I just got done with replacing my Front Passenger Hub and Bearing on my G35x. My car has been loud and I thought it was my tires but after a flat and installing new tires I realized I had a bigger problem. It was loud when driving straight and turning left but not when turning right. I found out that it was my passenger bearing that was bad. I bought a new Hub and new Bearing online for $250 shipped.

Bearing Part Number - 40202-AL800
Hub Part Number - 40202-24U00

My hands were too dirty to take pictures, sorry.

Tools I recomment you have...
22mm socket
32mm socket
17mm socket
19mm socket

Now the Steps to Victory!!!
1. Get the bearing and hub pressed to each other. Local shop did it for $20
2. Remove the wheel (if you cant do this, you shouldn't be doing this yourself)
3. Take the Cotter pin out of the center of the assembly and take the wheel bearing lock nut off. You will need to have someone push down on the brakes so you can take this off.
4. Remove the Caliper and brake pads. This can be done by removing the (2) 22mm bolts from behind the Roter. These can be hard to get off, use a good rachet. I broke my crappy one and had to borrow my neighbors. Hang this with a bungee or string.
5. Take the rotor off.
6. There is a sensor on the back side of the Steering Knuckle. I think this was a 14mm bolt, I needed to use a flat screwdriver to loosen this part. Hang this somewhere.
7. Now there are three components that attach to the steering knuckle that need to be detached so you can access the bearing bolts. To remove these, you will need a torque wrench, 19mm and 22mm. Jack up the front suspension member. The three bolts each have cotter pins, remove these and then remove the nuts. These three parts will come off and allow the steering knuckle to pull from the drive shaft.
8. Remove the four bolts from the back of the steering knuckle holding the bearing in place. These again will be tough to get off, you may need someone to hold the steering knuckle in place while you use all your weight to loosen these suckers.
9. Use an air hammer and hammer the bearing out from the back of the steering knuckle. Work your way around the bearing. This will take two people again, one person to hold the steering knuckle and the other to hammer out the bearing.
10. Clean out everything with a wire brush and degreaser.
11. Put the new bearing and hub assembly in with the splash guard behind it. Make sure you put this on right. I didn't and had to rig it so I didnt have to take everything off again.
12. Put everything back together how you took it apart and enjoy your quiet, smooth, non-stressful car!

I wish I would have taken pictures but didn't. If you have any questions, let me know, I know this probably isn't helpful without pictures but it better than nothing.

 

Nice. So you removed the entire spindle from the car?

How easily did the bearing come out of the spindle?

 

I was able to get 3 of the four bearing bolts but the fourth one was partially blocked by the compression rod. I took the compression rod nut off but it couldn't get around the drive shaft without taking the other two nuts off (steering gear and transverse link). The steering knuckle was just hanging from the bolt at upper link. You might have better luck then I did but I couldn't even get to it with a open ended wrench. You might be able to use a gooseneck 17" hand wrench. Might try that before you take everything apart. I didn't have one but was thinking that would have worked.

The bearing was seized in there pretty good. I have 96,000 on my car and it hasn't moved the whole time. We tried a bearing pull but that wasn't budging it. You might be able to use a slide hammer to work it out. Because the steering knuckle was hanging from the upper link, we were able to turn it around and use an air hammer, hammering around the bearing to force it out, which took less than a minute. If you can get the four bolts holding the bearing in without removing the compression rod, steering gear and transverse link then the bearing pull or slide hammer might work, just will take some muscle.

Also, if your doing this and plan on eventually replacing your compression rod bushings, this is the perfect time to do this work!

Good luck and I hope it goes easy for you. Its easy if you have the tools. If you want to list the tools you have, I could tell you if you need anything else. Also, if you want to take pictures, we could put together a better DIY.

 

I think i have all the tools needed. Biggest concern i have is the removal of the suspension parts.

What tools did you use to remove the lower balljoint and compression rod?

For tools for this I have"

Slide hammer
bearing puller for slide hammer
3-jaw puller
FWD flange puller (don't think i can use this)
two different size tie-rod end tools + tool listed in FSM for steering link
pickle fork
32mm axle socket
various metric sockets and wrenches + breaker bar and torque wrench

I wont have air tools, so using an air hammer is not an option. I've got a breaker bar and pipe...and am a pretty strong guy. If i can't get the bearing out with the slide hammer, i'll take it to my work and press it out. But i'd rather try and avoid this since it will add 1 to 2 hours of cleanup and travel time


My plan of attack was to remove the steering link, and upper balljoint. Then, i was going to use the 3-jaw puller to push the halfshaft out of the hub while pulling the spindle down so i can move the shaft out of the way. Do you feel as if i can remove the halfshaft without removng the compression rod or lower balljoint?

If i got it out, i was going to then rehook the upper balljoint up, and the steering link. Then i would unbolt the 4 bearing bolts.

After that, put the slide hammer with the bearing puller attachment on, and go to town with some heat and candle wax for assistance (candle wax is an old trick that is pretty effective at freeing rusted parts)

I was hoping that would do the job and then installation is reverse.

I'll take a ton of pics when i do it. I just need to find a day where have the entire day. Right it looks like July 23/24 is when i can finally give it hell

 

That might work. If you can get the driveshaft out by removing the upper link, you may be able to access the four bolts. I think you will still need to remove the compression rod. The compression rod is in the way so you cant get a socket on the bolt without removing it. This is why i think if you have a 17mm gooseneck wrench you might be able to get this bolt off without taking the compression rod, steering link, or upper balljoint. I hope that the slide hammer works for you. The bearing puller didnt work for me but it may for you.

It only took me 2 hours. Everything besides getting the bearing out of the steering knuckle took about 1 1/2 hours. Good luck and if you have any more quesions let me know.

 

Thanks man, i think the only thing left to do is to do the job. I'm gonna take a ton of pics when i do this. Hopefully, my plan of attack works