I go atleast 7K every oil change, have been for 3 years

my pistols are fine

 

lol i meant piston. got a check engine light.. i don't remember the code i got out of it but it was related to solenoid piston misfiring...

 

i didnt change my oil for 9k miles with fully synthetic amsoil and my car would stall and sometimes refuse to start, i went and did an oil change and the oil was pitch black,
now i do it every 3.5k miles its just not worth it i love my car to much to put her in pain

 

Oil goes black a lot sooner than that, doesn't mean it's not doing its job. And I presume you changed the filter at about the halfway point. You did, didn't you? Didn't you??

 

Prob should have listed these in the beginning.


Engine: 5 quarts 5W-30

Trans Drain/Fill: 4 quarts exactly for Nissan Matic-S (but i keep 5 on hand just in case). I stuck with Matic S because of nissans requirements of using only it. Don't feel like taking a chance with another fluid right now.

Transfer Case: 2 quarts of Matic-D. Will take about 1.5 to actually fill. I used Mobil 1 syn ATF as matic D isn't anything special....it's just regular ATF and the Mobil 1 meets the specs of it.

Differentials:
Front = < 1 quart Mobil 1 75w-90
Rear = ~ 1.5 quart Mobil 1 75w-90

So 3 quarts should do it.

Power Steering drain/Flush.
1 quart Mobil 1 ATF...enough for 4 drain and fills...plus whatever was left over from the transfer case. I still have enough for two more drain/fills..which i'll do this weekend.


Front and rear diffs are easy as pie. Just make sure you have a 10mm HEX socket head first. You'll need them for the drain plugs. Some recommend replacing the plug washers, but i've reused them twice already with no issues...same with the oil and trans pan plugs. Still on the original washers. You just need to pick up one of those pumps that screws on to the top of the bottle and makes filling easy.

Transfer case is located on the passenger side of the car, right next to the flex coupling on the Y-pipe. It's tiny as hell, and looks kinda like an alternator. The drail plug is a 1/2" drive rachet head, and is located facing the passenger side near the flex coupling. The fill port is on the side facing the rear of the car, and requires a 10mm Hex. Highly recommend making sure you remove the fill ports BEFORE removing the drain plugs.

I recommend jackstands as well. Sears will sell you two stands for under $20. I think they have a kit with the jack for not much more either. Reason being you can get the whole car level when you fill the fluids. Having the car on somewhat of an angle might throw the fill levels off a tad

 

That's what I'm using...Castrol GTX.

Just cuz it's not synthetic doesn't mean it's crap oil. I tend to do my changes around 4000 miles. I do a ton of highway driving, so it's about every 6 weeks that I do an oil change.

I have nothing against synthetics. They are good fluids. Just in this case, i prefer conventional.

I've torn down an engine that i ran GTX on for 10+ years and almost 100K miles and the cylinders still had the factory crosshatching, and very little wear on the engine. In fact, i just left the bottom end pretty much as is and the engine is still going.

This isn't 1955. Modern engines can go beyond the 3000 mile mark with conventionals or synthetics. But i'd rather overmaintain...then undermaintain. An extra $200 or so a year to keep clean fluids in the vehicle is worth it if it prevents a bigger issue down the road.

Same with all the other fluids. This is my 2nd time though the car...with 65K on the clock. I bet there are some guys with near 100K that haven't touched anything. I'm already thinking about buying a set of plugs and changing them before I hit 70K when i pull the COP's to see if my valve covers are leaking. I figure if they are dry..and i'm there...might as well.

 

you most likely mean CYLINDER misfire, about the only thing that sounds like solenoid that has to do with a piston, and that sir has NOTHING to do with the oil you use, it only has to do with fuel/air/spark.


whoever said not using synthetic oil is stupid, is most likely misinformed by a STUPID person or likes to watch those oil commercials.

I did a UoA via blackstones lab on my 5w-30 GTX sample at 4600 miles and everything was A-OK by their standards. Even recommended me to push it to 6k. But the VQ35 has been known to be tough on oil, so i won't push it.

Like mustang, i have NOTHING against synethic oils. I love them and run them in my driveline but i just like GTX as well.


Hey mustang... that mobil 75w90, did you get the " LS" bottle for limited slip for our open diffs? I found that out the other day , shouldn't make a difference but still. I've found local vendor who stocks amsoil 75w90 for less then shelf price of mobil1 75w90.

 

Yup, got the "ls"...I think it's the only formulation they offer in that weight range. You can use it in an open differential though.


I can't find anyone that stocks amsoil near me. No idea why. Until I do...it's mobil 1 for me when I can




And damn...spark plugs are $12 each? Maybe I'll wait a little while longer

 

Mustang,
You can find the plugs a lot cheaper. Here's a link to the NGK iridium plugs a lot of us, including me, use and they're less than $7 each. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NGK-Q...s#ht_500wt_956

I've seen them even cheaper than this but can't seem to find the site ATM.

 

^^ The plugs are rated at 105K. I mean I like to over maintain too but isn't that a bit much? lol

I'm getting close to 30K so I'll have to do some of this stuff. What's the life of these liquids? I never seem to hit the mileage requirements since I don't drive a ton so I need to change them at different intervals.

 

They do make the normal version and the LS bottle.



Someone asked me the other day and i still had 1/2 bottle left and i looked and saw the LS, i drove on it for 15k already.




plugs are "rated" at 105k. plugs being so easy to do on this car, i would do them around 50k or so. Fluid wise recommend is 30k, dont know how long but i assume every 2 years just like all other fluids. It never hurts to change out driveline fluid.

 

Wow...3.5 hours is very fast. It would of taken me at least twice the time. Speaking of that, the only thing I haven't done from your list is power steering fluid. Will need to get my turkey baster soon. Also, belts are still original.

 

Even thought platinum plugs are supposedly good for 100k, I never felt it was that good to go that long. I've dome some plug changes on cars at 90-100k and always felt they were a little on the worn side. That's why I prefer to do them a little sooner than 100k. I'll prob get to mine around 75-80k

 

Really? I think I could do it in two next time. I thought 3.5 was too long.



Seriously, I'm pretty good at working on cars, so I can do stuff quick. All the tools are laid out and while engine oil is draining, I am filling the rear differential, or changing the air filter. Wasn't my first time doing it, so I already knew what wrench I needed and how to pump the fluid in, etc.

 

I thought the LSD's in our cars are a sealed Viscous LSD, regardless of the fluid, it wont affect the LSD since its sealed?