steering wheel is shaking?? *another problem*
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From: Boston
Start with the easy stuff
get a tire pressure guage and check your tires. Make sure they are all 32psi.
Do you have a torque wrench? If so, retorque evern lug nut to 80 ft-lbs in a star pattern.
Inspect each wheel and see if any of the stick on weights fell off. If you still have vibration, rotate the front wheels to the back. It will move the vibration so you don't feel it in the wheel. If this works, rebalance the wheels.
If it doesnt work, it could still be a balance issue, but it could mean other probs as well
get a tire pressure guage and check your tires. Make sure they are all 32psi.
Do you have a torque wrench? If so, retorque evern lug nut to 80 ft-lbs in a star pattern.
Inspect each wheel and see if any of the stick on weights fell off. If you still have vibration, rotate the front wheels to the back. It will move the vibration so you don't feel it in the wheel. If this works, rebalance the wheels.
If it doesnt work, it could still be a balance issue, but it could mean other probs as well
Wow, warped already? That was fast.
Make sure when you get the new rotors you don't sit with your foot on the brake at stops. Shift into Park. Warped rotors occur when heat causes friction material to transfer unevenly from the pad to the disk. The rotor is most vulnerable when new before it's bedded in, so make sure when you come to a stop to lightly hold the brake and let the car roll forward slow, or shift to Park and take your foot off the brake
There is a bedding in procedure to follow
Make sure when you get the new rotors you don't sit with your foot on the brake at stops. Shift into Park. Warped rotors occur when heat causes friction material to transfer unevenly from the pad to the disk. The rotor is most vulnerable when new before it's bedded in, so make sure when you come to a stop to lightly hold the brake and let the car roll forward slow, or shift to Park and take your foot off the brake
There is a bedding in procedure to follow
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From: Boston
u really want me to put it in park everytime im at a stop light? when i come to a stop and slowly release pedal, but keep it on it and the car slowly moves forward i hear this sound like medal on medal grinding in a way. Also when i go over speed bumps applying the break faster than usually and if im coming to a sudden stop, i hear n the front like clicking something in the front bottom suspension maybe. Like all the gravity moving forward at sudden stops i hear like front clicking.
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FWIW, I had a lot of trouble with vibration in my G35 because I was dumb enough to keep bringing the car back to the same tire store and having them rebalanced. Finally went to a shop with a decent balancer and someone who knew how to use it and it was like night and day.
You can find shops with good Hunter balancers here:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/FindGSP9700.cfm
Hopefully if they pay money for a good machine they take the time to learn how to use it.
You can find shops with good Hunter balancers here:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/FindGSP9700.cfm
Hopefully if they pay money for a good machine they take the time to learn how to use it.
The park thing is only for a few days or 50 or so miles really...while the brakes are fresh. If you follow the bed-in procedure, you won't even have to do it. I can post it up later. I did the Park thing for a full week after doing my brakes. I can't stand brake pulsations...so i took every step i could to avoid it.
As for the other grinding noise, i can't really comment without seeing or hearing it. Which brakes were replace? All of them? Fronts only? How are the rears
As for the other grinding noise, i can't really comment without seeing or hearing it. Which brakes were replace? All of them? Fronts only? How are the rears
BTW, did you have this shaking/vibration problem before? OR did this all start at the same time you had the brakes done?
If they didn't do it before, and unless the shop threw your wheels off a cliff, or knocked some of the tire weights off, i find it hard to beleive they are out of balance.
If they didn't do it before, and unless the shop threw your wheels off a cliff, or knocked some of the tire weights off, i find it hard to beleive they are out of balance.
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From: Boston
BTW, did you have this shaking/vibration problem before? OR did this all start at the same time you had the brakes done?
If they didn't do it before, and unless the shop threw your wheels off a cliff, or knocked some of the tire weights off, i find it hard to beleive they are out of balance.
If they didn't do it before, and unless the shop threw your wheels off a cliff, or knocked some of the tire weights off, i find it hard to beleive they are out of balance.
For people that experience this problem, here are the potential causes:
1) Incorrect inflation
2) Bent rim
3) Radial ply seperation (rare)
4) Warped rotor, most likely caused by overtorquing the lug nuts (DO NOT use impacts to reinstall a wheel) or cheap rotors.
5) Odd tire wear
The fixes:
1) Inflate your tires
2) Fix/replace rim
3) Replace tire
4) Don't use impacts on wheels. Don't buy cheap rotors. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE.
5) Fix alignment
Things you don't cheap out on with a car:
1) Cheap rotors and pads. You get what you pay for and chances are you braking will be worse the stock. Expect front rotors to last only 25-35K miles on the 03/04 RWD and 04-06 X. Front pads will be shot at 20-25K.
2) Don't buy high mileage tires. They don't wear, handle like a wet pork chop, handle poorly, and ride poorly.
When it comes to tires and brakes, WEAR is a good thing. If you want strong performance from these components, expect them to wear fairly quickly. That's the trade off.
1) Incorrect inflation
2) Bent rim
3) Radial ply seperation (rare)
4) Warped rotor, most likely caused by overtorquing the lug nuts (DO NOT use impacts to reinstall a wheel) or cheap rotors.
5) Odd tire wear
The fixes:
1) Inflate your tires
2) Fix/replace rim
3) Replace tire
4) Don't use impacts on wheels. Don't buy cheap rotors. THERE IS A DIFFERENCE.
5) Fix alignment
Things you don't cheap out on with a car:
1) Cheap rotors and pads. You get what you pay for and chances are you braking will be worse the stock. Expect front rotors to last only 25-35K miles on the 03/04 RWD and 04-06 X. Front pads will be shot at 20-25K.
2) Don't buy high mileage tires. They don't wear, handle like a wet pork chop, handle poorly, and ride poorly.
When it comes to tires and brakes, WEAR is a good thing. If you want strong performance from these components, expect them to wear fairly quickly. That's the trade off.
See that contributes to the problem right there. Improper torque can warp rotors.
I always install wheels with a torque wrench. First to 50, then 65 and then 80 ft-lbs and then recheck after 50 miles.
I always install wheels with a torque wrench. First to 50, then 65 and then 80 ft-lbs and then recheck after 50 miles.
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From: Boston
so is everyone most likely getting warped rotors then by getting wheels put back on with impact? so using impact you have no idea what the torque lbs is
It's not the only reason, but it is one potential cause.
Most impact guns dont have a torque cutoff. They just stop when tight, so sometimes they are torqued to 150 ft-lbs+
If done unevenly, the heat of the rotor is not distributed evenly and can lead to warpage.
Not the sole reason rotors warp, but it's important enough that I carefully retorque my wheels each time they are off.
Most impact guns dont have a torque cutoff. They just stop when tight, so sometimes they are torqued to 150 ft-lbs+
If done unevenly, the heat of the rotor is not distributed evenly and can lead to warpage.
Not the sole reason rotors warp, but it's important enough that I carefully retorque my wheels each time they are off.
its simple to see what overtightening can do.
simply go around your house and look at stuff that screws in and imagine if you went with a screw driver and tightened it some more, things will start to flex and break. Like a dresser or light bulbs. Same idea can be used with impacting lug nuts. Most shops use a torque stick with impacts, they are designed to stop at one point, in most cases they aren't 100% dead on but it gets it in the area, if your wheel needs 78ft-lbs of torque and you use a 70ft-lb or a 80ft-lb stick and your off by 5-10lbs you still wont damage much but high impact guys like my IR 2135ti that has a torque rating of 600ft-lbs+ will smash that nut on full blast.
simply go around your house and look at stuff that screws in and imagine if you went with a screw driver and tightened it some more, things will start to flex and break. Like a dresser or light bulbs. Same idea can be used with impacting lug nuts. Most shops use a torque stick with impacts, they are designed to stop at one point, in most cases they aren't 100% dead on but it gets it in the area, if your wheel needs 78ft-lbs of torque and you use a 70ft-lb or a 80ft-lb stick and your off by 5-10lbs you still wont damage much but high impact guys like my IR 2135ti that has a torque rating of 600ft-lbs+ will smash that nut on full blast.
It's Lonely At The Bottom
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Las Vegas, NV
My steering wheel shakes / vibrates when driving 65mph +. However, no shaking occurs when braking. I assume my new new tires from discount tire (June '09) needs to be balanced?
