Dreaded Code P1122
#1
Dreaded Code P1122
Howdy all... I have 2004 G35 sedan, upgrades are Stillen cat back exhaust, cool air intake, aluminum pulleys (stock ratio), thermal spacer between manifold and block, and 1/2 inch spacer on manifold body to increase CFM of manifold.
my car is dead in the water now. here is the long story...
about a two weeks ago the check engine light came on, car ran fine. but i took it to infiniti and had them check it with code reader, they told me it had a code P1122 and they could fix for $1100. $500 for the Electric Throttle Control Actuator and another $600 to reprogram the ECM. I told them no thank you as car fine, and I would look into it. I got my own code reader that hooks up to laptop and cleared the code, no more check engine light. drove it around town for about 60 miles, no still no problem, all is good.
last week I drove to vegas from Los Angeles, nice 300 mile trip, no problems, car ran great, 22mpg. all good. drove it around vegas another 100 miles, (no not cruising for hookers, I am looking to buy another house!)
Now, on my return trip just as I am getting to san Bernardino mountains, the car starts acting like it was possessed by the devil from the exorcist. it would accelerate and decelerate, rapidly, but at the same time progressively losing power. I though I am screwed! gonna have to call AAA for tow. Well I thought just drive a little further and i can reach the summit and cruise it down hill to where the highway patrol station is.. at least i could be warm while waiting for tow truck.
So now I am going down hill... and the car is rolling under gravity power more then throttle. a few minutes of coasting... and problem is gone! car runs fine again, please note, check engine light did NOT come on! But i could not use cruise control either while it was acting up.
Next day, i drive it to breakfast, and bam... same problem, but this time i have to pull over, lose of power was much worse. this time also got the check engine light, and two other lights came on in the middle of instruments. called tow truck as now i could not even roll down street. got it home, checked with code reader and got the P1122 again, cleared but car wont run.
Thinking about replacing Electric Throttle Control Actuator. but do I really need to reprogram the ECM?
Awaiting advice...
my car is dead in the water now. here is the long story...
about a two weeks ago the check engine light came on, car ran fine. but i took it to infiniti and had them check it with code reader, they told me it had a code P1122 and they could fix for $1100. $500 for the Electric Throttle Control Actuator and another $600 to reprogram the ECM. I told them no thank you as car fine, and I would look into it. I got my own code reader that hooks up to laptop and cleared the code, no more check engine light. drove it around town for about 60 miles, no still no problem, all is good.
last week I drove to vegas from Los Angeles, nice 300 mile trip, no problems, car ran great, 22mpg. all good. drove it around vegas another 100 miles, (no not cruising for hookers, I am looking to buy another house!)
Now, on my return trip just as I am getting to san Bernardino mountains, the car starts acting like it was possessed by the devil from the exorcist. it would accelerate and decelerate, rapidly, but at the same time progressively losing power. I though I am screwed! gonna have to call AAA for tow. Well I thought just drive a little further and i can reach the summit and cruise it down hill to where the highway patrol station is.. at least i could be warm while waiting for tow truck.
So now I am going down hill... and the car is rolling under gravity power more then throttle. a few minutes of coasting... and problem is gone! car runs fine again, please note, check engine light did NOT come on! But i could not use cruise control either while it was acting up.
Next day, i drive it to breakfast, and bam... same problem, but this time i have to pull over, lose of power was much worse. this time also got the check engine light, and two other lights came on in the middle of instruments. called tow truck as now i could not even roll down street. got it home, checked with code reader and got the P1122 again, cleared but car wont run.
Thinking about replacing Electric Throttle Control Actuator. but do I really need to reprogram the ECM?
Awaiting advice...
#3
#4
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Townsville, Queensland, Australia
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He is probably asking because the 'ECU reprogram' is very simple and takes about 60sec with the Nissan consult. That equates to a charge of $36,000 per hour..!!
Or you can do the reprogram it yourself by following the instructions in the FSM.
You could even fit the throttle body yourself and save a few more $$.. it's not too hard
Or you can do the reprogram it yourself by following the instructions in the FSM.
You could even fit the throttle body yourself and save a few more $$.. it's not too hard
#5
I will replace the throttle body my self. Easy to do. Its the programing im questioning. If all throttle bodies are built to same manufacture spec. Then it should be a direct swap. Or is each cars ecm programed to taylor fit it to that engine. What is the FSM instructions? Do i need a special programing tool?
#6
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Townsville, Queensland, Australia
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There is a write up on the procedure here. You don't need any special tools other than a stop watch.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...n-p0507-2.html
All standard throttle bodies are basically the same, however, there will always be slight differences in throttle position sensors.
You might be lucky and find you don't need to do any adjustments, but more than likely it will idle high or low, and you will need to run through the above procedure.
You don't really need to do the first procedure (ECU reset), unless you need to clear a MIL/SES.
The last step can be tricky, the timing is critical. This last step is what Nissan use the consult to do, they just simply connect the consult, enter the work support mode and initiate the 'idle air volume learn'.
I you have a lot of trouble getting the manual procedure to work, buy yourself a Blazt-II cable and download the Nissan datascan software, and you can initate the procedure from that (you will need a laptop). It will be much cheaper than $600 (around $120 from memory)
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...n-p0507-2.html
All standard throttle bodies are basically the same, however, there will always be slight differences in throttle position sensors.
You might be lucky and find you don't need to do any adjustments, but more than likely it will idle high or low, and you will need to run through the above procedure.
You don't really need to do the first procedure (ECU reset), unless you need to clear a MIL/SES.
The last step can be tricky, the timing is critical. This last step is what Nissan use the consult to do, they just simply connect the consult, enter the work support mode and initiate the 'idle air volume learn'.
I you have a lot of trouble getting the manual procedure to work, buy yourself a Blazt-II cable and download the Nissan datascan software, and you can initate the procedure from that (you will need a laptop). It will be much cheaper than $600 (around $120 from memory)
#7
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#8
#10
Cleaning the throttle body is exactly what I did after I took the car to dealer. I removed it and cleaned completly with carb cleaner, and the contacts as well. My car is an 04' but it only has 37K on it. the thing is nearly new, still has new car smell. But I do live in southern ca and we have lots of dust in the the air. I dont think cleaning again will have any effect, but its a good idea to try one more time and make sure the connector is secure. Maybe I didnt clean well enough or with the right stuff.
Anyone have tips on cleaning the throttle body or sensor?
Anyone have tips on cleaning the throttle body or sensor?
#11
#12
There is a write up on the procedure here. You don't need any special tools other than a stop watch.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...n-p0507-2.html
All standard throttle bodies are basically the same, however, there will always be slight differences in throttle position sensors.
You might be lucky and find you don't need to do any adjustments, but more than likely it will idle high or low, and you will need to run through the above procedure.
You don't really need to do the first procedure (ECU reset), unless you need to clear a MIL/SES.
The last step can be tricky, the timing is critical. This last step is what Nissan use the consult to do, they just simply connect the consult, enter the work support mode and initiate the 'idle air volume learn'.
I you have a lot of trouble getting the manual procedure to work, buy yourself a Blazt-II cable and download the Nissan datascan software, and you can initate the procedure from that (you will need a laptop). It will be much cheaper than $600 (around $120 from memory)
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...n-p0507-2.html
All standard throttle bodies are basically the same, however, there will always be slight differences in throttle position sensors.
You might be lucky and find you don't need to do any adjustments, but more than likely it will idle high or low, and you will need to run through the above procedure.
You don't really need to do the first procedure (ECU reset), unless you need to clear a MIL/SES.
The last step can be tricky, the timing is critical. This last step is what Nissan use the consult to do, they just simply connect the consult, enter the work support mode and initiate the 'idle air volume learn'.
I you have a lot of trouble getting the manual procedure to work, buy yourself a Blazt-II cable and download the Nissan datascan software, and you can initate the procedure from that (you will need a laptop). It will be much cheaper than $600 (around $120 from memory)
#13
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#14
G35CO,
I got it from link bellow, under $40 hooks up to my net book, easy to use, they have great customer services too... Matt is my contact, good guy.
http://obdsoftware.net/
I got it from link bellow, under $40 hooks up to my net book, easy to use, they have great customer services too... Matt is my contact, good guy.
http://obdsoftware.net/
#15
Sonicii,
I have clicked dozens of links that talk about the blaZt.II OBD II cable, but none can point me to a good link to purchase one. It seams that the offical blaZt.II OBD II website is down, and I cant even buy it through amazon. And short of buying people, ANYTHING can be bought on amazon. Do you know where i can get one of these cables? I havent even looked for the sofetware.
I have clicked dozens of links that talk about the blaZt.II OBD II cable, but none can point me to a good link to purchase one. It seams that the offical blaZt.II OBD II website is down, and I cant even buy it through amazon. And short of buying people, ANYTHING can be bought on amazon. Do you know where i can get one of these cables? I havent even looked for the sofetware.