Where do you get those at?

 

Plenty of places are selling them right now, including www.everythingg35.com although I'm not sure they have the best price.

 

From www.everythingg35.com:
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I went with the Stillen Sways and the GT Spec Front Lower Tie Brace. I will most likely work on the rear suspension (Rear Tie Brace, Lateral Arm Brace) a little more next time I get a little "G Spending $". Will post pics once both parts arrive and are installed. Anyone know if I need to get a realignment done with swaybars? Thanks!

And DoFu, Dave, etc...please don't turn this thread into an argument. Too many people reading and interested in it to get to that point. Thanks!

 

My car looks stock enough, so I can get away with telling people it's only dropped with a muffler. And plus, I don't consider bolt-on parts like intake, headers, exhaust, let alone parts like clear corners and z-tube as real mods.

Don't worry, when he pulled out the ricer logic, I figure it's a waste of breath trying to explain the principles of handling... they can figure it out for themselves some day.

 

Ricer logic about lowering a car, really......

http://www.edmunds.com/advice/fuelec...4/article.html


This article was just one of hundreds a simple search of Google pulled up. "Ricer logic" when it comes to lowering is dropping a car well outside of the suspension's ability to work and do it's job. I could go on at great length about this, but this isn't the place. Simply put, there is a right way to lower a car and a wrong way. Please do not group me into the ricer category.

 

Dave:

What setting do you have your Stillen sways set to? I have Z/Coup springs on now and looking to get sways put on in the spring.

 

I don't have sway bars yet. From what I've read of those that actually road race and auto-X, the bars are usually slightly stiffer than stock at thier lowest setting so many people find running the front bar at the lowest setting and the rear bar at the medium setting seems to work good for many (a little more rotation dialed in) and others find puting the front medium and keeping the rear at the lowest setting works best (a bit more understeer). I'd think the bars at their stiffest setting would be total overkill unless maybe you were running race-spec rubber. Maybe.

 

When u come to socal make sure to PM so i can take u for a spin with my "riced out" suspension and see how it compares to ur stock car.

 

If I could start all over with my car I would have only performed handling mods until I could have gone FI. This car is just to exspense to add power to if only NA mods are being performed.

 

Changing just the springs well help the car's direction changing more than just switching the shocks. That is a fact and there is no need arguing about it. Springs are the ones that compress not the shocks.

Yes if u want it right then both should be changed matching the physical height of the spring and the spring rate.

 

I actually called today and asked for an exchange. I'm now getting Hot Wheels decals to run the length of my passenger and driver side doors along with a 4" single can muffler with whistle tip to boot! My APC windshield decal will be here soon along with my larger than stock Supra Whale Tail spoiler. Man I can't wait to pimp out my G!


Or not... just wanted dofu to see what real ricer logic looked like as compared to someone who's done enough research on enough topics when it come to vehicles for me to respect even though I sometimes disagree with him. Thanks for the input Dave.

 

Technically, you do want to change both, but springs alone would be fine for street driving. But if it was performance you were going after, struts are the most important piece of the suspension, and also the first piece of the suspension you want to upgrade. If you drop your car at all, you are changing your suspension's geometry enough to where your stock struts aren't working the way they were built to work. Technically, you have to worry about roll center too, but I don't want to get into all of that right now... We'll focus on something simpler first.


Think of it this way, being low can be good for handling, but does any of that matter when those expensive tires you have aren't getting traction because your stock struts aren't working properly or just not good enough? Granted, stock sport struts aren't that bad, but they aren't that good either, especially once you've lowered your car at all. It really isn't that big of a deal being dropped on stock struts for regular daily driving, but it's going to matter when you're taking that high speed turn. It'll matter even more when you hit a bump in the middle of that turn, and you need traction back.

 

Dofu. I think most won't argue your points too much. But Dave suggested using either the Z or Coupe springs. If the sedan owner is on the non-sport suspension, then both of these springs feature slightly higher spring rates and lower the car up to 1.0". Both will help handling. It's undeniable.

Now on the issue of shocks, technically using the non-sport shocks might not work well. But I do believe Dave said to use the Z or coupe shocks. Both are perfectly fine and are matched to the springs he suggested. If he's on a sport suspension, his stock shocks are fine. And the 1" lower springs won't affect the shock's performance at all. Only at the very extreme will it "might" bottom out and damage the shock.

The ride height doesn't affect the shock's ability to handle the car. Unless the ride height is so low it causes the shock to bottom out when the springs are compressed all the way. As long as the shock is able to handle the spring rate currently on the car, it's fine. Especially when we are only talking about 1" max. There's nothing wrong with upgrading your shocks even on a stock suspension or with Z/Coupe springs. I'll be running Konis and z/coupe springs.

The ultimate performane gain from swapping stock springs/shocks might not be that great. Question is, is it the same/better/less than adding these tie bars that are only bolt on. And the sedan doesn't have the chassis bar available that I'd like to have.

Okay ugh. Why are you two even arguing? Dude already has a full 350z suspension. I assume it means he has the matching shocks.

 

dofu the way u were sounding is that changing just the springs is rice without specifying which springs, how much lower and the spring rate. Now the bottom line is that changing springs with stock shocks is going to reduce body roll and which means that the car is going to change direction much faster.

Changing the shock without touching the stock spring is going to do absolutely NOTHING to improve the handling of the car. If u have stiff a$$ springs on the car that lower the car 10 inches, yes aftermarket shocks are necessary to match the height/rate of the aftermarket spring.

 

Like I said, I never said not to drop your car, and yes, calling someone on a ricer statement can be a low blow, but...

I can understand the barely marginal aerodynamic gains from a 3" drop, but this man is talking about a 1" drop...