New G35 owner, limp mode help - G35Driver - Infiniti G35 & G37 Forum Discussion

G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

New G35 owner, limp mode help

Reply

 
 
 
  #1  
Old 09-12-2011, 09:52 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
New G35 owner, limp mode help

Hey guys, I'm new here. Been creeping around and researching for a bit now before buying my G and it turned around to bite me. I've already searched for days but couldn't find exactly what I was looking for.

Bought a 03 Sedan on Thursday Sept 8, The car intermittently goes into limp mode. Slip, Ebrake, VDC off, Service engine soon, and battery light and sometimes abs light all come on when it revs. Car rev limits at about 2000 rpm and won't go over 20km/h. Had the codes pulled and it comes up with Bank 2 Oxygen sensor and power steering pressure sensor. It's at the dealership right now and they told me the alternator is good, and the battery is good too, and draw test came up good but he's not sure either what could be putting the car into limp mode.

I noticed the car on the 2nd day of owning the car and letting it sit overnight, it was just clicking meaning the starter didn't have enough power to start the motor, I boosted it and it was all good. Drove it around fine and then a couple hours later the battery light and ebrake light comes on and the car goes into limp mode. Take it home and let it sit for a few hours and the car is fine again, no more limp mode. The next day the car is fine all day and at night it goes into limp mode again. I reset the ECU and no good. I limp it to my friend's house and leave it until today (Monday). When I got there early this morning, the car battery was dead again. Ended up towing it to sunridge Nissan where it currently sits. Anyone have any ideas or experience this problem before? Thanks
 

Last edited by jcb522; 09-12-2011 at 10:40 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 09-12-2011, 10:01 PM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 214
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
i actually experienced this with a 2007 Jeep Patriot a month before lease was up, but didnt bother looking into it because, well, lease was up. I would stop the car, turn it off (since i couldnt accelerate otherwise), and just restart it and it would work. wish i could help more than that, but ur definitely not the only one..... maybe worth trying a new battery anyhow to see if that does the trick?
 
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 09-12-2011, 10:04 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
oh when I was limping home the accelerator would let me go up to 2000rpm and other times it wouldn't be responsive and the speed would drop to below 10km/h and just stay at that speed. I would shut the car off and quickly turn it on while I was crawling forward and press the accelerator and then it would let me bring it up to 2000rpm again and repeat. Very frustrating. Imust have restarted the car at least 15 times. The dealership called me earlier saying that the dipstick wasn't in fully and caused oil to spray all over my engine and they suggested an oil change and an engine shampoo. I'm not sure if that would cause the car to go into limp mode.
 

Last edited by jcb522; 09-12-2011 at 10:40 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 09-13-2011, 02:27 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I had this same problem 6 months ago whereby the car would not go past 10-20mph even when the pedal was floored......I drove it in limp mode to my local mechanic who was 15miles away and the minute i got there he took out the sensor that is connected to the air filter. He then purchased a spray from autozone and cleaned the sensor..

The whole procedure took about 10mins and by the time he put back the sensor, my car was back to its full potential..I really wish i knew the name of the sensor he took out but am not sure, although i know it was connected to the air filter in some way...

Hope this helps ....By the way i have an 03 g35 sedan
 
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-13-2011, 02:34 AM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
DARLLL, were you throwing any codes before your car went into limp mode? I think the sensor you're talking about is the MAF sensor. I guess I'll give that a try after the dealership gives me my car back on Wednesday. Thanks
 
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to jcb522 For This Useful Post:
Adro (09-03-2014)
  #6  
Old 09-13-2011, 02:47 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Yes...I had the Service Engine Soon, vdc and slip light on steady....When he cleaned the sensor, vdc and slip light went off and the SES LIGHT was still lit up....So he used a code reader to clear the fault from the ECU and my dash was clear of any codes thereafter
 
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to DARLLL For This Useful Post:
Adro (09-03-2014)
  #7  
Old 09-13-2011, 10:26 AM
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 6,573
Thanks: 0
Thanked 64 Times in 43 Posts
Typically if the car won't rev over 2000rpms, it's means the MAF sensor isn't working. It's a failsafe setup so that the car is still driveable (to an extent) if the MAF dies.
 
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-13-2011, 10:53 AM
nism0b0y's Avatar
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: utah
Posts: 238
Thanked 10 Times in 9 Posts
i have had several issues with cars not liking to start after sitting over night or a few days. in both cases they needed the ground to the battery taken off and scraped with a metal wire brush to clean off the corrosion. as well as scraping where the cable connects to the car. then I never had any problems with starting the car thereafter.
sounds like you need to get a can of sensor cleaner for your mass air flow sensor (maf) and take it home from the dealership before they charge you hundreds of dollars for pointless repairs and testing.
 
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-15-2011, 01:49 AM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
so a little update. Got the car back and the diagnostic said power steering pressure sensor was physically broken and Bank 2 sensor 2 oxygen sensor had a heater circuit open. $1200 later those parts are replaced and a few other things done to my car (non mechanical) and all was good for 4 hours. Then the check engine light comes back on, I continue to drive as close to home as I can and then the car goes into limp mode. I must have drove it a total of 30km in the 4 hours. Limped it back to te dealership which is luckily about 5km from my house. We'll see what the dealership says again tomorrow
 
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-15-2011, 08:05 AM
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: New York, NY
Posts: 214
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
hopefully the solution was included in that $1200. what a rip for a few sensors!
 
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-15-2011, 09:47 AM
Sacch's Avatar
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Brampton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,138
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
I had a similar problem but mine was the camshaft position sensor bank 1, the fix was $354.
 
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-15-2011, 01:05 PM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
go to the dealership this morning to give them my keys to take a look at the car. The battery is so weak that the starter just clicks. I'm not sure what's causing my battery to always drain but I'm assuming it's the bose head unit. Anyways the tech said that he drove my car for 3 days before and couldn't trip the limp mode, guess I'm just lucky. Keep you guys updated
 
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-15-2011, 01:59 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 6,573
Thanks: 0
Thanked 64 Times in 43 Posts
Does the car have any aftermarket electrical systems like an alarm?

What about testing the MAF or replacing it? Like I said, fuel cut at 2000rpms is the indication that the MAF isn't working and it will throw multiple codes/lights, some of which make no sense. Not all MAF sensors just die. Some can be flakey and work and then not work. Simple tests with a voltmeter and inspection can answer a lot of questions. The part is only $90.
 
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-16-2011, 03:17 AM
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 26
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
The car is completely stock. They think my battery is shorting out somehow, even though the battery test says it's okay. They checked the code but it was just for the gas cap apparently. They're keeping the car over night, I'm gonna suggest the MAF sensor tomorrow when I talk to them but a new MAF sensor is 600$ and I don't really want to replace it unless I have to
 
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-16-2011, 12:24 PM
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 6,573
Thanks: 0
Thanked 64 Times in 43 Posts
I think you should consider taking the car elsewhere because the techs seem clueless. They should be looking at the MAF, the throttle body, testing the battery/alternator, etc. Also, their prices are outragous. A powersteering pressure sensor and downstream O2 sensor should be less than $500 installed at a dealership and half that if you do it yourself. Plus, neither of those failed parts will cause your driveability issue or throw those codes.

A MAF sensor is $90 to $120. You don't have to replace the entire housing ($400+), just the sensor itself. Two screws and it slides out. Literally a 5 minute job.

The problem with today's automotive techs is that they lack the ability to trouble shoot. They're simply parts replacers now. That's why it pays greatly to get the Nissan field manual, a volt meter, and tools and do most of this stuff yourself. Your car's problems aren't anything out of the ordinary. The usual fix is one of the following:

New MAF sensor
New throttle body assembly
crank position sensor
vacuum leak


Lastly, have checked for vacuum? A mild vacuum leak, upstream of the MAF sensor can cause these types of problems. My guess if there was a leak, it would be in the intake piping. When you accelerate, the piping shifting around a bit and that's when the leak can happen. Let off the gas, the leak could disappear has the piping pulls back. Perhaps the previous owner/dealership installed a new air filter before the sale and put the intake tract back together incorrectly. I'd take everything out, disassemble, reassemble, and reinstall.
 
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:
You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.

Quick Reply: New G35 owner, limp mode help


Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: