I am referencing chassis dyno... most of the dyno pulls I've done have been on dynapack - however, I've been on 2 different Dynojets (one of them 2 different times) - I dont remember what gear the dynojet runs were in (I’d have to look them up at home).

 

They're using brake dynos (ie Dynapacks). How do I know they're not varying the braking load? My experience is with Dynojets.

No, I haven't dynoed my G, but I've witnessed plenty of Zs and Gs on the dynos here in KC. I've seen runs from autos and MTs and 3rd gear, 4th gear, and 5th gear (not in the 5ats) runs. The numbers are always very consistent assuming the operator gives the motor a little time to cool.

 

....and WHP/WTQ bragging rights

 

I know of no reasonable true enthusiasts that uses dyno numbers as bragging rights.

Anyone with half a brain uses dyno only as a viable tuning method, for before and after, or to compare with other cars same day on same machine… all of which can be done with any dyno – however, repeatability/consistency and accuracy is better with dynapack.

 

why would this matter... you comment about a lot of things that you dont know.

 

Well this is getting off topic...On my computer I have 173 dyno runs from various cars that were mine ( The ones I've kept anyways as I'm sure I've done over 300 runs ) and almost 100 more from cars that aren't mine but I decided to keep the graphs. Believe me when I tell you that a properly calibrated dyno could care less if you do the run in 2nd gear,3rd gear or in 6th gear for that matter, the results should be nearly identical if nothing else changes ( which is the hard part ).

 

same dyno - same day - nothing changed - no recalibration (4 year old dynos)

examples could be given all day.

 

Dynapacks are definetely the best way to tune your car. I've never priced them out, but I've been told by tuners they are the most expensive as well.

 

Again, I'm not saying it's not possible...I'm saying that it isn't directly related to the gear ratio. I would love to see a temp probe in the cylinder head to see how high temps went from one run to the other...I would bet money that the 4th gear one had higher temps. On my cars I always have big *** fans cooling it ( and I mean HUGE fans + more than one of them ) and I always do cool downs between runs. I may loose a few hp ( maybe 5-6 ) but I also may loose that same amount of power from one run to the other.

Either way, this is off topic guys...

 

Church Automotive does very controlled dyno testing... they are who several mod developers use for testing... the dyno graphs you saw above where taken after plenty of cool down... the only difference was ambient temps and in So Cal they don’t vary enough within the day to make that big of a difference (as shown in the chart)...

Say what you want - but in this case you are wrong. Any tuner/tester that knows anything about dynapack is going to tell you to dyno in 3rd. And that there is a difference.

The end.

 

okay

 

so basically i should have 50+ hp more on every one of my drag bikes because of the lightened cranks, wheels, etc.....

you need to come tell the dyno that we tune on that then because driveline weight changes show ZERO on the power output. Acceleration is a different story, but net hp there is no change.

 

Your motorcycles must defy the laws of physics Surely you've heard of a thing call parasitic loss. Things like drive axles, driveshafts, transmissions, wheels, tires, accessories, differentials, blah, blah, blah. Put a motor on the dyno and it's going to make 12% to 20% more power. According to you, this doesn't happen with your bikes. Probably the reason you're not seeing gains from these lightened components on the dyno with your motorcycle is because:

1) Your motorcycle engine is much smaller than that of a car. Tiny gains will be hard to see on the dyno and everything is relative to the size of the motor being dynoed. Gaining 5whp on a motorcycle engine is huge when the bike only weighs 380lbs. Gaining 5whp on a car engine is really nothing when the car weighs 3,400lbs. See what I'm getting at here?

2) Lightened cranks are mounted directly to where the power is being made. There's minimal rotating diameter (a couple of inches). A lightened crank is usually not significantly lighter than the one it replaced. We're talking onces on a motorcycle engine. It may be a different story when you're talking about about a cast iron crank in 400+ cube motor compared to a much lighter forged piece.

3) What's your basis for the wheels? Surely you're first dyno wasn't with OEM tires and wheels. I'd $20 you're talking about dynos between light and lighter racing wheels. Again, we're talking about cars, not motorcycles. Dyno a G with a superlight 35lb tire/wheel combo vs one with an OEM 50 to 58lbs tire/wheel combo and you'll most definitely see a difference in power on the dyno. Most likely close to 10whp.

 

How can sit there and be so definitive about this when you don't even own a Dynapack

 

#1 I'm not defensive

#2 I've dyno'd on dynapacks at least 100 times - why would I need to own one