Did you buy his cables? If so, he'll send you instructions.

 

ahh ok, no i didnt but i really need to do my big 3. pulling to many amps and capacitors are useless lol simply there for looks. I need my engine to stop jerking when the bass hits -_- idk if anyone else can see it but i get super paranoid. and i figure it cant be too good for the car either...

 

The big three is different than a grounding kit, so you don't need grounding kit attachment points. Big three also uses heavier cables (grounding will use 8AWG or 4AWG, big three generally uses at least 2AWG and often 1/0AWG). There are many resources out there for a big three upgrade. Search G35's Audio section, or look here: http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~73496~PN~1

 

I was under the impression that the big three covered the tranny too because quicker shifting would also be a plus too... meh if thats the case, i guess I should do the tranny grounding along with the big three then huh? n thnx for the link!

 

The big three is about power for Audio, not for overall improvement in grounding. Alternator to Battery (+), Battery (-) to Chassis, and Engine to Chassis. The first is for power, the second two for grounding. They're 3 separate cables that don't touch each other (unless you ground the engine and battery to the same point).

A well-thought out grounding kit almost certainly has all of the cables connected in some way, and will include (more or less) the two grounding cables from a big three upgrade. I say more or less because they'll need to be beefier for the big three. If you're going to do both, then talk with Sean or someone else who makes kits and work with them to get you what you need. Buying two individual setups will certainly cost more.

 

kk, will do! one more question... whos sean?

 

Sean = SxExCx

https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-showcase.html

 

mmk, thnx again

 

I'll put my 2 cents in. I just used the same mounting point as the picture earlier. I didn't remove the bracket, but just used a nut, bolt and some small washers to install the wire on that little bracket. I only drove it for a few mins (I didn't reset the ECU), but it does seem like manual mode works a little faster when downshifting.

I thought about using the bolt that holds that bracket to the transmission housing. Any thoughts on that?

 

Oh, and here's my install picture.

This is on the driver's side of the transmission housing, between that and the driver's side cat (looking up from under the car...cat is on the top).

 

Clean and simple bro... just the way I like it...

I've got a set of black from Sean that I'm installing soon... (as soon as the temps stabilize in Central Ohio).. along with several other "under the car" upgrades/mods... Berk HFC's, Venair Coolant hoses, Samco SS hose clamps, new exhaust hangers, SS brake lines... so it's good to see you've scoped out an alternate mounting location for the tranny cable!!

 

what is the point of this upgrade?

 

Quicker, more responsive shifts

 

in a nutshell, it provides a cleaner grounding path/circuit for the ECU to engine, TCU to tranny and all associated sensors within those circuit loops for cleaner signals (less noise), so that translates to possibly better response in engine and transmission performance.. some feel it.. some don't... but from an engineering perspective. it makes sense.. especially in a harsh environment such as an engine bay! The cleaner the ground plane.. the cleaner the signal path!

 

Hey Trickstyle,
Did you ever solve this problem? I put on a 4 gauge 10 wire grounding kit from Gordee's grounding kits and I definitely have smoother shifting when driving with the stereo down. Although I still have the engine jerking pretty bad when the bass hits. I also upgraded the alternator power cable to a 4 gauge wire. Thanks for your help.