Sedan Specific Rear D-Spec Adjusters
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From: SoCal - Beach Cities/RPV/RHE/Harbor Area
Originally Posted by OCG35
Thanks for the replys guys
Affirmative on the part number... and thanks Marcus, that’s where I saw there are two lengths
I actually like the idea of the longer because I think I might try to rout it to the trunk - or possibly under the child seat latch cover... I want it to be hidden until I need to adjust it - I figure longer will give me more options for location...
But Tokico and the place that we bought these both say there is only one length
Oh well, I'll make it work - I'll post pics of what I end up doing (having done) tomorrow.
Affirmative on the part number... and thanks Marcus, that’s where I saw there are two lengths
I actually like the idea of the longer because I think I might try to rout it to the trunk - or possibly under the child seat latch cover... I want it to be hidden until I need to adjust it - I figure longer will give me more options for location...
But Tokico and the place that we bought these both say there is only one length
Oh well, I'll make it work - I'll post pics of what I end up doing (having done) tomorrow.
the longer cables are available, maybe not in the US, but they are. whoever you spoke to at tokico was definitely not aware of them.
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: OC - So Cal
I spoke to Ray in the tech support area of Tokico North America in Compton... maybe it’s just not a US part.
I did see your pics Dexter, thanks for posting them. Very good option, but I'm going for something a little different.
I appreciate all the responses in the thread - install vids for Dex's location will be a cool contribution to the DIY vids thread
I did see your pics Dexter, thanks for posting them. Very good option, but I'm going for something a little different.
I appreciate all the responses in the thread - install vids for Dex's location will be a cool contribution to the DIY vids thread
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From: SoCal - Beach Cities/RPV/RHE/Harbor Area
^ - correct. its not a US part (yet, anyway). the longer cables are a cross-compatible part for HTS series shocks for non-US applications, based on the discussion i had with tokico 2 years ago.
be advised though... if you're planning on getting the extra long cables to route into the trunk, theyre about twice the length... but may not be long enough to be conveniently placed...
id like to see pics of this install if you go that route...
be advised though... if you're planning on getting the extra long cables to route into the trunk, theyre about twice the length... but may not be long enough to be conveniently placed...
id like to see pics of this install if you go that route...
Got these installed last night. Dexter was right, the standard length is definitely long enough (to reach right behind the head rest) and the install was not difficult at all. Just remove the rear seats and install the adjuster onto the top of the shock. No drilling required
Thanks again Dexter for taking the time to help me with this
I'll get some pics up later this week.
Thanks again Dexter for taking the time to help me with this
I'll get some pics up later this week.
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
I almost forgot about this… I installed mine over the weekend – the cables are not long enough do to anything other than run them behind the seat… Initially I was going to rout them to the trunk through the foam in the back trunk wall (to the outside of the top of strut) – they will barely make it but about an (maybe even only ˝”) too short to be convenient… this would have been a perfect location for adjuster to be accessed from trunk – I took a pic from seat side of the location (I didn’t bother taking pic from trunk side because I decided not to do it) – crappy phone pic with no light:

I just tuck mine under the seatbelt so it’s out of view. As Marcus and Dexter stated, its real simple – remove lower beach and each seat back and install.
I’m hoping a longer version is released at some point – because there are a lot of cool locations these can be routed to – if they had a little more length.

I just tuck mine under the seatbelt so it’s out of view. As Marcus and Dexter stated, its real simple – remove lower beach and each seat back and install.
I’m hoping a longer version is released at some point – because there are a lot of cool locations these can be routed to – if they had a little more length.
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
FWIW here's a review of the struts themselves - copied form another thread:
Originally Posted by OCG35
Finally got mine installed over the weekend
Much improved from non-sport stock struts! I really like the adjustability of dampening - I started 3 turns from stiff and although it’s a notably rougher ride, it’s much better handling and easier to control the car over high speed bumps. For example, previously when I encountered slight variances in road level on fwy, I'd let off the accelerator upon entry and accelerate just as I end the deviation - this way I could control the cars characteristics while navigating the bumps/whoopdedoos... Not using this technique would cause the car to bounce and float over the bumps, sometimes loosing a bit of traction and rebounding heavily on front end (scraping my Kurookie bumper).
With the D-Specs I can take the same roads at consistent speed enter and exit the deviated portion of the road swiftly without the car acting erratically. It’s a nice control and makes handling the car easier.
Also, I went to the drag strip over the weekend and did as suggested in the manual (also common physics sense) - which is set at softest setting front and rear in order to help distribute weight to rear upon launch (front up, rear squat)... it seemed to work pretty well (coil-overs at softest rear setting would be better for this, but its nice to have this option just from struts)... Softest is 7 turns from stiff (according to manual, even though you can turn it about 11 times before it stops)... If anyone decides to do this, be sure to stiffen them back up before leaving the track - not only is the softest setting going to create the problem mentioned in first paragraph (even worse), it also introduced a clunking sound that perplexed me initially - I thought it was my new A-Arms, and even jacked the car up and looked under for anything loose... the front struts were already re-adjusted but I had not stiffened the rears yet... I drove out of the track to local gas station and adjusted rears before getting on fwy and the sound was gone
At any rate... I've only driven on them over the weekend - and don’t drive the car daily - so from what I have experienced so far, I recommend the D-Specs for sure. Especially if you are non-sport OEM and even for sport suspension due to the d-spec flexibility.
FWIW, I'm using Eibach Pro with these struts. I'll post a copy of this review in the suspension section.
Footnote: purchased from THMotorsports - great price and fast shipping (just took me a long time to get them installed (too many engine projects going on).
Much improved from non-sport stock struts! I really like the adjustability of dampening - I started 3 turns from stiff and although it’s a notably rougher ride, it’s much better handling and easier to control the car over high speed bumps. For example, previously when I encountered slight variances in road level on fwy, I'd let off the accelerator upon entry and accelerate just as I end the deviation - this way I could control the cars characteristics while navigating the bumps/whoopdedoos... Not using this technique would cause the car to bounce and float over the bumps, sometimes loosing a bit of traction and rebounding heavily on front end (scraping my Kurookie bumper).
With the D-Specs I can take the same roads at consistent speed enter and exit the deviated portion of the road swiftly without the car acting erratically. It’s a nice control and makes handling the car easier.
Also, I went to the drag strip over the weekend and did as suggested in the manual (also common physics sense) - which is set at softest setting front and rear in order to help distribute weight to rear upon launch (front up, rear squat)... it seemed to work pretty well (coil-overs at softest rear setting would be better for this, but its nice to have this option just from struts)... Softest is 7 turns from stiff (according to manual, even though you can turn it about 11 times before it stops)... If anyone decides to do this, be sure to stiffen them back up before leaving the track - not only is the softest setting going to create the problem mentioned in first paragraph (even worse), it also introduced a clunking sound that perplexed me initially - I thought it was my new A-Arms, and even jacked the car up and looked under for anything loose... the front struts were already re-adjusted but I had not stiffened the rears yet... I drove out of the track to local gas station and adjusted rears before getting on fwy and the sound was gone
At any rate... I've only driven on them over the weekend - and don’t drive the car daily - so from what I have experienced so far, I recommend the D-Specs for sure. Especially if you are non-sport OEM and even for sport suspension due to the d-spec flexibility.
FWIW, I'm using Eibach Pro with these struts. I'll post a copy of this review in the suspension section.
Footnote: purchased from THMotorsports - great price and fast shipping (just took me a long time to get them installed (too many engine projects going on).
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by SLVR JDM
Nice! How do these actually attach to the top of the shock / adjuster? I might have to order a set of these.
So to answer your question simply - it just screws right on. These are a must for d-specs… otherwise you’ll have to remove the seat any time you want to adjust them.
I just wish we could figure out how to get those long ones in the US
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 17,181
Likes: 154
From: OC - So Cal
Originally Posted by dahkyne
^ - i can get them. but before i place an order and wait eons before seeing pre-paid product, would you like the specs first?
Anything you can find out is worth considering.
Thanks
Originally Posted by OCG35
there is a little (tiny actually) hex pin that goes into the top of the strut... on the fronts its a key (removable of course)... on the rears (what this thread is about) its a 6" or so cable that screws right onto the top of the strut (the hex pin is attached to the end of the cable that screws in).
So to answer your question simply - it just screws right on. These are a must for d-specs… otherwise you’ll have to remove the seat any time you want to adjust them.
I just wish we could figure out how to get those long ones in the US
So to answer your question simply - it just screws right on. These are a must for d-specs… otherwise you’ll have to remove the seat any time you want to adjust them.
I just wish we could figure out how to get those long ones in the US
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