i am convinced!
okay, now i save few hundred of dollars and an engine!
hmmmmm...
what what else should i do to my car then?
i have everything that's na, last mod to install would be my headers.
i have cats, custom built straight pipe from cats to my r34 tanabe exhaust, spacers, CAI, i think there's more but i forgot. any suggestions for my next mod?
keep in mind, i dont want to supercharge or turbo it yet. lol. <--- not as rich as i were before the recession.

 

Get it and post pics and a few vids!

Or oil consumption, depending on which motor you have, and if you still have warranty or not

I'm sorry, who are you???

 

Forget about the headers and get a dyno tune instead. You'll make more gains and you'll spend less money.

 

Dyno tuned eh?
what exactly does it do?
and what can i gain from it?
where can it be done?
and how much will it cost?

 

Actually got my car dyno tuned by Uprev which is pretty well known on the boards. I just have the basic bolt-ons so I was running a little on the lean side. They corrected the a/f ratio and tweeked some other stuff as well. I think gained 15hp and 12 tq if I remember right. But each car is different and the results will vary. But I would still recommend doing it.

 

^ What he said

The headers will cost $500-1k for the install alone and after the tune, you might have an extra 2hp or so on top...

 

wtf is up with this thread???

there is some weird **** happening on driver these days. Maybe its drawing to a close... might be time to move on...

 

So the op has an automatic transmission 04 g35x and wants to shoot flames out of his exhaust. You know back in the 50's they used to install a spark plug in the exhaust tip that ran to a spare ignition coil. They would tune the cars to run rich and while revving the engine complete the spare ignition circuit lighting the spark plug and subsequently shoot flames out the exhaust. Other than that usually only high strung or poorly tuned turbo cars shoot flames between shifts. OP where are you from, how old are you, and why does your english suck?

 

I'm not leaving, I actually am amused by the new tools on here. Gives me a chance to use the flamethrower even more.

However I would like to do this to a couple of our newest members.

Driver is still the most comprehensive and informative forum out there for our cars...........

 

i'll keep this in mind!

 

the installation part i can do it myself, it's not hard at all, i have installed them on 350z and some coupes on the spare time. this time, it's my own. just got to find a day to get em on the lift and start installing.

 

don't sound that safe IMO.
imagine when you shoot flame, it actually shot the opposite way?
wont i be in deep ****?
or the flame just sits there and just travels all inside the pipes?
this, i would do if i just want to half a$$ everything.
i rather waste money on a bee-r to keep it on the safe side.
thanks for the info. i appreciate it.

 

OK lemme spell it out for you as simple as possible. Besides the fact that your engine is Naturally Aspirated...meaning it is not turbo charged or supercharged (supercharged cars don't normally if ever shoot any kind of flame) Plus the fact that you have an Automatic Transmission..your car will never shoot flames!! My god this is the dumbest conversation I have ever typed on the internet. The reason the cars that shoot a flame out of the exhaust do is due to a few items.

The following applies to cars equipped with either a stock or aftermarket turbo charger.*1

*1-A turbocharger, or turbo, is a gas compressor used for forced-induction of an internal combustion engine. Like a supercharger, the purpose of a turbocharger is to increase the density of air entering the engine to create more power. However, a turbocharger differs in that the compressor is powered by a turbine driven by the engine's own exhaust gases.
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1. stick shift. This normally happens during high speed driving when the driver keeps the pedal to the floor in between gears. This dumps excess fuel and air into the combustion chamber which directly maintains full boost pressure while changing gears allowing the vehicle to accelerate lag*2 free. Once the next gear is achieved and the clutch is re-engaged all that excess fuel is sent out the exhaust usually with a very nice sound and sometimes even a fireball.

*2- The time required to bring the turbo up to a speed where it can function effectively is called turbo lag. This is noticed as a hesitation in throttle response when coming off idle. This is symptomatic of the time taken for the exhaust system driving the turbine to come to high pressure and for the turbine rotor to overcome its rotational inertia and reach the speed necessary to supply boost pressure. The directly-driven compressor in a supercharger does not suffer this from problem. (Centrifugal superchargers do not build boost at low RPMs like a positive displacement supercharger will). Conversely on light loads or at low RPM a turbocharger supplies less boost and the engine acts like a naturally aspirated engine.


Your automatic transmission does not allow the engine to load up on fuel like a manual trans does therefore your option is to sell your car and purchase a manual transmission version. (sorry no X's with the stick shift) add yourself a large turbo..keep the tune a little phat and ummm enjoy the flaming goodness.

Example videos....


The second video the supra is equipped with launch control...or a studder box. This allows the user to preset an rpm rev limiter that when stopped said user can hold the clutch down while flooring the gas pedal on the vehicle and the engine will not rev over the preset limit thus building boost so that when the user releases the clutch they are launching at or near full boost.

 

Just found this info on your Bee-R. which is designed for TURBO cars. Just like I described in the previous post it is a rev limiter to assist in building boost.

The Bee Racing Rev Limiter cuts ignition when the rev limit has been hit, ensuring protection of the engine in all conditions.

* Cuts ignition on hitting a rev limit
* Fuel cut is not used, therefore flames can appear as fuel is dumped out of the exhaust
* Iginition cut is preferred over fuel cut. Fuel cut, as used on many standard vehicles, risks damage to high performance engines when at high revs.
* Ignition cut is used in F1, WRC and other forms of motorsport
* Should only be installed by an experienced mechanic
* The Bee Racing Rev Limiter is suitable for a large range of vehicles. See the Bee Racing vehicle compatibility reference before purchase.

 

I feel like it will.

would someone please disconnect a coil pack, and report back to me?