Explain. I was never told how to break them in, maybe that is my problem.

 

90k on my 05....still have the original pads and rotors.

 

60+k on original rotors. Pads have been replaced at least once. Rotors never re-surfaced. If I will be replacing the rotors, I will be going with the OEM ones.

 

Wow, that's alot of miles for stock rotos/pads.

 

I'm about to hit 66,000 miles, and still have the original rotors. Front brakes have been replaced once while I've owned the car (possibly before I bought it). Just inspected the pads/rotors the other day when I swapped winter/summer rubber, and the pads seem to have plenty of life in them. Rotors look fine too.

Are you using after market rotors? If so, I wonder if that could be your problem. There is definitely something wrong, because I drive pretty aggressively myself and don't have any of the issues you're describing. For reference sake, I've got an '06 G35x.

 

Read this: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

 

I have 102,000 miles on Nissan OEM front rotors and 75,000 miles on Hawk front pads.

And yes, my rotors are warped and need to be replaced. The front pads still look good.

I have a set of new ATE Premium One rotors and Hawk HPS pads that will be going on shortly.

 

Already found and bookmarked, thanks for finding it though.

 

it's not warped rotors you are experiencing, but uneven brake pad material transfer onto the rotors... i have the same problem before i got new rotors (centric blanks) and pads (nissan oem) @ 62k miles... now having the same problem @ 106k miles (did proper brake bed-in procedure too)...

 

So far, usually about 1 month or 5K until I can feel the deposits or warping that give the wheel the shakes.

Just put on centric premiums with centric premium pads about 3K ago and it looks like they are about to go the same way.

And yes, I break them in correctly and drive very gently.

 

Mileage is not the way to judge break or rotor wear.

the only way to know is to measure.

I drive 90% highway and there are very few cars in my area so I dont break to much

My factory rotors and pads were still good after 50K miles.

I only replaced them because I bought EBC rotors and pads because everyone said the pads wear out fast.

 

I just had my rear pads replaced again at 73K..I'm still on the factory rotors all around. I have resurfaced the front rotors once, and rear rotors twice now. Despite a little rust on the rotors, they are still in great shape.

 

Rear brake start work after breaking nearly blocking situation. 60% of brake force go front. That is sufficient for everyday driving. Or yoy should accelerate until 125mph and block your brakes some once a week.

 

My break-in is usually this.

Hit 25mph, gently slow down to ALMOST stopped (release the brake pedal before you stop so it doesn't make a hot spot on the pad). Do this 3-4 times.

Then get up to about 40 or so, same thing but brake at a rate that you would normally, again don't come to a complete stop. Repeat 3-4 times.

Now get up to 50-60 and come to a HARD STOP, almost as fast as the brakes will allow, again don't come to a complete stop. Repeat 3-4 times.

Now park the vehicle for 20 minutes to let the brakes cool. DONE!


If you have to come to a complete stop then use the parking brake at the last second rather than the brake pedal. The inboard parking brake won't create a hot spot on the rotor since it's INSIDE the rotor. It's much better to just plan an unused road nearby rather than having to do this in traffic although depending on your location it might not be much of an option, just do the best you can.

 

Engine braking is the key to pad/rotor preservation.

Yes??