You may want to check to see if the rubber stoppers on the bottom are still there. I use mine in my garage which is a pretty slick surface without them sliding around.

 

Mine slide all over the place too. I have to put concrete blocks in front of them to keep them in place (even with the rubber). I haven't used them since I installed the front chin spoiler and lowered the car. I guess when I do need them I will have to use some 2X4s or something.

 

That center pin can be an issue, but once you see how to pop it off, its a piece of cake. The focus is prying open the center pin, not the outer ring.



If you already know this and it still doesn't come off, it could be broken.

As for taking off the guard, I just use a cordless drill with a phillips head...just make sure not to strip the bolts and always hand loosen/tighten with a ratchet! I've had enough practice after two oil changes and one lip attachment (that required the guard to be removed) to get the thing off in about 5 min or less.

As for the Rhino ramps, would it help to put some terry towels or rags underneath?(the ramps themselves) I mean, as long as you don't have a polished surface (kitchen floor smooth) it should work. Maybe put a brick behind each Rhino to prevent the initial movement of the ramp when the wheel first goes onto its surface. Wanna try it?

 

Now that I have the Greddy oil pan and JWT spacer my car takes 6.5qts of M1 15-50. Even doing it myself it costs a good $45!

 

Get a cheap cordless drill, jack the car up and support it on stands or ramps, then take all the screws out that hold the cover on, I think it would be pretty messy trying to remove the filter and the oil from the pan without removing the cover entirely even if there is a whole under there. That way everything stays nice and clean and doesn't smell :-)

 

Just installed my AAM oil pan spacer today. I had a similar issue with the sliding ramps, so I eventually had my brother-in-law and his dad support them while I drove up. Right now the car's outside curing (manufacturer recommended 24 hours for the silicone sealant to fully cure). I figured it's a good idea since an oil leak would really suck to have to fix.

Anyway, yeah it was really easy to do. Without a cordless drill, all those bolts would add 30 minutes to the job. The toughest part of the spacer install was breaking the factory seal to insert the spacer, then cleaning that dried gook off of the mated parts. The key to breaking that seal is to work in a putty knife at one corner of the pan (front left of car worked for me) until it's inserted well into the gap between the pan and engine. Once the knife is in that trench, you can start to use moderate force to push it through the rest of the gap and keep sliding it around the front and sides of the oil pan (the back is inaccessible) to break the seal. It took us about 35 minutes to get the pan off but be patient and it will eventually come loose.

Other than that, it was really straightforward but you'll need a torque wrench from 75 to 300 in/lbs to finish the different bolts. The hardest part for me was really getting up on the ramps!

 

I think if you attached a rubber mat under each ramp, that would prevent the sliding?? ie.. the weight of the wheel on the mat would "hold" the ramp still?

 

I completed my first oil change on the G. It was very easy. I removed the shroud for better access and clean drain of the oil. I cleaned the shroud at the same time because it was muddy.

Would i be okay with the same copper washer until the next oil change? I know its recommended to replace it but it was late and the dealership was far away.

 

I've got metal ramps and I just stuck a sheet of thick corrugated cardboard (basically and old shipping box that I had) under each ramp/wheel.
Worked really well as the ramp just bites into the surface of the cardboaerd as soon as the wheel puts any pressure on it.

 

^^ It's okay to reuse, done it without problem. For the peace of mind, its better to replace. Just order a dozen so you always one on hand.

As for rhino ramp, I have the same problem. Cement driveway is too smooth, and the asphalt at the end of it doesn't want to cooperate either. Its ironic but I use aluminum floor jack to raise the car then slide the ramp under the wheels.

 

Hey all,

My bud just told me about a longer life synthetic oil that is designed to last up to 15,000 miles between changes. He has an S2000 and swears by this oil. I was wondering if anyone here has heard of it and uses it in their G? I would consider using it and changing every 10K instead of every 15. Then I'd change the filter each oil change too.

LMK,
B

 

I change my oil every 3750 miles so i use regular Mobil 1 Sync oil. If your oil change interval is longer, go ahead and use the extended performance oil.
I used the EP 15,000k oil on my Accord and i never went over 5000 miles with it. I drive it pretty hard at times and the oil gets really dirty.
It's an extra $5 over the regular sync, so it's not too bad if you use it.

 

What is the brand? This is not unheard of. The recommended service interval for my wife's 325 is 15,000 (I believe BMW recommends Castrol Synthetic). To me that is just crazy, I drive my car pretty hard and would never go 15,000 miles without an oil change.

 

I'm not sure but I'll try to find out for you.

Thanks,
Brian

 

Mobil 1 Extended Performance is the name of the syn oil i used. It has the gold cap on the bottle. You can find it at Walmart for $28 and change.