G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Painted the lower sills yesterday

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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:32 PM
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Painted the lower sills yesterday

DIY here: https://g35driver.com/forums/showthr...59#post2413159

Before – gray nastiness and tiny OEM exhaust tips



After with 2007 Altima Fat Body tips and gold calipers (don't show up well)







 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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huge difference!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:35 PM
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Lookin' good
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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looks realli good ..that is a huge difference!
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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Even on black it helps so much. I'm sure in person it looks even better.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 10:38 PM
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thats a sweet DIY...

thanks for the info.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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Why do it with a spray can?! It's a Infiniti! I can't believe you treat it like a Chevy.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
Why do it with a spray can?! It's a Infiniti! I can't believe you treat it like a Chevy.
The only thing applied with a spray can was adhesion promoter which is the way most every shop will do it. Everything else was applied with a spray gun. All the materials used were higher end PPG products. This was not a rattle can job. FYI- That thing in my hand is not a spray can:



In response to your "sad ghetto garage paint job", lack of flex agent in the paint, "should have used extra clear", and "paint on the tips" in the DIY post, here are your answers.

1) I did it myself because I wanted to nor did I want to spend the $400 to have a shop do it. I had the equipment so why not?

2) Yes, dust and particles do have the potential to have gotten in the paint since I wasn't using a paint booth, but these are the lower sills. They will endure a lot of abuse, nor will they have gloss finish since the plastic is slightly grained which refracts light. If you were to see the paint up close, you'd see there are no flaws other than the ones that were already in the plastic from 6 years of life on the road. I cleaned my garage prior to the start of work and the air outside was very still. The panels were prepped far more than most shop ever would do.

3) I did not use flex agent because according to my research and discussions with the paint vendors, the usefulness of flex agent is debateable and it can cause paint application issues. Also, all these panels are in areas that will indure very little flex, if any at all.

4) The paint used is factory code KH3. It is a combo of base and clear. It's a one application process. I had the option of doing base coat then clear coat, but I chose to stick with the way Nissan does it plus it's easier and a bit cheaper. Three light coats is what I used.

5) There isn't one particle of overspray on the tips because the tips were removed from the car during the painting process.

I hope that addresses all your concerns
 

Last edited by DaveB; Nov 5, 2007 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 10:32 AM
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Looks very good Dave, big difference.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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I didn't see the other thread till now. You basically did it the way a shop does but without certain items that help the paint cure as well.

Good job for a garage one.

Originally Posted by DaveB
The only thing applied with a spray can was adhesion promoter which is the way most every shop will do it. Everything else was applied with a spray gun. All the materials used were higher end PPG products. This was not a rattle can job. FYI- That thing in my hand is not a spray can:



In response to your "sad ghetto garage paint job", lack of flex agent in the paint, "should have used extra clear", and "paint on the tips" in the DIY post, here are your answers.

1) I did it myself because I wanted to nor did I want to spend the $400 to have a shop do it. I had the equipment so why not?

2) Yes, dust and particles do have the potential to have gotten in the paint since I wasn't using a paint booth, but these are the lower sills. They will endure a lot of abuse, nor will they have gloss finish since the plastic is slightly grained which refracts light. If you were to see the paint up close, you'd see there are no flaws other than the ones that were already in the plastic from 6 years of life on the road. I cleaned my garage prior to the start of work and the air outside was very still. The panels were prepped far more than most shop ever would do.

3) I did not use flex agent because according to my research and discussions with the paint vendors, the usefulness of flex agent is debateable and it can cause paint application issues. Also, all these panels are in areas that will indure very little flex, if any at all.

4) The paint used is factory code KH3. It is a combo of base and clear. It's a one application process. I had the option of doing base coat then clear coat, but I chose to stick with the way Nissan does it plus it's easier and a bit cheaper. Three light coats is what I used.

5) There isn't one particle of overspray on the tips because the tips were removed from the car during the painting process.

I hope that addresses all your concerns
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
I didn't see the other thread till now. You basically did it the way a shop does but without certain items that help the paint cure as well.
Good job for a garage one.
I agree, the curing was an initial concern because the outside temps were borderline safe (low 60s). My paint mix ratio was set for low temps (60 to 70 degrees), therefore I had to be very careful handling the parts, even after letting them sit for 8 hours. The lower temps don't allow the solvents to volatilize out of the paint as quickly. Some shops will bake the parts for 30-40 minutes at 140 degrees and some don't. From what I've read, baking the parts isn't as common now because the paints have gotten so good over the past 10 years.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 12:01 PM
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Great job dave. You got a shot real close? ie.. like the fatboy tip shot right at eye level?

I think because his car is black there is alot less color matching concerns. I've painted before but I dont' know if I'd tackle this on a BS color.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Great job dave. You got a shot real close? ie.. like the fatboy tip shot right at eye level?

I think because his car is black there is alot less color matching concerns. I've painted before but I dont' know if I'd tackle this on a BS color.
Which shot? With or without paint?

I agree, trying to paint match any type of silver or metallic would be a problem. Even professional shops have problems with this and even the factory. White (non-pearl), gray (no metallic), and black (no metallic) are the easiest to match.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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From: ɐʍ 'ǝlʇʇɐǝs
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Like the one were I was ribbing you about the swirls in the paint. eye level looking right at the rear bumper, lower sill and rear quarter
 
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 02:58 PM
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ive had my car repainted, here is a shot of my lower sills (with a little zaino, but still shiney without). They look about the same as this stock on the later years.

You should be able to shine those up, even if you dont wet sand you should be able to use a DA or rotary and really get them shiney.

 

Last edited by Konsole; Nov 5, 2007 at 03:00 PM.
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