yeah it's pretty in the sedans...

what version Turbonetics kit is that? I have the latest version w/ the upgraded and revised A/C lines and I know the older kits had some issues... bump for more FI'ed sedans

 

/\ /\ /\ /\ looks very very nice but i got it from www.turbo-kits.com so whatever version that one is..i know its not the tuner or anything like that

 

i hope u take ur car to SGP

 

I don't post much, but I have been pretty involved in the Supra community and have a 450+RWHP 1987 Supra Turbo. My 2004 G35 Sedan is turbonetics ST as of yesterday. It's getting set back down on the ground for it's maiden voyage tonight. I had it started and running on the jackstands last night with no leaks and smooth idle + smooth rev to 4k RPM.

I ordered the kit through Vinney Ten Racing who drop shipped it from Turbonetics to me <$5000 total. I installed it by myself in 2 days in my cluttered garage. I'm located near Chicago, IL (Rockford actually). Click here for photos of my car in process.

Some things that will be helpful if you are installing this yourself on a sedan:

- Turbonetics tech support is a pain in the *** to get a hold of. Don't waste your time emailing, call them. If they are in a meeting, ask when it will be over, and call them back yourself.
- The sedan fuel pump is not the same as the coupe/350z. You need to swap the pump itself, and ignore drilling holes and modifying the regulator per instructions. There's a video on youtube on how to do the fuel pump upgrade on the sedan. Do only what he does in the video (the guy doing the upgrade is a Turbonetics employee)
- The vacuum line provided crushes very easily. Go easy with the zip ties - don't crank them down.
- Take your car to the A/C shop and get the new A/C line installed FIRST. Once you send in your ECU for the reflash, your car is down until you're finished, and that line cannot be accessed later. (Ask me how i know.)
- I'm told the reflash is designed for the stock exhaust system and it is questionable as to how good a generic reflash is in general. If you have a free flowing catback, you will run more boost. More boost + a generic reflash is not a good idea so it would probably be wise to put the car on a dyno and make sure your A/F is within a reasonable range after install.
- There have been revisions to the kit. The latest instructions are Rev. D and the wastegate arrangement has been updated. Make sure your kit has the wastegate relocation assembly.
- The rev. "D" instructions tell you to set the lower O2 sensors aside to be re-installed later. The instructions later tell you to cap off the two extra bungs. You actually need to re-install the lower O2 sensors into those two bungs which leaves you no extra bungs for a WB. If you plan to dyno with WB or run an aftermarket WB O2 sensor, you should have one more welded in before you install the pipes.
- the large tap that is included was in a blue plastic box and hard to find. I never did find the small tap that was supposed to be there.

Good luck to any shade tree mechanic who tries this. The revised kit is absolutely fantastic in terms of fit and quality. The instructions need some hefty re-work. I don't recall using any really special tools. Small hands and patience are a must.

 

Definitely looks like a high quality kit.

 

Getting some ideas dave? The mechanicals of these kits isn't the problem for us. It's the freakin' type 1 ecu crap. Our connectors are of a diff design and isn't compatible with any of the harness adaptors available for Emanage, Utec, Unichip etc.. So you take you chances at a reflash, wait until the Osirys can work with a MAP sensor/ speed density or rewire your own wiring harness adaptor.

 

ahhh i remember when you ordered it--- i'm glad to see it working great. i'm still in need of a nice retune from Vinny -- just haven't had the opportunity to order the boost controller yet but it should put out great power w/ his tuning and years of experience

 

Just took the car out tonight. Drove it gently for 20 miles and then did a nice easy 3rd gear pull to 5,000RPM. Solid 8psi and running great. No MIL either. I have a problem with the engine stalling out when approaching a stop. ECU may need time to re-learn? It also seems to idle fairly low (500-600 RPM or so). Boost gauge reads a solid 20 at idle when it's idling though so maybe that's right.

Oddly, my airbag warning light is now flashing for some reason. I still have the glovebox out, so I'm guessing I have something under there unplugged... Will investigate that tomorrow.

 

My 2003 is kind of an oddball because was one of the last 03s built. It has a Type II motor according to the VIN search provided by DaveO though I should confirm that my ECU harness is correct. I won't be doing a turbo ever because I've not conviced of the VQ35's reliability under boost, but I will be doing an ECU flash.

 

i hear from all the guys on a houston imports forum that an ecu reflash will be crap and i HAVE to get a standalone of some sort..they also said that people have blown their VQ engines by not getting one..that i have not heard but have any of you??

would it be safe for me to drive on the ecu reflash alone even for a few weeks?

 

i've had no issues and a lot of guys from VTR are running reflashed ECU's and tuned by VinnyTenRacing.com... it all depends on who works on the car. computers are always a pain but i rather go to someone who's experienced.

i know guys that have the TN ST kit for a few years w/o a UTEC or standalone running fine daily driving.

 

+1

Lurker this is what we have been trying to tell you. Take it to a shop that knows VQ's and knows how to tune them. It makes a big difference! Just dont take it to a shop because its closer to your house or school, or even because they are cheaper than the other shops.

"Knowledge over prices any day" & Do it right the first time and dont cut corners

Like i said before, take it to SGP or Carboy. My friends G35 coupe was done by Carboy and it hasnt blown up yet. Its been 3 years or so. He had his motor stroked and other goodies and know none issues.

 

Quick update - My stalling and low idle problem was caused my my own minor error. When I bolted the upper plenum back on, I trapped the edge of the rubber "funnel" that's around the oil filler inbetween upper/lower plenum. This made a hairline crack at the front of the intake plenum.

Car is 100% back to good except for the airbag light. Airbags are sooo overrated anyways...

 

There is an airbag connector behind the glovebox. If you had that off and turned on the car your light will come on. It will go off after a while or you can do the reset. I moved my car without the driver's seat in when I was doing my coupe seat swap and had the same problem.

Reset:
https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...t=Airbag+light


Yes there have been quite a few people who have blown their motors on the re-flash. One of them is a friend out here in AZ. I would just spend the money and get a UTEC and do it right.

 

Also as an FYI - a fuel return kit is not quite the same so if you ever decide to go much above 8psi and need a return kit, talk to Charles (CJ Motorsports) and he can make one to order for your car.