Clutch Issues..
Clutch Issues..
So as we all know, our clutches are much harder to drive and get used to than most others.. Me, just learning to drive stick, am having a lot of trouble and I find that all of my 1 to 2 are not smooth at all. I want this fixed...
I just read this thread about how someone adjusted the stock clutch
https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...e-new-car.html
Is this a good idea?
Does it actually cause more wear?
And I also know about the RJM Performance clutch bracket..
I have hear a lot of good reviews about this..
Does this cause more wear on the clutch?
Here is a thread..
https://g35driver.com/forums/6290979-post58.html
I just read this thread about how someone adjusted the stock clutch
https://g35driver.com/forums/drivetr...e-new-car.html
Is this a good idea?
Does it actually cause more wear?
And I also know about the RJM Performance clutch bracket..
I have hear a lot of good reviews about this..
Does this cause more wear on the clutch?
Here is a thread..
https://g35driver.com/forums/6290979-post58.html
If people are saying it will have adverse affects i wouldnt do it. Just learn the car. It took me about two months to get it. I thought i would never get it. Worse clutch uptake of any car ive driven...
The trick to 1-2, on the g37 6mt that worked for me was this;
When you get to the speed you're about to shift at,
1) ease up on the throttle almost to the point of no throttle, clutch is still engaged (pedal not depressed)
2) depress clutch pedal to the floor, no throttle at this point
3) allow rpms to drop for a second or so (it's about 1200-1300 rpm differene between 1st gear and 2nd gear for me).
4) shift into 2nd and start to reengage the clutch
5) just before clutch is completely re-engaged, start giving it some throttle. After clutch is fully engaged, apply more throttle to continue acceleration.
Of course, the time it took to read all this, i'd probably be in 4th or 5th gear, so all this happens quite quickly. The main factor is step #1. This slows down the input shaft to the trans and makes it easier for the rpms to drop, given the large ratio difference of the first two gears.
Ultimately, it's all about being at the right engine rpm for the given gear and vehicle speed.
What I've also noticed is that on shifts in the first 3 gears, the rpm differences are much greater than on the last 3 gears. So the time spent letting the rpms drop is slightly higher for those first 3. After driving the car for a few weeks, you should be able to figure out the peculiarities of your trans.
When you get to the speed you're about to shift at,
1) ease up on the throttle almost to the point of no throttle, clutch is still engaged (pedal not depressed)
2) depress clutch pedal to the floor, no throttle at this point
3) allow rpms to drop for a second or so (it's about 1200-1300 rpm differene between 1st gear and 2nd gear for me).
4) shift into 2nd and start to reengage the clutch
5) just before clutch is completely re-engaged, start giving it some throttle. After clutch is fully engaged, apply more throttle to continue acceleration.
Of course, the time it took to read all this, i'd probably be in 4th or 5th gear, so all this happens quite quickly. The main factor is step #1. This slows down the input shaft to the trans and makes it easier for the rpms to drop, given the large ratio difference of the first two gears.
Ultimately, it's all about being at the right engine rpm for the given gear and vehicle speed.
What I've also noticed is that on shifts in the first 3 gears, the rpm differences are much greater than on the last 3 gears. So the time spent letting the rpms drop is slightly higher for those first 3. After driving the car for a few weeks, you should be able to figure out the peculiarities of your trans.
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jbmw002
G35 Sedan V35 2003-06
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Sep 10, 2015 12:54 AM



