G35 Sedan V35 2003-06 Discussion about the 1st Generation V35 G35 Sedan

Question(s) about dyno tuning

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Old Mar 3, 2012 | 10:06 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ray1370
OP, back to the topic, FYI the topic of your thread is different from what you asked in it. To find out your gain with your bolt-on, you do a dyno run first to get your baseline before the mod; after the mods do another run on the same dyne to find out your gain. Different dynos read differently, as discussed previously, however what you need is the gain value. And then, to take full advantage of your mods, you get a tune, which most of us here recommend dyno tune on the same dyno. Then you'll see from baseline how much you really gain from all your mods. Just to clarify.
Oops, yeah, you're right. I just compared the title of the post to the content in it. I should of titled it, "Questions about dynoing in general". Sorry if that confused anyone.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SE5spd
I have a VQ35
I have a 4.2 stroker
I have cams
I have heads
I have intake, exhaust, headers, tune.
I have retainers, springs, all valvetrain, I have 1000CC injectors and a A/M fuel pump
I haz E85

I haz 300.2WHP


Those are not basic bolt ons
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #18  
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From: virginia beach
Originally Posted by SkyWay
Pretty sure there are more than a couple on my350z. I know there are some g coupes that have hit it as well. N/A is more than just bolt ons, you realize that right? You can stroke the engine and use high comp pistons to produce some really good results. There's a video on youtube of a g coupe that stroked his 3.5 to a 4.0 and is putting down 377hp and 347 ft/lb. That would be one hell of a ride!

Now if you were referring to 300 whp N/A on bolt ons, then yes, that is a lot harder to do.
https://g35driver.com/forums/tuner-d...-07-coupe.html

all i need is a light weight one piece drive shaft and i can break 300 easy.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2012 | 02:21 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by shane11
https://g35driver.com/forums/tuner-d...-07-coupe.html

all i need is a light weight one piece drive shaft and i can break 300 easy.
OP has a base AT btw.

Dyno runs cost about $80 for 4 to 5 runs, and if there's any local dyno event it might get cheaper, check the dyno section and local section for the shops around you.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:11 AM
  #20  
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From: Sherman Oaks CA
I made 304 on a dyna-pac NA

The WHP numbers dont really mean much ,Its all about the traction
 

Last edited by CandlestickPark; Mar 5, 2012 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Clean up
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:16 AM
  #21  
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From: Sherman Oaks CA
06 5AT
Engine/Drivetrain Modifications: 1. Aem cold air
2.3/8" MD Plenum Spacer
3.Grounding Gear 10 wire set
4.Stillen ceramic headers
5.Stillen engine damp
6.Motordyne ART Pipes
7.Stillen Generation 2 Cat back/with custom Xpipe & Muffler (Low Rasp)
8.Blox Throttle body spacer
9.Osirus
12.Rev limiter bumped from 6,750 to 7,400
13.Oil catch can
14.NGK Iridium
16. Magna Flow Resonated Xpipe
17. Magna Flow Resonated dual in /dual out Muffler
18. 100 octane performance map
19. Ported and sandblasted lower plenum
20. Ported and sandblasted lower runners
 
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:16 AM
  #22  
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From: NORCAL/SOCAL
Originally Posted by butkiss1
I made 304 on a dyna-pac NA

The WHP numbers dont really mean much ,Its all about the traction
304? when did you get redynod?
 

Last edited by CandlestickPark; Mar 5, 2012 at 11:25 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2012 | 01:24 AM
  #23  
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About 2 months after the dyno day when I did the ported and sand blasted lower runners..
 
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