E Fan conversion
If you apply that some logic, I don't think you can talk about ANY mods that you have not done yourself.
The problem is he doesn’t understand the difference between using something and owning something. Experience is experience - and reading it on the internet does not constitute "Experience"... but it’s all he's got, so
Anyway, I understand where you are going with it and I agree with you. But he never will.
Exactly. Experience. That's what I have with these VQ motors (VQ30 and VQ35) as well LT1s, Ford Mod motors, 5.0s, LS series, and a handful of other motors. You've just proven my point. A point I've been making to you for 3 years now. Maybe now you get it.
BTW - many of us have had many other cars... so what
But did you wrench on them? race them? Dyno them? Spend way too much of you life researching and learning stuff?
Combustion engines all operate the same way. Some are a little more fancy than others and some make better gains than others for various reasons. But the overall principles are the same. I don't need to buy a Tornado intake to know it's a POS and I don't need to dyno my MD spacer to know that it makes around 8whp/8wtq. Most every mod for these cars has been dynoed multiple times and same goes for the combinations of modifications tested on the dyno. You can get a pretty solid idea of what a VQ35 is going to put down with X + Y + Z mods.
Combustion engines all operate the same way. Some are a little more fancy than others and some make better gains than others for various reasons. But the overall principles are the same. I don't need to buy a Tornado intake to know it's a POS and I don't need to dyno my MD spacer to know that it makes around 8whp/8wtq. Most every mod for these cars has been dynoed multiple times and same goes for the combinations of modifications tested on the dyno. You can get a pretty solid idea of what a VQ35 is going to put down with X + Y + Z mods.
^^^ keep telling yourself that Dave... whatever you need to do to justify yourself - fine with me (even though it’s usually hogwash).
Back to the point of the Dyno (since these always get sooooo OT)... You don’t need to own a Dynopack to have experience having dyno'd on one.
That’s the point. So I have no idea how your comment about not owning one was relevant to anything.
BTW- we've already gone over the "wrenched on cars" routine... you act like you're the only one that has turned a wrench
Big deal, you've unbolted suspension and slapped on some rotors and calipers, r/r intakes & such - so what? That doesn’t take any amount of technical ability -and yes, many of us have done the same (on many cars).
And about dynoing... you havent even dynod your G.
Back to the point of the Dyno (since these always get sooooo OT)... You don’t need to own a Dynopack to have experience having dyno'd on one.
That’s the point. So I have no idea how your comment about not owning one was relevant to anything.
BTW- we've already gone over the "wrenched on cars" routine... you act like you're the only one that has turned a wrench
Big deal, you've unbolted suspension and slapped on some rotors and calipers, r/r intakes & such - so what? That doesn’t take any amount of technical ability -and yes, many of us have done the same (on many cars).And about dynoing... you havent even dynod your G.
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 503
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Your motorcycles must defy the laws of physics 
Surely you've heard of a thing call parasitic loss. Things like drive axles, driveshafts, transmissions, wheels, tires, accessories, differentials, blah, blah, blah. Put a motor on the dyno and it's going to make 12% to 20% more power. According to you, this doesn't happen with your bikes. Probably the reason you're not seeing gains from these lightened components on the dyno with your motorcycle is because:
1) Your motorcycle engine is much smaller than that of a car. Tiny gains will be hard to see on the dyno and everything is relative to the size of the motor being dynoed. Gaining 5whp on a motorcycle engine is huge when the bike only weighs 380lbs. Gaining 5whp on a car engine is really nothing when the car weighs 3,400lbs. See what I'm getting at here?
the power is low-mid 200 hp on these bikes so basically what a stock g35 at puts at the wheels.
2) Lightened cranks are mounted directly to where the power is being made. There's minimal rotating diameter (a couple of inches). A lightened crank is usually not significantly lighter than the one it replaced. We're talking onces on a motorcycle engine. It may be a different story when you're talking about about a cast iron crank in 400+ cube motor compared to a much lighter forged piece.
5lbs off the driveline is 5lbs off the driveline.
3) What's your basis for the wheels? Surely you're first dyno wasn't with OEM tires and wheels. I'd $20 you're talking about dynos between light and lighter racing wheels. Again, we're talking about cars, not motorcycles. Dyno a G with a superlight 35lb tire/wheel combo vs one with an OEM 50 to 58lbs tire/wheel combo and you'll most definitely see a difference in power on the dyno. Most likely close to 10whp.
Surely you've heard of a thing call parasitic loss. Things like drive axles, driveshafts, transmissions, wheels, tires, accessories, differentials, blah, blah, blah. Put a motor on the dyno and it's going to make 12% to 20% more power. According to you, this doesn't happen with your bikes. Probably the reason you're not seeing gains from these lightened components on the dyno with your motorcycle is because: 1) Your motorcycle engine is much smaller than that of a car. Tiny gains will be hard to see on the dyno and everything is relative to the size of the motor being dynoed. Gaining 5whp on a motorcycle engine is huge when the bike only weighs 380lbs. Gaining 5whp on a car engine is really nothing when the car weighs 3,400lbs. See what I'm getting at here?
the power is low-mid 200 hp on these bikes so basically what a stock g35 at puts at the wheels.
2) Lightened cranks are mounted directly to where the power is being made. There's minimal rotating diameter (a couple of inches). A lightened crank is usually not significantly lighter than the one it replaced. We're talking onces on a motorcycle engine. It may be a different story when you're talking about about a cast iron crank in 400+ cube motor compared to a much lighter forged piece.
5lbs off the driveline is 5lbs off the driveline.
3) What's your basis for the wheels? Surely you're first dyno wasn't with OEM tires and wheels. I'd $20 you're talking about dynos between light and lighter racing wheels. Again, we're talking about cars, not motorcycles. Dyno a G with a superlight 35lb tire/wheel combo vs one with an OEM 50 to 58lbs tire/wheel combo and you'll most definitely see a difference in power on the dyno. Most likely close to 10whp.
I did some maintenance work on a friend's (non-car guy) 04 G35 sedan 5AT today and learned that 04 5AT sedans (not 04.5s) have mechanical fans as well. Her G has built one month before the 04.5s started production.
)
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: So. CaLi
OT question (but mentioned in your post): how do you like the Stillen radiator? I understand there was fitment issues with your configuration, but from what you can tell would it fit the OEM E-Fans without issue?... also, there was a previous reviewer that had leak... any issues with yours? Is the cooling better?
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Joined: May 2020
Posts: 1
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G35 sedan early 2003
Early 2003 g35 sedan
I need to know the process to swap from fan clutch to electric fans. What all do I need and what do I need to do.
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G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
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Oct 1, 2015 09:02 AM
