filter decreases fuel economy.

As far as air-volume going into the engine as a result of the intake... if you have a restrictive intake, it is going to result in the actual achieved compression ratio in the engine to be lower because the pistons are already moving certain speed from momentum of the engine(regardless of how much air is coming in). If, by the time the piston reaches TDC, there is not the desired amount of air in the combustion chamber... the compression ratio is going to be lower, resulting in less power and worse fuel economy overall from the engine.

 

+ 1

 

As Partyman has described in detail this is not correct. Shifting at 3200 rpms in a car with this much torque and hp will most certainly not maximize your fuel efficiency. Besides the throttle opening has as much to do with economy as the actual shift point rpms.

 

Thanks!!

 

Actually there's a very simple way to improve gas milegae, and it's one I use most of the time. When I'm driving with lots of cars in front of me, which is about 95% of the time, I always accelerate my car slowly. I drive my G like a Honda Civic in those conditions. In other words why accelerate quickly and then have to slow down when you approach the car in front of you.

When the road is clear however, I drive the G the way it was meant to be driven. With this approach I average a little over 22 MPG. I know that's nothing great, but it's not too bad for a performance car.

 

Can't argue about the RPM's... that was just an observation from my Civic. As for the MREV, I can show you that my motor is running much richer than before... just need a damn scanner. As for the clogged filter, isn't it that your sensor reads less air, so it also runs richer as a safety? Sorry, I'm not gonna argue that your car may be running more efficient than before, but imo fuel economy is still different... your ecu is still compensating for the extra air with more gas... and more gas does not equal better fuel economy...

On a seperate note, what do you guys think of this http://www.optionimports.com/ze10poneo.html ?
Japanese equivelant to the Tornado?