throttle body replaced, but SES on again - p0507
#16
all right - i finally think i got a good relearn in. we'll see if the SES light comes back, but initial road test felt like the car was driving differently, i.e. idle was dropping steadily instead of dropping, then bouncing up when transmission shifted while i was coasting to a stoplight or something like that.
to recap - i did the ECU clear first (was not doing this before) - did the accelerator pedal relearn, then throttle valve relearn. the one thing i did different was waiting EXACTLY one second on the throttle valve relearn. then i did the idle relearn as well. what i did differently was cranking the engine after the relearn instead of going to the off position, then cranking. then turned the car off once i saw the idle drop in the 600 range...then 10 seconds later i cranked it back on.
i still feel like my idle is a little fast like around 900 (one line below 1k) in P and 700 (2.5 lines below 1k) when in D, but like i said before - it isn't as jumpy so something is definitely different. no SES light and i've driven it for about 20 miles post relearn. i'll update if it does.
to recap - i did the ECU clear first (was not doing this before) - did the accelerator pedal relearn, then throttle valve relearn. the one thing i did different was waiting EXACTLY one second on the throttle valve relearn. then i did the idle relearn as well. what i did differently was cranking the engine after the relearn instead of going to the off position, then cranking. then turned the car off once i saw the idle drop in the 600 range...then 10 seconds later i cranked it back on.
i still feel like my idle is a little fast like around 900 (one line below 1k) in P and 700 (2.5 lines below 1k) when in D, but like i said before - it isn't as jumpy so something is definitely different. no SES light and i've driven it for about 20 miles post relearn. i'll update if it does.
#17
More detail...
You have the exact problem I had. 900 in P/N and 700 in D is still too high. Almost exactly what I was getting. Plus the revving during down-shifting and slow/weak acceleration response compared with normal.
Follow This:
1.) Basic ECU Reset
Operations Procedures:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. This interval must be 5 seconds before step 3 begins.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
2.)Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds. at least= more time is ok, less than is not
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
3.)Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. You might not hear this but if you listen carefully in a quiet environment, you will
4.) Idle Air Volume Learning
1. Perform EC-91, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-91, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Skip this if the engine is already warm as you might throw the code in idle.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds. This interval must be 5 seconds before step 8 begins.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
9a. Perform step 10. within the above 3 seconds. The photo below shows the car in run after the 3 seconds. But, this never worked for me.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
13. Turn off the car and restart within/ before 10 seconds. (Better = 5 seconds) Now it should work. I think you have everything up til here, so try this last step.
You can find most of this information in the altima thread posted earlier (#6). Make sure to read the entire thread.
Follow This:
1.) Basic ECU Reset
Operations Procedures:
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” (NOT start) and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. This interval must be 5 seconds before step 3 begins.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 seconds.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Remember, timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
2.)Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds. at least= more time is ok, less than is not
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
3.)Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. You might not hear this but if you listen carefully in a quiet environment, you will
4.) Idle Air Volume Learning
1. Perform EC-91, "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" .
2. Perform EC-91, "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature. Skip this if the engine is already warm as you might throw the code in idle.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds.
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds. This interval must be 5 seconds before step 8 begins.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops
blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
9a. Perform step 10. within the above 3 seconds. The photo below shows the car in run after the 3 seconds. But, this never worked for me.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the
specifications.
13. Turn off the car and restart within/ before 10 seconds. (Better = 5 seconds) Now it should work. I think you have everything up til here, so try this last step.
You can find most of this information in the altima thread posted earlier (#6). Make sure to read the entire thread.
The following users liked this post:
uclalaker2009 (02-27-2012)
#18
all right - i finally think i got a good relearn in. we'll see if the SES light comes back, but initial road test felt like the car was driving differently, i.e. idle was dropping steadily instead of dropping, then bouncing up when transmission shifted while i was coasting to a stoplight or something like that.
Anyone has this problem? Im thinking I should just get a new throttle body
#19
all right - i finally think i got a good relearn in. we'll see if the SES light comes back, but initial road test felt like the car was driving differently, i.e. idle was dropping steadily instead of dropping, then bouncing up when transmission shifted while i was coasting to a stoplight or something like that.
to recap - i did the ECU clear first (was not doing this before) - did the accelerator pedal relearn, then throttle valve relearn. the one thing i did different was waiting EXACTLY one second on the throttle valve relearn. then i did the idle relearn as well. what i did differently was cranking the engine after the relearn instead of going to the off position, then cranking. then turned the car off once i saw the idle drop in the 600 range...then 10 seconds later i cranked it back on.
i still feel like my idle is a little fast like around 900 (one line below 1k) in P and 700 (2.5 lines below 1k) when in D, but like i said before - it isn't as jumpy so something is definitely different. no SES light and i've driven it for about 20 miles post relearn. i'll update if it does.
to recap - i did the ECU clear first (was not doing this before) - did the accelerator pedal relearn, then throttle valve relearn. the one thing i did different was waiting EXACTLY one second on the throttle valve relearn. then i did the idle relearn as well. what i did differently was cranking the engine after the relearn instead of going to the off position, then cranking. then turned the car off once i saw the idle drop in the 600 range...then 10 seconds later i cranked it back on.
i still feel like my idle is a little fast like around 900 (one line below 1k) in P and 700 (2.5 lines below 1k) when in D, but like i said before - it isn't as jumpy so something is definitely different. no SES light and i've driven it for about 20 miles post relearn. i'll update if it does.
well...i knew it was too good to be true - but here's what i saw yesterday afternoon - as soon as i turned my AC on - the SES came on so i think i was just on the cusp of being OK and then the extra revving need to power the AC made it too high...
so anyway...back to sqaure one... it must be the way i'm doing the relearn..i'll keep trying. thanks for the continued help. really appreciate the responses.
#21
well...i knew it was too good to be true - but here's what i saw yesterday afternoon - as soon as i turned my AC on - the SES came on so i think i was just on the cusp of being OK and then the extra revving need to power the AC made it too high...
so anyway...back to sqaure one... it must be the way i'm doing the relearn..i'll keep trying. thanks for the continued help. really appreciate the responses.
so anyway...back to sqaure one... it must be the way i'm doing the relearn..i'll keep trying. thanks for the continued help. really appreciate the responses.
I have the same issue. Once I turn on the AC, I get my SES light again! This is driving me crazy!!
Does anyone know any other step to keep this from coming on?
Thanks!
#22
well - after 6 months of fighting with the issue - the only smart decision left to do was the bite the bullet and let the nissan dealer set the idle. it cost me $108 but getting my car back to normal was worth double. instantly got me 3 MPG more as well so i'm saving about 15% on gas now. not sure what i was doing wrong with the relearn but it's just wasn't worth the trouble anymore. so my advice is if you're still fighting with throttle body issues - stop and just get your idle relearned.
#23
#24
G'ed - it's a very well known issue with these TBs...the dealer will more than happily taken your money for about 10 minutes of labor. Only they have the $5k Consult device that can do the relearn. Essentially, they'll reprogram the ECU to set your idle speed at what it should be. Tell the dealer that is all you want to get done. No other work is needed. Just make sure P0507 is the only code that is being thrown. If you're periodically getting SES/VDC off/SLIP lights then a simple reprogram won't help you (in my estimate). You'll likely replace the TB - which the dealer will charge you $600. You can do it yourself for much less. My idle was consistently hovering around 1K in P/N and 900 in D/R. This happened after I replaced a defective TB.
My 2 cents is to take note of your idle now, so you know what to look for if you ever have to do a relearn. Had I known my idle speed should be about 400-500 RPM in P warmed up, I would have taken the car to a dealership long ago because I could never get that doing a relearn in the many times I tried.
Sorry - more info than anyone wanted, but I've learned my lesson on spending time/effort/$ + sacrificing normal ride vs. spending $$$ for the G35. If you can't fix it yourself quickly/cheaply then don't let it linger and put up with G that isn't operating optimally.
My 2 cents is to take note of your idle now, so you know what to look for if you ever have to do a relearn. Had I known my idle speed should be about 400-500 RPM in P warmed up, I would have taken the car to a dealership long ago because I could never get that doing a relearn in the many times I tried.
Sorry - more info than anyone wanted, but I've learned my lesson on spending time/effort/$ + sacrificing normal ride vs. spending $$$ for the G35. If you can't fix it yourself quickly/cheaply then don't let it linger and put up with G that isn't operating optimally.
#25
^thank you so much for these useful info!! im not sure if p0507 is the code because when my local mechanic plugged in his device into my car, it read "idle RPM is higher than expected," which is similar to your situation. i will probably take it into the dealer sometime this week. should i go to infiniti? or nissan?
#29
RPM Bounce
My G is doing the same thing. After a weeklong vacation, I came back and started my car only to find the idle high in the 900 region. SES light came on and indicated the p0507 code. Cleared the code with my OBDII reader, only for it to come back a week later. Does anyone with a 6MT get the rev needle bounce when they coast to a stop? RPM drops to 1k, then slightly bounces back up to 1200-1500 rpm before finally settling down to the sub-1k mark?
#30