G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

what brakes do i have?

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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 03:39 PM
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what brakes do i have?

hey everybody i bought a used 2003 sedan g35 a few months ago... how do i tell what brakes i have? are all oem brakes brembos? i tried searching for it but the only internet access i have right now is on my phone and its slow. any help would be appreciated.

the reason im asking is my rotors arent drilled and slotted and i was wondering if i would have to change my calipers if i bought new rotors. i am about to paint my calipers and i probably wont do it if i have to change my calipers too.

dan
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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brembos were never an option on sedans.
03/04 G35 6MT Coupes had brembos
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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You just have normal 03/04 G35 sedan brakes. Nothing special.


Drilled and slotted rotors aren't performance rotors. They look pretty, but good performance rotors are usually solid. And the ones that are drilled are usually massive and expensive since the metal is usually a better quality and the rotor is cast with the holes in it. If anything decreasing the mass in a stock OEM 11" rotor increases fade because more heat is concentrated in a smaller mass.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by djosephm
hey everybody i bought a used 2003 sedan g35 a few months ago... how do i tell what brakes i have? are all oem brakes brembos? i tried searching for it but the only internet access i have right now is on my phone and its slow. any help would be appreciated.

the reason im asking is my rotors arent drilled and slotted and i was wondering if i would have to change my calipers if i bought new rotors. i am about to paint my calipers and i probably wont do it if i have to change my calipers too.

dan
+1 to the above post from Mustang5L5. Drill/slot is more for looks than performance. I have mine drilled and slotted, calipers painted black with silver Infiniti stickers on them (got them off ebay) and I love the way they look. You do not have to change your calipers when you change your rotors, but should probably change the pads if they are pretty worn since you have the brakes apart. The 03-04 had smaller brakes than the 05-06 and the pads dust (makes your wheels dirty) alot to make the car stop in a short distance. If you want less dusting look at ceramic pads, but you trade off performance for less dust. Some on here like the Hawk pads for the less dust, but still good braking performance. From what I have read, they are not as good as stock on a cold stop, but I do not have personal experience with them.
 
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Old Jul 5, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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Don't get me wrong, drill/slotted rotors are still plenty fine for your average street driven car that just has to make routine 30-0MPH stops all the time with a rare panic stop.

My point is not to buy drilled rotors and think that the holes make you stop better or something like that.

Even i wouldn't mind some x-drilled rotors for looks
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:42 PM
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That's what I'm going for guys!!! Looks! lol
 
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Old Jul 6, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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You Don't need Drilled or Slotted Rotors for a Hummer.

While I'll agree to a certain point, here's some quotes from many known brake engineers and brake manufacturers in regards to slotting vs. drilled vs. normal.
-----------
Darrick Dong; Director of Motorsports at Performance Friction: "Anyone that
tells you that drilling makes the disc run cooler is smoking crack."

Power Slot: "At one time the conventional wisdom in racing circles was to cross-drill brake rotors to aid cooling and eliminate the gas emitted by brake pads. However, today's elite teams in open wheel, Indy and Trans Am racing are moving away from crack prone, cross-drilled brake rotors in favor of rotors modified with a fatigue resistant slotting process."

Stop Tech: "StopTech provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications slotted is the preferred choice. Slotting helps wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the "bite" characteristics of the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage. Many customers prefer the look of a drilled rotor and for street and occasional light duty track use they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors." (Note that even though Stop Tech sells both drilled and slotted rotors they do not recommend drilled rotors for severe applications.)

Wilwood: "Q: Why are some rotors drilled or slotted?
A: Rotors are drilled to reduce rotating weight, an issue near and dear to racers searching for ways to minimize unsprung weight. Drilling diminishes a rotor's durability and cooling capacity."

From Waren Gilliand: (Warren Gilliland is a well-known brake engineer in the racing industry and has more than 32 years experience in custom designing brake systems ...he became the main source for improving the brake systems on a variety of different race vehicles from midgets to Nascar Winston Cup cars.) "If you cross drill one of these vented rotors, you are creating a stress riser that will encourage the rotor to crack right through the hole. Many of the rotors available in the aftermarket are nothing more than inexpensive offshore manufactured stock replacement rotors, cross drilled to appeal to the performance market. They are not performance rotors and will have a corresponding high failure rate"


From Baer: "What are the benefits to Crossdrilling, Slotting, and Zinc-Washing my rotors? In years past, crossdrilling and/or Slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads...However, with today's race pad technology, 'outgassing' is no longer much of a concern...Slotted surfaces are what Baer recommends for track only use. Slotted only rotors are offered as an option for any of Baer's offerings."

Grassroots Motorsports: "Crossdrilling your rotors might look neat, but what is it really doing for you? Well, unless your car is using brake pads from the '40s and 50s, not a whole lot. Rotors were first drilled because early brake pad materials gave off gasses when heated to racing temperatures, a process known as "gassing out." ...It was an effective solution, but today's friction materials do not exhibit the some gassing out phenomenon as the early pads. Contrary to popular belief, they don't lower temperatures. (In fact, by removing weight from the rotor, they can actually cause
temperatures to increase a little.) These holes create stress risers that allow the rotor to crack sooner, and make a mess of brake pads--sort of like a cheese grater rubbing against them at every stop. Want more evidence? Look at NASCAR or F1. You would think that if drilling holes in the rotor was the hot ticket, these teams would be doing it...Slotting rotors, on the other hand, might be a consideration if your sanctioning body allows for it. Cutting thin slots across the face of the rotor can actually help to clean
the face of the brake pads over time, helping to reduce the glazing often found during high-speed use which can lower the coefficient of friction. While there may still be a small concern over creating stress risers in the face of the rotor, if the slots are shallow and cut properly, the trade-off appears to be worth the risk. (Have you looked at a NASCAR rotor lately?)

AP Racing: "Grooves improve 'cleaning' of the pad surfaces and result in a more consistent brake performance. Grooved discs have a longer life than cross-drilled discs."

Courtesy of flashoffroad.com http://flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/...akeRotors.html
 
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Old Jul 7, 2009 | 06:25 AM
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G35 sedan w/ too much money in mods
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Great post. Thanks!!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2009 | 01:43 AM
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^ lol wooh
 
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