I would say as others try regular dino oil. I run 20w50, or 10w30 in my cars depending on what I have on hand, and change every 3k miles. Ever since I got my RX-7 i keep only dino on hand, one round of synthetic in that car and the motor is toast.

Pete

 

YEA IM STILL UNDER WARRANTY...BUT THEY JSUT SAY ITS NORMAL ITS NORMAL...IT VARIES FROM DRIVING STYLE....BUT I MEAN THATS DAMN EXCESSIVE...I DRIVE MY CAR HARD...BUT NOT THAT HARD...LOL...I ONLY HAVE NO 28K ON MY CAR....

 

What I find odd is that the oil light doesn't tell you that you're down a quart. It only throws if the oil pump is malfunctioning. So I check my fluids every week.

 

I recently noticed my G was down 1.5 quarts at 3000 miles. Took it to the dealer and I'm doing an oil consumption test. I've been driving hard to duplicate the problem and I'm down 0.5 quarts at 940miles. Depending on what the dealer says I might end up using 10w40 dino oil..

I also noticed oil around my plenum spacer but not enough to suggest that's the problem. Thanks to shooter for helping me retorque the bolts.

Regards,

Ice

 

IMO, if you drive hard you should be using an Xw40 oil type anyways. Using synthetic vs Petrol based will also help reduce the consumption since most synthetics have a lower flashpoint than petrol based lubes (which means they evaporate/burn off less at high temperatures & pressures).

 

The valvetrain in these motors are designed for a 30 weight oil, any thicker and the oil won't lubricate as well. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5w-30 and change the oil every 5k miles, no oil consumption at all. The car gets driven hard every once in a while so it's not babied all the time.

 

Actually, you are incorrect. The valve train in these cars is designed to run with best fuel economy given an Xw30 weight oil.. however, for optimal protection and less oil consumption, the engine runs better on an oil at or closer to the 40 weight range. One of the only reasons why most manufacturers recommend such low visocity oils in the first place is because of CAFE standards which mandate that a vehicle needs to meet a minumum fuel economy rating... in the long run they don't care how much oil it will consume or how the engine's longevity will suffer as long as it makes it well past the warranty period. In this engine, however, a slightly thicker oil will reduce consumption and wear on both the emissions system components (like cats & o2 sensors) and the engine itself.

 

The hydralic lash adjusters are made for 30 weight oil, learn about how the valvetrain works in the 3.5 DOHC and you will understand why.

 

Then why is it that using thicker oils on the VQ35 shows significantly less wear from all engine components (vs 30wt oil) when a UOA is performed? There's just too much evidence which suggests a thicker oil film thickenss benefits this motor.

 

Also, as another poster on an oil specific website stated:

"The manual for current VQs specs 5w-30, 10w-30, or 10w-40. I find it hard to believe that they'd allow the use of 40 wt oil were it not within the engine's operating parameters."

check this thread

 

Also, I would like to add for those of you who are non-believers, that factory fill on our Gs is 10w40!

Check out the UOA here for yourself.

 

A thinner oil like 5-30 will remove more heat from the bearings than a 40 wt.
heat will cause more problems.

 

Sounds like a valid point... how much of a temperature difference does it actually make? And what about the added effect of an increased oil film thickness around the bearings?

 

Great question? You will be surprised on what I have to say.
I need to leave right now , will post later

 

I just topped off today

down .5 quart at 2,300 mobil 1 5w30