Hi all,
My 05x has about 17k+ miles and I do noticed a little squeeky noise when coming to a stop nowadays. I bought a set of Hawks HPS for the front and might try to take a stab at it. Is there any good DIY link aside from this one?
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension-diy/52272-diy-5at-brakes-rotors-diy-oh-my.html
Tried doing a search and was able to find one that's for the brembo brakes. Just wondering if it's easy enough for a newbie or should I just bring it to a shop. Any pre-cautions that I need to watch out for?
Thanks...
My 05x has about 17k+ miles and I do noticed a little squeeky noise when coming to a stop nowadays. I bought a set of Hawks HPS for the front and might try to take a stab at it. Is there any good DIY link aside from this one?
https://g35driver.com/forums/brakes-suspension-diy/52272-diy-5at-brakes-rotors-diy-oh-my.html
Tried doing a search and was able to find one that's for the brembo brakes. Just wondering if it's easy enough for a newbie or should I just bring it to a shop. Any pre-cautions that I need to watch out for?
Thanks...

Hi,
I plan to change the pads this weekend. My garage is very tight and I can only do one side of the front at a time. What's the best way to jack up just one side of the front? I was thinking to use the hydralic jack on the metal thingy to lift it up and then put jack stand next to the wheel area on the veritical frame (see pic below). Is that ok? Would that be tilted at an angle? Or should I try to find the garage point below the oil pan in the front (I heard it's hard to find), jack up the whole front and put jack stands under both metal thingy or the frame to just do pads on one side? Thanks...

I plan to change the pads this weekend. My garage is very tight and I can only do one side of the front at a time. What's the best way to jack up just one side of the front? I was thinking to use the hydralic jack on the metal thingy to lift it up and then put jack stand next to the wheel area on the veritical frame (see pic below). Is that ok? Would that be tilted at an angle? Or should I try to find the garage point below the oil pan in the front (I heard it's hard to find), jack up the whole front and put jack stands under both metal thingy or the frame to just do pads on one side? Thanks...

Registered User
this was my favorite DIY
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...=brake+pad+diy
hint: you dont really need those shims. the hawk pads come with them built in. also, if your rotors surface does not seem even, take em to a shop and have them grinded
my nismo skirts came with a HUGE cutout next to each wheel so that you could put a larger jack underneth with ease. I just used my hydro jack and did one corner at a time. even like that, it only takes about 1/2 hour
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...=brake+pad+diy
hint: you dont really need those shims. the hawk pads come with them built in. also, if your rotors surface does not seem even, take em to a shop and have them grinded
my nismo skirts came with a HUGE cutout next to each wheel so that you could put a larger jack underneth with ease. I just used my hydro jack and did one corner at a time. even like that, it only takes about 1/2 hour
Quote:
http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...=brake+pad+diy
hint: you dont really need those shims. the hawk pads come with them built in. also, if your rotors surface does not seem even, take em to a shop and have them grinded
my nismo skirts came with a HUGE cutout next to each wheel so that you could put a larger jack underneth with ease. I just used my hydro jack and did one corner at a time. even like that, it only takes about 1/2 hour
I think my rotors are fine so I'll just change the pads. So you didn't even use jack stands? and just hydro jack one corner at a time? Is that safe enough? Thanks for the link you sent me. It's definitely a better link than the one I had. Is the front caliper bolts 14mm or 22mm? The person that did it said it was 14mm but further down the thread someone said it's 22mm.Originally Posted by Neal376
this was my favorite DIYhttp://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...=brake+pad+diy
hint: you dont really need those shims. the hawk pads come with them built in. also, if your rotors surface does not seem even, take em to a shop and have them grinded
my nismo skirts came with a HUGE cutout next to each wheel so that you could put a larger jack underneth with ease. I just used my hydro jack and did one corner at a time. even like that, it only takes about 1/2 hour
I plan to rotate the tires too. How do you normally do it (the safe way).

Registered User
well, thats the funny thing about my nismo skirts...they allow you to put a jack stand and a hydro jack at the same time underneth it.
but if your not getting under the car, theres really is no need for the jack stands. when I rotate my tires, or when I am under the car, I put 2 jackstands in the front underneth the skirts (at the jackpoints) and i use the hydro jack under the rear differential/pumpkin/w.e. as extra percaution (when I am under the vehicle) I put some spare wheels...spare jacks...blocks of wood... wheel chocks underneth as well.
well, traditionally, you could rotate your tires with one jack and use your full spare as your rotate....but I find the quickest way to rotate would be to raise the two rear wheels from lifting underneth the pumpkin. my car is too low to fit underneth the front axle - so I have to do that end one at a time
I sometimes put the jacks in the front under that frame rail as in the pic in the above post ^^^^^
but if your not getting under the car, theres really is no need for the jack stands. when I rotate my tires, or when I am under the car, I put 2 jackstands in the front underneth the skirts (at the jackpoints) and i use the hydro jack under the rear differential/pumpkin/w.e. as extra percaution (when I am under the vehicle) I put some spare wheels...spare jacks...blocks of wood... wheel chocks underneth as well.
well, traditionally, you could rotate your tires with one jack and use your full spare as your rotate....but I find the quickest way to rotate would be to raise the two rear wheels from lifting underneth the pumpkin. my car is too low to fit underneth the front axle - so I have to do that end one at a time
I sometimes put the jacks in the front under that frame rail as in the pic in the above post ^^^^^
Registered User
oh yea, lol when your calipers are off, dont press the brake pedal...i dont know why someone would do this, but I constantly hear stories from my nimwitted friends who do so and send their pistons flying off the caliper 
also, the guide kind of fails to mention how your supposed to clip your pads in to the hardware of the rotor...its difficult to describe, but before you remove your pads, take a look at how the outside pad is clipped in and instal accordingly

also, the guide kind of fails to mention how your supposed to clip your pads in to the hardware of the rotor...its difficult to describe, but before you remove your pads, take a look at how the outside pad is clipped in and instal accordingly
Registered User
14mm for the bolt that allows the caliper to swing up and access the brake pads in the caliper cage. I believe it's an 18mm socket if you want to remove the entire caliper to replace the front rotors. There's no need to resurface the rotors unless you're getting some vibration in the wheel during stops. Even then, if the rotor is warped, resurfacing does little to help the issue because it will often return within 3K to 5K miles. To reduce the chance for warpage:
-don't over torque the lugs
-don't do any extreme braking until the pads/rotors are bedded
-don't saturate a hot rotor with water
-don't over torque the lugs
-don't do any extreme braking until the pads/rotors are bedded
-don't saturate a hot rotor with water
Quote:
but if your not getting under the car, theres really is no need for the jack stands. when I rotate my tires, or when I am under the car, I put 2 jackstands in the front underneth the skirts (at the jackpoints) and i use the hydro jack under the rear differential/pumpkin/w.e. as extra percaution (when I am under the vehicle) I put some spare wheels...spare jacks...blocks of wood... wheel chocks underneth as well.
well, traditionally, you could rotate your tires with one jack and use your full spare as your rotate....but I find the quickest way to rotate would be to raise the two rear wheels from lifting underneth the pumpkin. my car is too low to fit underneth the front axle - so I have to do that end one at a time
I sometimes put the jacks in the front under that frame rail as in the pic in the above post ^^^^^
Oh, I thought it's always a recommendation to use jack stands. Originally Posted by Neal376
well, thats the funny thing about my nismo skirts...they allow you to put a jack stand and a hydro jack at the same time underneth it.but if your not getting under the car, theres really is no need for the jack stands. when I rotate my tires, or when I am under the car, I put 2 jackstands in the front underneth the skirts (at the jackpoints) and i use the hydro jack under the rear differential/pumpkin/w.e. as extra percaution (when I am under the vehicle) I put some spare wheels...spare jacks...blocks of wood... wheel chocks underneth as well.
well, traditionally, you could rotate your tires with one jack and use your full spare as your rotate....but I find the quickest way to rotate would be to raise the two rear wheels from lifting underneth the pumpkin. my car is too low to fit underneth the front axle - so I have to do that end one at a time
I sometimes put the jacks in the front under that frame rail as in the pic in the above post ^^^^^
I thought you rotate front to back and vice versa?
Quote:
-don't over torque the lugs
-don't do any extreme braking until the pads/rotors are bedded
-don't saturate a hot rotor with water
Cool...thanks for the tip.Originally Posted by DaveB
14mm for the bolt that allows the caliper to swing up and access the brake pads in the caliper cage. I believe it's an 18mm socket if you want to remove the entire caliper to replace the front rotors. There's no need to resurface the rotors unless you're getting some vibration in the wheel during stops. Even then, if the rotor is warped, resurfacing does little to help the issue because it will often return within 3K to 5K miles. To reduce the chance for warpage: -don't over torque the lugs
-don't do any extreme braking until the pads/rotors are bedded
-don't saturate a hot rotor with water
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeee2
Oh, I thought it's always a recommendation to use jack stands. nah, unless you want to be extra cautionary. even in the DIY's the installer only uses the factory jack
Quote:
In other words, you do the donut swap for your tire rotations?Originally Posted by Neal376
well...I have directional tires...so I can only rotate front to back
Quote:
It's because occasionally I've read that the oem scissor jack would collapse all of a sudden. Originally Posted by Neal376
nah, unless you want to be extra cautionary. even in the DIY's the installer only uses the factory jack

Registered User
you got a donut? hrmm i thought all the X's came with a full spare.
for people with only one jack (or people who could only raise one wheel at a time), they need to use a spare tire so they could lower one and and put the original wheel on the other side etc etc etc
for people with only one jack (or people who could only raise one wheel at a time), they need to use a spare tire so they could lower one and and put the original wheel on the other side etc etc etc