its not really easy on any car, but we have 4 cams and a tight engine bay. my bro put a cam in his LS1 gto, that was pretty hard since the cam is on the bottom of the engine so he had to take a lot of stuff off to get to it, its not really that hard on 4 cyl cars but still not something a novice should attempt. aggressive cams will give you a loopy idle, but its not gonna sound like a muscle car or anything.

sounds like this

 

I'm sure ocg will chime in with his thoughts?

 

Um you'd had better have a WAY better reason than just sound to spend over $2000 putting cams in than just sound

 

lol thats why no one has cams in their G

 

they aren't $2000
http://www.intensepower.com/sojwtca35.html

 

^^ I think hes talking cams + install, I was quoted $1100 for cams + 18\hr install.

 

I would maybe consider it in the future, i was just wondering why no one here has them when they sound cool for the most part and offer some decent gains.

 

Because cams are usually dependent on the combo and need to match the other mods. Cams alone are a waste of money and a lot of guys take flak on the mustang boards for posting about what cam to get for sound only. Installing a cam for sound defeats the entire purpose of the cam.

Why don't yup see more cam swaps? Because most guys here are into bolt on performance. A blower to me is also a bolt on. There aren't that many guy here pulling their engines, and rebuilding them with serious parts, with some head work topped off with a matching set of cams. Such a build is expensive and requires some serious know how.

Installing cams for sound is not very cost effective and most people chose super aggressive cams for heavy chop and then realize they don't really work that well with the combo.

I've done cam swaps on the 4.6 dohc ford which is the same design as the vq. Not the easiest engine to work on. I prefer the pushrods engines. 1 cam and you can get a custom grind matched to your combo for 400. ( or an off the shelf grind for 175)

 

^+1 on everything he said.

If I were to work on my engine it would go something like this:

Engine:
Weisco Pistons
Eagle rods
ACL Thrust Washers/ACL Rod Race Bearings/ACL Main Race Bearing Set (Calico Coated)
ARP L19 Head Studs and ARP Main Studs
GTR Skyline Factory Head Gaskets or HR Head Gaskets
5 Angle Valve Job, Rotating Assembly Balanced,etc..

Intake to Exhaust:
SG Carbotron Plenum (Upper)
Motordyne Plenum Spacer
Motordyne MREV 2
Nismo R-Tune Cams
SG Long Tube Headers
Y-Pipe (2.5" to 3")
Agency Power Exhaust (3")

Drivetrain
4.083 Final Drive

 

sounds like some serious coin.

 

I just did cams and headers on an R/T 300.

What a ****ty job, I don't know the engine bay too well in our cars but I have the worst feeling you pull the engine to do it.

If you're going to get them, get them and install them when you install headers, then at least the engine is out and doesn't make it waster time. That's a lotta work for 25hp though...

 

you really have to pull the motor to do it?

 

I'm not positive you HAVE to, but they are tight engine bays and you're feeding a 2 foot long stick into it, I doubt it would be worth it to leave the engine in.

 

yeah true

 

I could be wrong though they might be an easier install then I think.

The engine bay on 300 was pretty big so it wasn't too bad. That's the first time I've every installed cams though.