Vacuum leak after stillen intake install-need input
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 549
Likes: 27
From: Gulf Coast
Vacuum leak after stillen intake install-need input
Installed my stillen intake yesterday and noticed a high idle followed by check engine light. Autozone checked it out with their diagnostic tool and found it to be a vacuum leak code. If I remember correctly isn't there only one vacuum line running to the tube? After a brief drive the rpm's settle at 1k. Can I get autozone to clear the code for me? Also should I reset the ecu after the intake install? Also lemme know if there's anything else I should've done (besides buy and install the 5/16" spacer).
if there is a leak you should easily hear/see it. an intake is JUST about as simple as you can get in terms of mods to the engine. Recheck everything you did. People often overlook and forget the small simple things, like plugging in the MAF or making sure the tube is fully seated.
If you cant figure it out then put the stock back on.
If you cant figure it out then put the stock back on.
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 549
Likes: 27
From: Gulf Coast
I think I forgot to put the vacuum line back on after the initial install and it caused the SES light to come on. Now I've polished everything up and reinstalled it but the light is still on. How can I clear this code. I know it's not a big deal really but I just wanna clear it. Is there a way I can do it or can they clear it at autozone or a shop like that?
I've been reading up on resetting the ecu after mods so the ecu can "relearn" the settings or whatever but there's mixed reviews like with everything else. Anyway, how can I clear this service engine soon light?
I've been reading up on resetting the ecu after mods so the ecu can "relearn" the settings or whatever but there's mixed reviews like with everything else. Anyway, how can I clear this service engine soon light?
i had the same problem last month when i did my z tube. I tried to reset the ecu using the pedal method but that proved to be too much for me. I pulled off the negative battery cable over night and that fixed it. The next day the car idled like normal and the light was gone.
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 549
Likes: 27
From: Gulf Coast
i had the same problem last month when i did my z tube. I tried to reset the ecu using the pedal method but that proved to be too much for me. I pulled off the negative battery cable over night and that fixed it. The next day the car idled like normal and the light was gone.
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Easier way to reset the ecu is by the pedal, plus u dont lose any presets. Just give it couple of tries.
Also I have the same problem, the idle is higher than normal(code=po507). I was never able to find the problem. I never had this problem until I kept my car in my driveway for 4weeks while I was on vacation. I have the k&n cone filter with stillen intake for 3years with no problem until recently. Tried to reset the ecu but it would always come back on after awhile, Im going to clean the cone filter this weekend. Maybe that might be the problem.
Also I have the same problem, the idle is higher than normal(code=po507). I was never able to find the problem. I never had this problem until I kept my car in my driveway for 4weeks while I was on vacation. I have the k&n cone filter with stillen intake for 3years with no problem until recently. Tried to reset the ecu but it would always come back on after awhile, Im going to clean the cone filter this weekend. Maybe that might be the problem.
Last edited by jin22gt; Sep 23, 2011 at 07:42 PM.
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 549
Likes: 27
From: Gulf Coast
I pulled the negative cable on my battery for a few mins and it worked. Started the car up after tightening the cable and the light was off. Now I'm wondering if my garage door opener is gonna work when we get home.
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 549
Likes: 27
From: Gulf Coast
On my way to work today I noticed the light was back on. I may go up to autozone and get them to read and clear the code. If not I'll try this pedal thing everyone keeps telling me to try. Anyone have a link to it?
Just have them read and clear the code.
Honestly, for guys who do their own work, theres no excuse not to have an OBD2 scanner. They are under $100 and valuable when it comes to this type of work. You can read and clear codes, see live data, see if the code is about to return, and see if your car is ready for inspection before you head in and hook it up to the computer.
As for the vacuum leaks, here's an old trick. Get a can of carb cleaner. Spray around the intake area with the engine running with small quick bursts. When you find the vacuum leak, the idle will rise up.
Honestly, for guys who do their own work, theres no excuse not to have an OBD2 scanner. They are under $100 and valuable when it comes to this type of work. You can read and clear codes, see live data, see if the code is about to return, and see if your car is ready for inspection before you head in and hook it up to the computer.
As for the vacuum leaks, here's an old trick. Get a can of carb cleaner. Spray around the intake area with the engine running with small quick bursts. When you find the vacuum leak, the idle will rise up.
If you have an ANDROID smart phone/tablet you can buy an bluetooth adapter off ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mini-...item3cbc515142) for like $25
You can buy the TORQUE app for $4.95 and then you can not only read/erase codes but you can monitor data in real time.
I love this option. The ebay adapter is working fine for me so far. I thought I would try the cheap version before spending $100-200 on an adapter. I have the ELM-327.
You can buy the TORQUE app for $4.95 and then you can not only read/erase codes but you can monitor data in real time.
I love this option. The ebay adapter is working fine for me so far. I thought I would try the cheap version before spending $100-200 on an adapter. I have the ELM-327.
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