So I guess buying an 03 with 145K would not be a bad idea since they are so reliable? they only want 4500 for it what do you guys think.

 

Depends on the service history.

Like i said in your other thread, a lot of the guys with higher mileage G35's have owned them for a while and maintained them well. Fluids are regularly flushed and the cars are generally pampered

When buying a random 145K mile car, you have no idea how well it was maintained. Luck of the draw really. You either have a well-maintained car...or a car someone was starting to have issues on and they dumped.

Personally I wouldn't pay $4500 for any car with almost 150K miles on it.

 

highest mileage sedan ?

 

Eric, I'd like to see what your car looks like on the outside. Also, what electronics still work??

 

You've got almost 100,000 LESS than the person that was just asked for pics, and it's a coupe not a sedan... in what universe is that the same thing?!?

 

sorry but i laughed fairly loud....

Everything works on the car...


I'll throw a pic or two up in a bit..... just got through changing the thermostat and bleeding the system so I'm sure the car will be a bit on the greasy/dirty side.

But if you must need to know what is wrong with the car:

THE F**(#* ECU (I cannot tune the mtr fkr)

That's the ONLY problem I have. Car recently dyno'd at 252hp / 248 tq... I've yet to take it to the track but the last time I went the car trapped 14.1 @ 99.1 MPH @ 239hp / 241 tq.

Car at that time had a different exhaust setup along with much more engine restrictions (oem cats, etc...)

Unfortunately I've added more weight as well, the 14 inch rotors from the Akebono brakes weight like a fat bish needing to get lifted up a stair casing, also I added 20'inch wheels and a JL W7 woofer along with the DVD/Navigation/CarPuter.

Lastly one thing to remember I also added a 4 core aluminium radiator (PWR) OEM radiator weight is less than 5 lbs empty iirc... the PWR is about 20lbs + it has far more fluid capacity I believe it's 2.75 gallons vs oem 1.09 gallons.

The car also has the 3.5 diff from the 350z so it definitively helps put down the power a bit sooner but I wouldn't expect huge performance gain differences as far as ET's.


pics will be up later today...


Interior was redone although it did not need it. I never had any torn leather, or such.... bottom line I take care of the car.

Oil changes occur at 2,500 miles
every 3 changes I drain and fill the transmission
every 3 trans drain and fills i flush the transmission
at every flush i drain and fill the rack and pinion & differential.

Most people say don't fix if it isn't broke.... Terrible saying... problem really is that once something breaks a whole chain of problems begin..

Be proactive and change / fix / replace before parts fail.

All bushings were pressed in (whiteline & energy suspension)
Tokico Blue's were installed as well along with Kinetix FULL CAMBER/TOE kit(s).

Exhaust is custom made by myself begining with the DC Sports Ceramic Coated headers with a 18inch Xtreme Technologies Muffler middy terminating with a modified 3 inch OUT HKS Legamax muffler.

I'm direly trying to reach Tadashi Nagato (the tuner from Technosquare that quit) he's the only one that can tune the 03 ecu.....

Other than that no issues with the car no wobbles, no squeaks, just pure Infiniti/Nissan excellence.

 

**** pics and just sprayed the car a bit with straight water but here are some pictures.

 

wow that's clean for 270K ! There is no way my car will get that high lol I change my oil at 3k but thats about it.

When I bought my car Oct/2011 it had 89,xxx miles. I did trans flush, spark plugs, brake flush, and power steering flush.

I'm currently at 109,xxx miles. It needs a f/driver wheel bearing and f/driver strut (I will be getting Tokico Blue/Pro Kit soon)

I just did rear brakes and cabin filter yesterday. I'm at 24xx miles so at next oil change I will be doing oil filter housing gasket (leaks a few drops every time I park the car for 20min or longer. roughly). My intake filter is FILTHY so I'm looking for worst case scenario K&N drop in filter, but I'd really like a Stillen intake w/ z tube or pop charger w/ z tupe.

Eric@: What mods do you have? 250 whp is pretty good. I'd like to be there....hopefully haha Thanks

 

Probably decent deal assuming everything mechanically and cosmetically seems good. I have 170K miles on mine, only had it 4 months. Had to replace the belts and one of the tensioners. The other day, part of the display for the dual zone climate control blinked a couple of times but not again. Today car suddenly developed stiff steering like the engine wasn't running. Changed the spark plugs a couple of weeks ago, they looked like they were the original.

Car is a blast to drive, pretty serious hot-rod if you want it to be. I'm disappointed in the fuel economy but, dang it sure can pin your ears back.

 

200,000 04. Runs like heaven. Pretty sure the engine was redone and the suspension was replaced not too long ago. definitly drives better than some 100,000- g35s out there

 

Every n.a. mod possible minus cams n ecu transgo.

The trick really was the exhaust. and losing as much weight on the wheels as possible.

You're doing good by keeping up with the car.


Theres a thread on intakes and iirc the 2005 revup box in conjunction with the k&n drop in was the best combo.

 

236k still running solid!

 

for non mechanics how do flush your trans lines, brake lines and fluids. and when would be a good time to start... mine just hit 85000.. for now all I do is oil changes. just did a tune up and its running strong for now.. but I def wanna make a 200 if I can.. lol

 

I would STRONGLY suggest doing a transmission flush at your dealership.

as for Brakes it's normally a 2 person job.

I have a trick that you can do (at your own risk) but it works flawlessly.

Get a big gallon of water and make sure you have the top, of course be it empty ..

get air hose tubing for a fish tank or equivalent (clear)

poke a small hole in the top of the gallon container, then poke a bigger hole on the top about the size of the hose. Now you should have 2 holes.

now insert the tube all the way DOWN into the container, next the other end attach it to the bleeder valve (with a socket 10mm, in between both the tube and on the bleeder valve). Now, begin from the farthest side first ( rear passenger ).

Fill the reservoir ALL the way to the top without spilling, open the valve .... and pump it a few times... keep the level full AT ALL TIMES. once you see the fluid clears up close the valve and proceed to the next valve. If you see there is air pockets in the tubing after pushing the new fluid through continue till there is NO AIR!

* Sequence Order *

Rear Passenger >> Driver Passenger >> Front Passenger >> Driver.


Very simple, depending on what wheels you have you can accomplish this without needing to remove them.



Radiator fluid, I would HONESTLY remove the thermostat and replace both thermostat and gasket, then I would OPT for the new Nissan Blue 50/50 coolant. It actually works a bit better than the 50/50 green. (yes I've tested it). Prior to this, I would drain the fluid from the drain screw on the radiator (close by the lower hose on the plastic end tank). then remove the thermostat and try to recover as much as you can if you're a Earth preservation freak.


Differential oil, this is something normally overlooked, CHANGE IT! It's easy.

Get 3 quarts of gear oil, depending how hard you drive you can go with thicker or not so thick Gear Oil. Drain, and fill. There's DIY's all over.

Power Steering Oil, another overlooked fluid,

easy way is to lift the car on the drivers side, place a safety stand, follow the power steering rack, you will notice 2 hoses, 1 Metal with a 14mm nut and 1 with a clamp on rubber hose...

Remove the one with the rubber hose, have a container there for the recovery. it'll drain within 3 minutes. replace the hose with clamp drop the car fill the reservoir tank to the correct measurements. Crank the car! Now, you make hear some WAHAAAAAA noise this is normal as some air pockets have been created. turn the steering wheel from end TO end, it'll slowly go away, turn off the car wait a few minutes and refill to the correct specs again.

This process you remove about 50% of the fluid as the other 50 is between the pump, pressure hose, and rack n pinion. you can lift again and redo the process but it'll only be about 75% replaced.

Some people opt for a chicken broth sucker or pump but that'll only remove what is inside the reservoir tank which is about 25% since you cannot get what's in the hose of the return. Pick your poison . I honestly remove BOTH the clamped hose and 14mm pressure hose drain and refill and KEEP on moving. You may feel improved sensitivity and/or response.


hope this all addresses your concerns.

 

wow. thanks bro ..