Easiest AT Fluid and Filter change ever! 2004 G35
#46
WARNING!!:!
The Filter (Screen) on these cars MAY be removed like the OP - HOWEVER there are 3 bolt/nut combinations that you must get from the top side of the valve body. You may loosen them and get the screen off, but in order to get proper torque on those 3 nut/bolt you should remove the valve body.
This is the reason that Nissan does not consider this a "serviceable item". It is because you SHOULD remove the entire valve body assembly before replacing the screen. It is the only way to ensure the torque is proper. Last thing you want is to have these bolts loosen up on you at all.
The Filter (Screen) on these cars MAY be removed like the OP - HOWEVER there are 3 bolt/nut combinations that you must get from the top side of the valve body. You may loosen them and get the screen off, but in order to get proper torque on those 3 nut/bolt you should remove the valve body.
This is the reason that Nissan does not consider this a "serviceable item". It is because you SHOULD remove the entire valve body assembly before replacing the screen. It is the only way to ensure the torque is proper. Last thing you want is to have these bolts loosen up on you at all.
#47
#48
It is pretty easy to remove pan bolts.
Get a small drill bit and drill the center of the broken bolt.
Take a small EZ Out, I use Craftsman and back out the broken bolt.
Once the head is broken off there isn't much pressure holding the threads tightly in place.
This would be a different story if the bolt was rusted to the pan when you broke the head off.
Fortunately, with the ATF change your bolts are saturated in ATF so that bolt should twist right out.
Get a small drill bit and drill the center of the broken bolt.
Take a small EZ Out, I use Craftsman and back out the broken bolt.
Once the head is broken off there isn't much pressure holding the threads tightly in place.
This would be a different story if the bolt was rusted to the pan when you broke the head off.
Fortunately, with the ATF change your bolts are saturated in ATF so that bolt should twist right out.
Anyway, I took your advice and tapped it out with no issues. Problem solved! Thanks for the input.
#49
One more thing: Is it normal to have some saturation on the new pan gasket the day after doing this? There's certainly no dripping or drops forming, but there's a light film of oil (i'm assuming tranny fluid) on the outer edges of the pan gasket.
Before anyone asks, the pan surface was completely cleaned before installing the new gasket.
Before anyone asks, the pan surface was completely cleaned before installing the new gasket.
#50
#51
As for the filter: I had no issues with the bolts there, but if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't. There wasn't anything clogging the screen. I would suggest removing and cleaning the pan, though, since there was some sludge that didn't drain.
#53
Hi All,
I am thinking doing a ATF drain/fill on my 2003 G35 Coupe. I read every posts on this thread. I just wonder where or which seller on ebay current sell the ATF with the best price? I think I need 5 quarts? Also, which oil pan does my car needs?
I know the differential uses different oil. What is the recommended oil for change the diff oil? And how much do I need?
I am thinking doing a ATF drain/fill on my 2003 G35 Coupe. I read every posts on this thread. I just wonder where or which seller on ebay current sell the ATF with the best price? I think I need 5 quarts? Also, which oil pan does my car needs?
I know the differential uses different oil. What is the recommended oil for change the diff oil? And how much do I need?
Last edited by ILuvMyG35; 12-02-2011 at 07:30 PM.
#56
The following users liked this post:
Trickstyle (12-28-2011)
#57
kk found it this process seems like its not much harder than changing your engine's oil. I'm also doing my rear diff fluid, i saw the video on that and its disgustingly easy.
sooo...
1. lift car
2. unscrew 19mm bolt and drain ATF from pan to bucket
3. remove bolts from outside of pan(10mm?)
4. replace filter/gasket and clean magnet(s) & crap from bottom of pan
5. replace pan and 19mm drain bolt
6. refill with same amount that was drained
7. lower car and enjoy
is that it?
sooo...
1. lift car
2. unscrew 19mm bolt and drain ATF from pan to bucket
3. remove bolts from outside of pan(10mm?)
4. replace filter/gasket and clean magnet(s) & crap from bottom of pan
5. replace pan and 19mm drain bolt
6. refill with same amount that was drained
7. lower car and enjoy
is that it?
#59
kk found it this process seems like its not much harder than changing your engine's oil. I'm also doing my rear diff fluid, i saw the video on that and its disgustingly easy.
sooo...
1. lift car
2. unscrew 19mm bolt and drain ATF from pan to bucket
3. remove bolts from outside of pan(10mm?)
4. replace filter/gasket and clean magnet(s) & crap from bottom of pan
5. replace pan and 19mm drain bolt
6. refill with same amount that was drained
7. lower car and enjoy
is that it?
sooo...
1. lift car
2. unscrew 19mm bolt and drain ATF from pan to bucket
3. remove bolts from outside of pan(10mm?)
4. replace filter/gasket and clean magnet(s) & crap from bottom of pan
5. replace pan and 19mm drain bolt
6. refill with same amount that was drained
7. lower car and enjoy
is that it?
IMO, if I had to do it again, I wouldn't replace the filter again (it's actually more like a screen). Mine didn't have anything in it, and it's sort of annoying to remove.
Others may disagree, but i'd suggest draining the fluid, dropping/cleaning the pan, replacing the gasket and refilling the fluid.