G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Easiest AT Fluid and Filter change ever! 2004 G35

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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #16  
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From: Murphy, NC
Originally Posted by jimNC
What?
There was banter back and forth with Mustang5L5 about how he was saving some cents buying AFT on Ebay.

He deleted all of his posts.

 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #17  
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From: Murphy, NC
Originally Posted by Mustang5L5
If anyone wants the info on the ebay seller, PM me. I've deleted my posts

Aparently paying $67.50 for 10 bottles isn't worth the effort when you can pay $118 for 12. I don't quite understand that logic, but I won't clutter up this thread anymore tryng to help guys save a few bucks.
There was no reason to delete all of you posts...

All I meant was the Ebay seller was making too many hurdles for the average buyer.
He he gave you such a great deal, that is good. Kudos to you.

For most people, we don't look at the Best Offer.
I personally look at the guy who advertises his best price without me having to send an offer and then try to get a better shipping cost.

That teamed up with the fact that after shopping around 10.00 per quart did not seem like such a bad price to get a case shipped to the house.
I would have spent way more than that if I drove to a Nissan dealership.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 01:19 PM
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I deleted them because I don't want to "ruin" your thread which was helpful in all. Our banter isn't helping much here and kinda felt like it was turining the thread into something it wasn't meant to be. Thats why I deleted my posts.

So, i'll let it go. But thanks for the pics as I think next time i do my fluid I'll do the filter as well. Seeing it before dropping the pan does increase the confidence level before doing the work.

Sorry to get things so off-topic here


BTW, legit question....where did you get the filters from?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 01:28 PM
  #19  
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From: Murphy, NC
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWNX:IT
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #20  
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From: Murphy, NC
I did take some pictures of the inside but this is the only one which was decent.
You can see the sludge on the bottome of the pan and the metal on the magnet.



After cleaning the pan install the bolts through the pan holes and gasket.
Leave out the two for the O2 sensor connectors.
The rubber gasket will hold the bolts so all you have to do is hold the pan to the Transmission and start tightening them.
It is more difficult to line up the holes if you try to do it under the car.


 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 04:02 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by MikeERideWNC
A flush is bad.
Flushing is done through the filler tube. Your transmission will start to leak after a flush.
Ask me how I know... Dodge Sucks!
I have done a fluid exchange done, how the service manual said at the dealer, they did have a machine hooked up just so it puts in the new fluid in exactly at the same rate as the old fluid comes out.

My transmission does not leak or anything.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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I've had bad luck flushing higher mileage transmissioms...especially if service has never been dome. Kinda why I prefer the drain/fill method on my g35. I have 85k and I'm already planning my 4th drain/fill soon.

Fortunately, it's just so very easy to do on these cars. Each time I do it, the fluid, while clean, is slightly darker than the new stuff. My trans has shifted perfectly from day 1 and never shown an issue. (knock on wood)
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #23  
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Yep!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:07 PM
  #24  
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I am planning to do mine again in 10K.
It made a difference with 4.5 quarts.
Mine was never done at 123K miles, it would stick from second to third.

Now it is, oh so smooth.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:29 PM
  #25  
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I know for drain/fill many people have used 4 quarts of atf. https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...id-change.html

did you use 4.5 to compensate for the sludge you removed?
 
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Old Aug 9, 2011 | 09:57 PM
  #26  
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From: Murphy, NC
I drained 4.5 out.
I measured the amount of ATF that came out and that is how much I put back in.
It put it in the middle of the check hot area on the dip stick after I drove it.
I only had minimal drippage on the garage floor.
The sludge was not .5 quarts.

Thinking about it, you would only drain 4 quarts out if not changing the filter.
The drain plug is higher than the bottom of the pan.
This is why you will not get the sludge out of the pan without removing it.
That half quart drains once the bolts are loosen at the front of the pan and the bolts are removed from the rear.

Another good reason to drop the pan and change the filter while doing this service.
You will definately get all the residual crap out of the bottom of the pan.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 12:46 AM
  #27  
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Did you just clean the screen or replace it? Its not really a filter.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 06:21 AM
  #28  
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From: Murphy, NC
I replaced it...

If you go to buy one, I suggest you call it an AT filter.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2011 | 10:25 PM
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Was the filter very dirty? Did you replace the pan gasket or reuse the old one?
 
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Old Aug 11, 2011 | 06:22 AM
  #30  
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From: Murphy, NC
It is not that the filter really gets dirty. The junk it filters just falls back to the bottom of the pan, creating the sludge.
Like posted above it is just a screen.
It is meant to stop the chunks from circulating in the transmission.
If you have never dropped your pan, you might be surprised at the size of some of the metal on the magnets.
If the screen gets old it is possible for a sharp peice of steel to cut through the screen.
Then you have no filtering going on.
I had 123K on my tranny. I did not want to take the chance.
Besides, if you have already dropped the pan, that 10.00 for a new filter is a no brainer.

Have you dropped the gear oil out of the rear end, yet?
How much metal was on that magnet?
There is way more in the transmission.
 
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