Painted the lower sills yesterday
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Painted the lower sills yesterday
DIY here: https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...59#post2413159
Before – gray nastiness and tiny OEM exhaust tips

After with 2007 Altima Fat Body tips and gold calipers (don't show up well)



Before – gray nastiness and tiny OEM exhaust tips

After with 2007 Altima Fat Body tips and gold calipers (don't show up well)



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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by G35_TX
Why do it with a spray can?! It's a Infiniti! I can't believe you treat it like a Chevy. 


In response to your "sad ghetto garage paint job", lack of flex agent in the paint, "should have used extra clear", and "paint on the tips" in the DIY post, here are your answers.
1) I did it myself because I wanted to nor did I want to spend the $400 to have a shop do it. I had the equipment so why not?
2) Yes, dust and particles do have the potential to have gotten in the paint since I wasn't using a paint booth, but these are the lower sills. They will endure a lot of abuse, nor will they have gloss finish since the plastic is slightly grained which refracts light. If you were to see the paint up close, you'd see there are no flaws other than the ones that were already in the plastic from 6 years of life on the road. I cleaned my garage prior to the start of work and the air outside was very still. The panels were prepped far more than most shop ever would do.
3) I did not use flex agent because according to my research and discussions with the paint vendors, the usefulness of flex agent is debateable and it can cause paint application issues. Also, all these panels are in areas that will indure very little flex, if any at all.
4) The paint used is factory code KH3. It is a combo of base and clear. It's a one application process. I had the option of doing base coat then clear coat, but I chose to stick with the way Nissan does it plus it's easier and a bit cheaper. Three light coats is what I used.
5) There isn't one particle of overspray on the tips because the tips were removed from the car during the painting process.
I hope that addresses all your concerns
Last edited by DaveB; Nov 5, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
I didn't see the other thread till now. You basically did it the way a shop does but without certain items that help the paint cure as well.
Good job for a garage one.
Good job for a garage one.
Originally Posted by DaveB
The only thing applied with a spray can was adhesion promoter which is the way most every shop will do it. Everything else was applied with a spray gun. All the materials used were higher end PPG products. This was not a rattle can job. FYI- That thing in my hand is not a spray can:

In response to your "sad ghetto garage paint job", lack of flex agent in the paint, "should have used extra clear", and "paint on the tips" in the DIY post, here are your answers.
1) I did it myself because I wanted to nor did I want to spend the $400 to have a shop do it. I had the equipment so why not?
2) Yes, dust and particles do have the potential to have gotten in the paint since I wasn't using a paint booth, but these are the lower sills. They will endure a lot of abuse, nor will they have gloss finish since the plastic is slightly grained which refracts light. If you were to see the paint up close, you'd see there are no flaws other than the ones that were already in the plastic from 6 years of life on the road. I cleaned my garage prior to the start of work and the air outside was very still. The panels were prepped far more than most shop ever would do.
3) I did not use flex agent because according to my research and discussions with the paint vendors, the usefulness of flex agent is debateable and it can cause paint application issues. Also, all these panels are in areas that will indure very little flex, if any at all.
4) The paint used is factory code KH3. It is a combo of base and clear. It's a one application process. I had the option of doing base coat then clear coat, but I chose to stick with the way Nissan does it plus it's easier and a bit cheaper. Three light coats is what I used.
5) There isn't one particle of overspray on the tips because the tips were removed from the car during the painting process.
I hope that addresses all your concerns

In response to your "sad ghetto garage paint job", lack of flex agent in the paint, "should have used extra clear", and "paint on the tips" in the DIY post, here are your answers.
1) I did it myself because I wanted to nor did I want to spend the $400 to have a shop do it. I had the equipment so why not?
2) Yes, dust and particles do have the potential to have gotten in the paint since I wasn't using a paint booth, but these are the lower sills. They will endure a lot of abuse, nor will they have gloss finish since the plastic is slightly grained which refracts light. If you were to see the paint up close, you'd see there are no flaws other than the ones that were already in the plastic from 6 years of life on the road. I cleaned my garage prior to the start of work and the air outside was very still. The panels were prepped far more than most shop ever would do.
3) I did not use flex agent because according to my research and discussions with the paint vendors, the usefulness of flex agent is debateable and it can cause paint application issues. Also, all these panels are in areas that will indure very little flex, if any at all.
4) The paint used is factory code KH3. It is a combo of base and clear. It's a one application process. I had the option of doing base coat then clear coat, but I chose to stick with the way Nissan does it plus it's easier and a bit cheaper. Three light coats is what I used.
5) There isn't one particle of overspray on the tips because the tips were removed from the car during the painting process.
I hope that addresses all your concerns

Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by G35_TX
I didn't see the other thread till now. You basically did it the way a shop does but without certain items that help the paint cure as well.
Good job for a garage one.
Good job for a garage one.
Great job dave. You got a shot real close? ie.. like the fatboy tip shot right at eye level?
I think because his car is black there is alot less color matching concerns. I've painted before but I dont' know if I'd tackle this on a BS color.
I think because his car is black there is alot less color matching concerns. I've painted before but I dont' know if I'd tackle this on a BS color.
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 6,573
Likes: 72
From: Kansas City
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Great job dave. You got a shot real close? ie.. like the fatboy tip shot right at eye level?
I think because his car is black there is alot less color matching concerns. I've painted before but I dont' know if I'd tackle this on a BS color.
I think because his car is black there is alot less color matching concerns. I've painted before but I dont' know if I'd tackle this on a BS color.
I agree, trying to paint match any type of silver or metallic would be a problem. Even professional shops have problems with this and even the factory. White (non-pearl), gray (no metallic), and black (no metallic) are the easiest to match.
ive had my car repainted, here is a shot of my lower sills (with a little zaino, but still shiney without). They look about the same as this stock on the later years.
You should be able to shine those up, even if you dont wet sand you should be able to use a DA or rotary and really get them shiney.
You should be able to shine those up, even if you dont wet sand you should be able to use a DA or rotary and really get them shiney.
Last edited by Konsole; Nov 5, 2007 at 03:00 PM.





