No need to remove the 14mm bolts. Just take the two big caliper bolts off and remove the caliper, make sure to rest it against something and DO NOT let it hang from the break line. There after, bang out your rotor and replace. It's very easy, I did it last weekend actually.

 

i had the same problem on my car and yes its the rotors for sure. they need to be resurfaced. you can do that at autozone, napa, o'rielys auto stores they can turn them for 10 bucks each if you can take them off and bring them in. shops will charge you about 20 a piece if you bring them in. one thing thugh, if the rotors are worn out and become to thin then they will not be able to resurface them, you will need new rotors and they are not that expensive.

 

As i said...just the two caliper bolts this guy knows wat he's talking about. I just did mine not to long ago to.

 

You can't get the rotor off without taking the caliper BRACKET off. Physically impossible to remove the rotor without that out of the way.

 

The two bolts hold the caliper to the spindle are the bracket bolts. They remove the ENTIRE caliper assembly.

 

or if your unlucky like me my problem was a seized caliper i only felt the pulsating at high speeds lucky for me i got the caliper and labor for only 150

 

Dealer said the rear pads are more likely to wear faster than the fronts....that didn't make intuitive sense to me as it seems like most of the brake force falls on the front brakes. I don't want to buy the front rotors and then realize the rear ones were the ones that were bad.

 

Maybe its just your rear rotors that are warped... If I'm not mistaken, cars usually use the front breaks most of the time and use all four for harder or faster stops.

 

I've never understood it, but my car wears rear brakes faster than the front - I have 100k on the car so this is not just a single instance. This surprises me especially given the front/back weight distribution on this car. The rear pads are smaller of course, and I don't know if the amount of pressure applied from the piston is equal in the front and rear - that could be involved too.

You will get some pulsation if the rear pads are low, but you usually feel that at your feet and not at the steering wheel. If you feel the pulsing at the wheel, then it could be your front pads are shot.

Past that, tires needing balance and rotors needing to be turned would be the reasons for this.

 

The proportioning allows for the rears to begin binding slightly before the fronts do to minimize nose dive. Research that on here; you'll find the same answer. Rears do wear faster than fronts on this car.

 

Thanks, makes sense.

 

sorry to bring up an old thread, but I've had a similar issue, and was wondering if anyone knew what could be going on. 04 6mt with the brembo setup.
I've already replaced my rotors and pads, and I still have the pulsating brake action when driving. Just got new tires as well, mount/balance/alignment, all that good stuff. I did notice that it does NOT happen when the car is cold, but once it's warmed up, it basically happens at all speeds.
(The faster I go, the faster the brakes pulsate, almost a vibrating sensation. but going 0-20mph, the brakes pulsates something closer to .5-1 second on/off).

I haven't noticed any performance drops, but the ride quality is definitely decreased. any clues?

 

^ it could also be your ABS sensor(s). the stealership can hook up a CONSULT-II to your car to see what's happening with the sensors when the pulsating occurs.

 

I'll def take it to them....AFTER I've made sure that's what it is lol. They'll probably tell me it's my bose headunit that's causing the problems, and offer to fix that, after they rotate my staggered tires.

I was thinking I could try this out in the meantime: Drive to gain some momentum, turn off the car, then see if the pulsating still happens while braking. The ABS should not be on, right?

 

so it seems that i still have the pulsating brakes when the car is turned off while braking...