Yeah I did the the back to back pull after an ECu reset - but keep in mind i have the TS ECU upgrade. THe hp difference was 3 less AFTER the resert (well within the error margin)

Gurgen

 

Doug:

I'm assuming you still have a set of GroundingGear™ in your car. Did you do the stock run with the H-G wires disabled? I know that for several of the magazine dynos, they found that in many cases, the H-G kits did as much or more than some of the minor mods like intakes and exhausts, sometimes in HP, other times in torque. Not necessarily true in this case, but I'd be interested in seeing if your high 'stock' readings are a result of this effect.

<font color=green>GroundingGear™ Equipped </font color=green>

 

Steve, I remember that. Didn't you ultimately determine the "culprit" was most likely the resonator. Was it you or 3point5SE_Auto that swapped back to stock?

Re: breaking 240 - I think every once in a while a really strong car comes off the line (like the other 6mt above!). When I traded my '03.5 for this '04, I was convinced the new one was quicker in stock trim. So, if I was truly blessed with a super strong car off the line and Stillen actually did what they advertised, hey, it seemed plausible to me.

But to miss the mark AND get shown up by a stocker? Uugh! Without a baseline, I'm have to view this as no loss due to mods (maybe even picked up a bit of tq and hp along the line) BUT, without a doubt, mine sounds a whole bunch better!!

2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY

 

Gord, the stock 6mt sedan 4th gear pull was already in the shop's dyno database. It wasn't my car, and I'm taking the shop owner's word that it was indeed stock (Scott, the owner, might want to confirm this). However, I did a similar 4th gear pull with all mods on to compare mine to the stocker and posted both.

Also, even though I neglected to add this to the list of mods in the first post, I did have GroundingGear™ on when I tested. Twenty lashes with a wet hyper-ground wire - I'll update the mod list. Thanks.

2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY

 

You sure it wasn't a coupe? That would make more sense to me.

'03 AT Sedan | Silver/Willow | Sport | Premium | Aerokit w/Spoiler | Nav | Injen CAI | UR Pulley | Tein Flex w/EDFC | Stillen Rotors | Cusco Sways | TS ECU | Stillen Exhaust

 

99.99% certain that dyno chart belongs to g35driver member gould2000. His profile shows a sedan without a color. Never seen it, but I'll bet it's a black 6mt. Hello Scott, can you hear me now????

2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY

 

Quick...what's wrong with this pic?

2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY

166835-CIMG1064_0002.JPG

 

Nice runs Doug:-) Sorry it took so long to reply. Pretty busy at the last few days.. Mine is a blue 2004 6MT sedan. The only things that were installed at the time of the dyno were my own grounding kit and my own intake. (by my own, I mean I made them myself vs. buying kits) But, i did not do an ecu reset, after installing those. bob did the runs in 4th before I had a chance to realize it, and thus did not ask for a run in 5th. i was pretty happy with 237 STD, which i think is like 233 SAE. Doug, i'll reply to your email on the side later tonight.

 

Anybody experiance the gains of the Stillen headers and sedan exhaust together? Just talked with stillen, and they said that they will not offset each other, and will have close to additive gains (close is subjective of course). I have a sedan 6MT and am interested in both if the gains are somewhat or pretty close to additive. Otherwise, I will just go with the stillen exhaust. I have no other mods except K&N drop-in and stillen grounding kit.

 

Here's my logic... Based on a drivetrain loss of 17-18%, your numbers are higher at the crank than the stock coupe. Why would that be? I would expect that the Stillen sedan exhaust would be about as good performance-wise as the stock coupe exhaust. In addition, the coupe ECU is more aggressively timed.

So, if your sedan with an aftermarket exhaust is as higher or higher than a stock coupe then you are doing well, IMO.

--Steve

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

The only things that were installed at the time of the dyno were my own grounding kit and my own intake. (by my own, I mean I made them myself vs. buying kits)

<hr></blockquote>Aha! Thanks for clearing that up, now I feel better. Your homemade intake appears to be working rather well. Good job!


2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY

 

Thanks. it's not that I minda paying for good qaulity parts that require lots of R&D. But, in my past experience with Nissan cars and Nissan tuners, intakes are not that hard to develop, and there is not that much of a performance increase/difference between the brands that IMHO justifies me paying north of $200 for some on the market. no offense to anyone that does buy them, I just like to be creative where I can, and the intake setup is one area that i can be. (same goes for the grounding kit) Now, headers, thats another story, lol.

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>


Here's my logic... Based on a drivetrain loss of 17-18%, your numbers are higher at the crank than the stock coupe. Why would that be?

<hr></blockquote>

'Cause his DYNO numbers are in STD and should be in SAE accurate results.



2004 G35s auto (bone stock)
-----------------------------------
2002 s/c Accord V6 auto
so far best 1/4 mile - 13.9@101.8
coming soon: custom internals, cams, performance auto tranny w/LSD

 

<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

'Cause his DYNO numbers are in STD and should be in SAE accurate results.

<hr></blockquote>Comparing apples-to-apples is always an issue, so I had the shop print out the results with both STD and SAE corrections. Each were posted here.

- To review:

Dynamometers measure torque, which is a rotary motion (the wheel rotating) and convert it to Horsepower, which is a linear motion (like a horse pulling a weight). This gives you a figure you can brag about. However, there are many variables which can affect dyno results - such as dyno type, dyno accuracy, weather, dyno operator technique, etc. The majority of dyno charts use certain correction factors to adjust the measured power on a given day under given atmosphic conditions, and adjust them to what they should be if tested at sea level. There are several horsepower correction factors you may see on these dyno charts.

- The most recognized correction factors are:

SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), USA. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.23 InHg (99 kPa) of dry air and 77 F (25°C). This SAE standard requires a correction for friction torque. Friction torque can be determined by measurements on special motoring dynamometers (which is only practical in research environments) or can be estimated. When estimates must be used, the SAE standard uses a default Mechanical Efficiency (ME) value of 85%. This is approximately correct at peak torque but not at other engine operating speeds. Some dynamometer systems use the SAE correction factor for atmospheric conditions but do not take mechanical efficiency into consideration at all (i.e. they assume a ME of 100%).

STD or STP. Another power correction standard determined by the SAE. This standard has been stable for a long time and is widely used in the performance industry. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 29.92 InHg (103.3 kPa) of dry air and 60 F (15.5°C). Because the reference conditions include higher pressure and cooler air than the SAE standard, these corrected power numbers will always be about 4% higher than the SAE power numbers. Friction torque is handled in the same way as in the SAE standard.

ECE (European Community), Europe. The ECE standard is based on the European Directives. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 99 kPa (29.23 InHg) of dry air and 25°C (77 F). Friction torque is not taken into consideration at all.

DIN (Deutsche Industrie Norm), Germany. The DIN standard is determined by the German automotive industry. Power is corrected to reference conditions of 101.3 kPa (29.33 InHg) of dry air and 20°C (68 F). With the advent of European legislation and standards, national standards such as the DIN (formerly widely used) are now less significant.

Actual. You may see this on some charts. What this means is this is the actual horsepower achived on the day tested and no correction factor has been applied. One can assume better or worse results with varying weather conditions.

- Tip of the day: If the Dyno is a Dynojet one, ask for the run file on a floppy disk and you can download run viewer information from their website and convert between factors.

2004 | 6MTs | Diamond Graphite/Graphite
Upstate NY

 

Actually, due to gearing advantages in the lower gears you should run closer to the redline the lower gear you're in. A shift point of 6500rpm or so in first should be pretty close to optimal, but each gear will drop that back by 100-200rpm or so.

I've seen the car mags (R&T, C&D, MT) calculate it based on each individual gear's ratio and the final drive, but I haven't the foggiest exactly how.


Rick