That's what I'm thinking too.

Any ideas on running 2 Ohm components and a 4 Ohm sub on a single amp? Would that cause any problems?

 

If it's just the front components, then you can get a 4 channel amp and run them to channel 1 and 2 (as long as you're using a passive crossover, which comes with the components). If you're doing some external processing then you'd need all 4 channels for the mids and tweeters.

Or if you're going to run rear speakers on an amp (I personally don't think rears are necessary), then you can get a 5 channel amp. Run all speakers to channels 1-4 and 5th for the sub (or 6 channel if you find one and bridge channels 5 and 6). Just make sure that when you bridge channels 3 and 4 or 5 and 6 (with 6 channel amp) that it has a mono output, not stereo.

 

It would be a five channel amp running components in the front, coaxials in the rear and a free-air replacement sub in the stock location. This seems to be the cheapest solution that will upgrade all of the speakers while keeping the head unit stock. My only concern is whether or not to match the front and rear speakers' impedence (2 ohms if I go with Infinity) to the sub's (4 ohms for the Kicker).

Or I could just keep everything 4 ohm and go with Polks for the front and rear. I haven't been able to find whether or not the tweeter will fit in the stock location though. I like to keep everything looking stock so that's a must for me.

 

If you're running an aftermarket amp, it won't matter. The amp puts out power at 2 ohms and 4 ohms. You don't have to match it to the sub. The only difference is that the impedence (ohms) allows for different power output and/our wiring compatibility with the amp (dual voice coil subs).

If you're using the passive crossover that comes with the components, those wire to the amp, but the crossover is connected to the factory wiring. One for front left, one for front right, so you don't need to worry about matching anything up, your amp will do that.

I would say look into another set of components rather than sticking with the Infinity because there are a ton of other speakers available. I've mentioned the Phoenix Gold RSD's before to a few people, just throwing it out there, but they have great midbass. The tweeters are decent. Price is pretty cheap. Around 60-70 bucks shipped. Dunno how the coaxials are but I know those are 40 bucks shipped for the pair over at onlinecarstereo.com (or maybe it was sonicelectronix.com). The model number for the components is RSd 65cs. Thought I'd throw it in there in case you're looking to save some cash.

 

Interesting, thanks. Do you happen to know if those tweeters fit in the stock location?

I'm really just in the research stage right now so I don't have my mind set on anything. The Infinitys were really just an option because I could avoid an aftermarket amp and the tweeters fit. If I add an amp though I have plenty of options.

 

Yep, most definitely if you add an amp you expand your options. If you want to just add a sub, then you can most certainly replace the factory mids and tweeters with the Infinity's.

As for the RSD's tweeters, I'm not sure how they would fit into the factory location.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll have to keep doing research to see which tweeters fit.

 

No prob. Anytime!

 

I just got done.. ok am still in the process, but of redoing the audio and keeping the bose hu. I have to say, with a good amp wired in place of that garbage bose one, the bose factory speakers really come alive.. like no need for that crappy sub at all.. As long as your careful, those bose spks can really sound good, not amazing.. there is no real crossover or anything, but still...

I have only gotten so far as to install the amp, replace the components in the front doors (front stage only ftw) with my trusty cdt cl-61's and place foam and felt in strategic locations on the inner door panel... The metal door panel underneath is so rigid that these components sound alot more like a full system with a sub.. it is ridiculous! And this is with the crossover set around 60 hz or so..

 

As far as what tweeters would fit, the factory ones are like 3/4" I think, mine with the casing are like 1.5, but there is enough room where the factory tweet goes that once you remove it, you can carefully position in the new ones and hold them in place with the original screws...

 

Sweet. I think most aftermarket tweeters are 1", but not sure how deep they are. I'm mostly worried about that. I've seen that the Infinity Kappa 60.7cs tweeters dropped right in, but the newer 60.9cs didn't because they were too thick.

What brand components did you use, how many watts is your amp putting out, and did you just unhook the factory sub?

 

the components are cdt cl-61's. My amp is able to put out 250 watts/channel rms to them.. way more than enough..lol.

I used a pac soem-4 and wired it to the blue factory harness that usually plugs into the oem amp. The wires that run from the hu (to the amp) and then to the speakers are all on that same plug... since the amp is unplugged, the factory sub isn't doing anything..